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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-24-2005, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
 
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rear end links.

How hard is to change the rear sway bar end links. can i just change the bushings that go from the link to the sway bar? what tools of what sized will i need to do the job? thanks for the help guys. Jess
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-24-2005, 06:38 PM
 
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Well since you live in oklahoma theres probably not much rust on your bird but theres a nut on the buttom that has to be taken off. Yes you can replace those bushings but i'm not sure if you can just buy them with out buying a whole new endlink. Also you have to remove the upper part of the link thats on the sway bar.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-24-2005, 07:07 PM
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On mine, it was the bushings in the upper end that were rotten and causing a bit of a rattle. I bought the poly kit from MN12 Performance to replace mine, and while the bar bushings are a tight fit, and they they to be greased periodically (I put grooves and grease fittings in mine, and hit them with a shot of grease at every oil change), it's a nice, fairly inexpensive upgrade.

97 LX, 4.6, Dynomax catback, Mustang MAF/intake tube and Aviator throttle body, Xcalibrator2 by Lonnie at BOC, 180 t-stat, Super Coupe wheels with 235/60/16's, Kenny Brown strut tower brace, Tokico Blues, Eibach Pro-kit, some strategically placed MN12 Performance polyurethane pieces, '02 Grand Marquis transmission

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-24-2005, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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what kind of tools will in need? i dont have alot of tools and i hate getting half way into a job and having to go buy something so what size of wrenchs and sockets adn such will i need? Thanks agian guys. and ohh yeah there is a fair amount of rust the car is an ex- texas highway patrol car. thats waht attracted me to is the motor and tranny are great but the suspension is shot. but agian thanks for the help guys. Jess
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-24-2005, 10:31 PM
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Basic metric hand tools (sockets/wrenches, I think 13 and 15 mm were all I needed), possibly a c-clamp and a third hand to hold the sway bar bushing brackets against the subframe (if you replace them).

Don't crush the lower end link bushings too much. The upper bushings use a metal sleeve to prevent it.

It's a little easier with the rear wheels off. May as well see what else needs work, too.

And a lot of PB Blaster to free the rusted parts.

97 LX, 4.6, Dynomax catback, Mustang MAF/intake tube and Aviator throttle body, Xcalibrator2 by Lonnie at BOC, 180 t-stat, Super Coupe wheels with 235/60/16's, Kenny Brown strut tower brace, Tokico Blues, Eibach Pro-kit, some strategically placed MN12 Performance polyurethane pieces, '02 Grand Marquis transmission

Submariners do it deeper...
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-24-2005, 11:31 PM Thread Starter
 
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thanks guys. its gonna cost me like 60 bucks for parts plus what ever for tools but you guys still rock. oyur the only forums that i know of that will tell you the size of tools you need. Thanks agian, Jess
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