How long will my bad tie rod last? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-11-2005, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
 
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How long will my bad tie rod last?

I dont have the money to fix it right now unless i borrow some from the parents. Its clunking about once a day right now and started clunking about a month ago. She needs to take me to florida in 2 weeks and i hope she makes it
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-12-2005, 06:50 AM
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Who knows! It might last 10 minutes, it might last 10 months.

But you have to ask yourself this... Do you feel lucky?!? Well do ya?!?

How much can it cost to repair a tie rod?! $20 for the tie rod, a couple of wrenches, and a pickle fork?

It only connects your steering wheel to the front tires, so I guess its not really that important...

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-12-2005, 07:31 AM
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Definitely not worth the risk. If you are traveling to Florida, and it lets go, who knows what could happen. And if other people are injured because of it, you will pay for that tie-rod for a very long time.

As stated above, cheap and quick to replace.

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-12-2005, 08:42 AM
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Don't you be comin' down here to Florida with suspension components about to fail and cause wrecks and kill people and back up traffic!

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-12-2005, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
 
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i was informed that it could not be done myself. If it is possible to be done myself ill have it done by the end of the week. Im pretty handy with front end suspension work.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-12-2005, 09:09 PM
 
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It can be done in a driveway.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-13-2005, 12:49 PM
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In under 30 minutes

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-13-2005, 04:00 PM
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Tie Rod End


Steering Gear Installed


Removal

1. Remove and discard the cotter pin and nut from the worn tie rod end (3A130).

2. Disconnect tie rod end from LH front wheel knuckle (3K185)/RH front wheel knuckle (3K186), using Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D or equivalent.

3. Holding the tie rod end with a wrench, loosen the tie rod end jam nut.

4. Note the depth to which the tie rod end was located by using the jam nut as a marker. Grip the tie rod end with a pair of suitable pliers, and remove the tie rod end.


Installation

1. Clean the tie rod end threads.

2. Thread the tie rod end to the same depth as the removed tie rod end.

3. Place the tie rod end into the LH front wheel knuckle/RH front wheel knuckle. Ensure front wheels are in the straight ahead position.

4. Install a new nut on the tie rod end. Tighten the nut to 53 N-m (39 lb-ft), and continue tightening the nut to align the next castellation of the nut with the cotter pin hole in the stud. Install a new cotter pin.

5. Set toe to specification. Refer to «Section 04-00». Tighten the jam nut to 48-68 N-m (35-50 lb-ft).


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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-14-2005, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
 
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grrrrr... i have the 95 cd someone just misinformed me at the time when i did my ball joints. Thanks... itll def be done by the end of next weekend so that i wont kill anybody in FL. Rockauto and moog parts I assume?
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-20-2005, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
 
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put the new ones one and im still getting a different creaking... at least i have some peace of mind now thought knowing that anything that could break and cause me to loose control is replaced. This did fix the tie rod creak though... the new creak is really quiet so ill probably just let it go. Thanks for the help guys. Too bad i had to get 2 alignments instead of just one to sold these problems.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 11:26 PM
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 11:28 PM
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so let me get this straight....you have enough paper to go to florida from misery, but dont have enough to fix the car......dont bother, when it lets go and you total the car, then think about it.




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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 11:47 PM
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Are you needing to replace the Tie Rod? Or the Tie Rod end? they are different parts and have different procedures to replace.


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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-06-2007, 01:03 AM
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well, it's about 2 years too late don't you think so?

My daily job is to fry rice for my customers....

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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-06-2007, 01:32 AM
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LOL I gotta start paying attention to the dates on these things!


1997 Thunderbird Sport
Low Miles
Wifes Car
destined to remain stock

1997 T-Bird GT 4.6
80 MM Mustang GT MAF - P&P'd Mustang GT TB and Intake Plenum - PI Intake manifold - PI Heads
Mark VIII Torque Converter - J-Modded 4R70W transmission - Mark VIII Aluminum Driveshaft - 3.73 gears
PBR Brake Calipers - Eibach Springs - KYB Shocks
'89 SuperCoupe front and rear sway bars
SCT Chip programmed by Lonnie Doll
255/50/16 Falken Ziex ZE-512's
True Dual exhaust with Magnaflow DI/DO muffler
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-06-2007, 01:41 AM
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-17-2007, 12:55 PM
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This needed to be bumped again for those who didn't catch the fact that this thread is over 2 years old now....... I say don't replace the tie rods, let 'em break!!!!
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