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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-01-2005, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
 
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Steerin Rack

Well had the car looked at today, and turns out its my steering thats makin all the noise, as well as the wheel, bearings. Guy said it would cost about 1500 for them to do it. What does it take to change this? I can prob get a used unit easily, just dont know whats involved in doin this.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-01-2005, 08:29 PM
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Well I just got a rack for 120.00 plus 100.00 for the core charge. Swapping the rack out isnt too hard of a job to do. The hard part is getting to the two lines on top of the rack!!! Its a pita!!! Also when pulling your steering shaft off mark it cause if you dont your steering wheel will be way off center.>>
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-01-2005, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks, 120 (prob about 200 here) isnt too bad, less than the ball joints like I thjought it was. Ill check the parts stores and wreckers and see what I can come up with and get it all done. May take till next week though. I know this sounds like a stupid question, but is this anything I shoul worry about I drive the car everyday to work and am prob headin out on the highway this weekend.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-01-2005, 10:15 PM
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Are all n12 racks the same or is there some with quicker ratio?

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-02-2005, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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Heres a total noob question. What exactly causes the rack to make the clunking noise, Im just curious I thought that maybe there was a bad seal and the fluid was leakin causing it to run dry, but the fluid is still right where it should be.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-02-2005, 08:07 PM
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If the rack is leaking you will be able to see it easily. Mine started to leak, the right seal went south, and it left a quarter size drop of fluid on the ground. So if the level is staying where it should that should be fine. The clunking noise could be ball joints, and strut rod bushings. Check those first. To check the balljoints, lift one tire of the ground and grab it at 9 and 3 o'clock positions. Shake it side to side. If there is play its the lower balljoint. Do the same but at 12 and 6 0'clock positions and move it in and out. Once again if there is play your upper balljoints are bad. Lastly, will the wheels on the ground and the emergency brake on, see if you can push the wheel in a foward motion, if so you need strut rod bushings. Hope this is of some help...
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-02-2005, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
 
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Ball joints are fine I checked those myself again, all the shop said was teh rack and wheel bearings.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-03-2005, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
 
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OK seems the guy at the shop is a complete jackass. Took the tires off to get a good look at the rack, and I couldnt see any leaks, so started pushin and pulling everything to figure out what is goin on, the problem is just the tension strut bar bushing is shot on one side.

Last edited by Blue LS; 06-04-2005 at 12:42 PM.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-04-2005, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
 
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Changed the bushings (holy **** 60 bucks!!!) and even without driving it you can see the front end is tighter. What was left of the old bushings was about the thickness of a quarter.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-20-2005, 11:00 AM
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OK, here's a question that I should know the answer to, but I don't, so can y'all help me out?

When you replace the rack, first off, what's the best replacement to get. I have a Ford reman in there right now and after 2 years, the seals leak.

Second, does the rack come with inner tie rod ends and I just need to buy outer tie rod ends, or do I have to buy them all?

Does the rack come with new bushings? If not, what are the best to get?

Thanks!

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-01-2005, 04:29 PM
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Your rack will come with everything except outer tie rod ends. As for what kind I picked up a Cardone rack and have had no problems with it. You could go with a new ford unit but in my opinion its no better. Also flush the system when you put your new one in. It will save you a lot of trouble later.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-01-2005, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
 
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You may not have to replace the rack, try some of the additives for PS leaks, I know most people say to stay away from mechanics in a can, but the stuff worked wonders on my dads coworkers car, two years after putting it in the seals are still holding up perfectly.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-06-2005, 07:35 AM
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I have a parts car that I was going to remove and rebuild the rack to put on my SC. After looking around, it appears that a 24mm Deep socket is required to hold the head of the bolt while you turn the nut. Can someone verify this for me?

Glen "RustyUL" Weldon

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-15-2005, 04:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Blue LS
Changed the bushings (holy **** 60 bucks!!!) and even without driving it you can see the front end is tighter. What was left of the old bushings was about the thickness of a quarter.

What bushings? What is the tension strut bar bushing? My front end is loose and I hope that may be the/part of the fix.

Thanks!!!!!

Jim

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