strut rod bushing at frame, how to pull out? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-14-2005, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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strut rod bushing at frame, how to pull out?

fighting with it for 2 hours just now, can't pull it out. how can i pull it out? it won't bulge. will continue tommorrow.

anyone have any suggestion? i've try pry at the front and back but those piece is on there good. already half a can of pb blaster gone through it. i think the 2 metal sleeve are fuse together, any idea how to unfuse it?

thanks.

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-15-2005, 11:40 AM
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Over on MN12Performance.com, under his front end rebuild, he mentions that you have to cut a lip off to get the ferrel out. This could be your problem.
Here's a link. About 2/3 down the page for strut rod instructions.

Rob

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-15-2005, 05:18 PM
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I had to grind the lip off of one side on my car. The other one came right off.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-15-2005, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for the help.

now the passenger side front strut rod nut strip at the end, i'm cutting the end of the strut arm out with the tread on it.it has about 3/4" thread left on it. can i reuse the stut rod arm still? it still has suffient thread on it.

thanks.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-15-2005, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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this job is start to pissed me off. got the driver side done and now this passenger side are throwing me off. both side i'm having hard time getting the nut from the strut rod to lower control arm out. driver side took me few hours and now this passenger side i can't get it to bulge. i'll be taking the arm to the shop tommorrow to let them take it out for me.

GGGRRRRRRHHHHH!!!!!!

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-15-2005, 10:19 PM
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Can't help you on this one. My impact wrench took that nut right off...
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-16-2005, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by girdnerg
Over on MN12Performance.com, under his front end rebuild, he mentions that you have to cut a lip off to get the ferrel out. This could be your problem.
Here's a link. About 2/3 down the page for strut rod instructions.

Rob
Was this the problem or something else? I need to know because I'm about to start this myself.
Thanks,
Rob

02 AL PI 4.6L, 02 GT MAF and air box, SCT tune by lonnie.
2.25" true duals, no cats, Borla XS mufflers.
96 trans with 300HP + gear change J-mod, Mark VIII TC, & Hayden 30K GVW cooler.
Solid Rubber engine and tranny mounts. Polly front-end, tranny crossmember, and IRS bushings.
3.73 TL, 93 Mark VIII DS. Tokico Blues all around.
PBR dual piston calipers in front, Rear Disc Brake Swap.
97 console. Cooper 225/60/16s.
14.874 @ 93.56 with 3.27 before 3.73 upgrade
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-16-2005, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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sort out those problem. now in the middle of bolting everything up. i got a new strut rod from junk yard because the passenger side strut rod nut at the lca just wouldn't bulge. got a new nut with washer to go with it. it's not a hard job. i use 2 jaw puller to pull out the bushing. those nuts are driving me crazy. i'm a small guy and i don't have enough muscle to break those nuts off even with big breakers bar. most of the problem is rusted out threads.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-16-2005, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casper
fighting with it for 2 hours just now, can't pull it out. how can i pull it out? it won't bulge. will continue tommorrow.

anyone have any suggestion? i've try pry at the front and back but those piece is on there good. already half a can of pb blaster gone through it. i think the 2 metal sleeve are fuse together, any idea how to unfuse it?

thanks.
What did you end up doing for this? Did you have to cut the ferral like in the link I gave you or something else?
Thanks,
Rob

02 AL PI 4.6L, 02 GT MAF and air box, SCT tune by lonnie.
2.25" true duals, no cats, Borla XS mufflers.
96 trans with 300HP + gear change J-mod, Mark VIII TC, & Hayden 30K GVW cooler.
Solid Rubber engine and tranny mounts. Polly front-end, tranny crossmember, and IRS bushings.
3.73 TL, 93 Mark VIII DS. Tokico Blues all around.
PBR dual piston calipers in front, Rear Disc Brake Swap.
97 console. Cooper 225/60/16s.
14.874 @ 93.56 with 3.27 before 3.73 upgrade
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-16-2005, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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i didn't cut out the ferrul. i use a 2 jaw puller for it.

finish the swap 5 minutes ago. go for a test drive and then clunk, jack up the car again and found out the driver side lower control arm bolt to the frame(the one that adjust the alignment) loosen out and the control arm wobling while test driving. tighten it up again and its all fine now. will do alignment tommorrow.

My daily job is to fry rice for my customers....

My Bird is the nicest looking in Midland, Michigan

CarDomain Page

Every success are only archieveable through many mistake and that's the learning process.

Anyone looking for EBC Greenstuff front pads for non-sport front brakes?
brand new for $70 bucks shipped to your door within 48 states within United States.
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