strut rod bushings solved front end shakes - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-19-2005, 12:47 AM Thread Starter
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strut rod bushings solved front end shakes

Firstly, I'd like to say replacing the strut rod bushings following the factory manual does not work if you cannot pry the spindle/strut assembly far back enough.

I had to drop the LCA at the frame and lower strut to get the strut rod out. Then comes the second kick in the nuts, the rear bushings have a long ferrule that needs to be cut to get out, another 30mins of dremel work. The bushings on the frame side has a lip in front that needs to be separated, that took some tough smashing with a flat tip screw driver and mallet.

Put in the Moog replacement bushings and my front end shakes are gone!

Here are some pics of the f-ed up LCA side bushing.

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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-19-2005, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heavy Metal
Hopefully the Moogs will last you but if you do a search here you will see that they have a problem with splitting over time. Thus the reason I went back with Ford OEM.
i had three cracked driver side bushings in less than 2 years and on my second moog passenger side, since it cracked again three weeks ago. yeah, they suck. Ill be going back to OEMs also.




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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-19-2005, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
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The question is.....does anyone from TCCoA highlight to Moog about the early failures of their strut rod bushings?
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-19-2005, 09:57 PM
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Which ones are cracking on you guys the Frame or the control arm mounted ones?

I bellieve they need a good dose of grease put on em (did on mine) because they need to twist and because they are made of a harder compound which is what causes the cracking
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-20-2005, 07:33 AM
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I bellieve they need a good dose of grease put on em




Negitive ghost rider, they will fail in a short time.

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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-20-2005, 07:44 AM
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I think my moog units came with a larger washer than is pictured there. Do you remember what you torqued those to? I know I've read about quite a few people having that problem. I didn't read about the issue untill I had already replaced all of mine with moog bushings. They have been on for a year without problems now but I'm still concerned. How long did they actually hold up before they failed on you?

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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-20-2005, 08:04 AM
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How long did they actually hold up before they failed on you?
A couple months but my suspension is extremely tight and I'm sure the 4 pot cal's put a hurting on em. Trust me dude they will fail and it can be a dangerous affair if it's at the wrong place/time.



-Scott
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-20-2005, 08:09 AM
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did moog give you a refund or anything like that?

95 LSC- Mods: 2.5 dual exhaust, 3.73s, 17x9 cobra R Rims, SCT dyno tune, MM driveshaft, 249 rwhp/ 268 ft lb tq
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-20-2005, 10:50 AM
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I just installed the same bushings and mine did have a larger washer than what was pictured. I'm also sorry to say that even with LCA replacement, my vibration is still present even with repeated tire (New Khumo ECSTA 711s) balancing on a Hunter DSP9700. Up to about 77 or so it is good, but then from 80 and up, the vibration in the steering wheel is very annoying.

I do have a steering rack that is leaking through the seals, but I don't believe that would cause the vibration...

Sure hope I don't have problems with the strut bushings.

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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-20-2005, 04:38 PM
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The Torque of the bolt shouldnt matter because it stops on the sleeve anyway,, I personally think the sleeve should be designed a tad bit longer as the harder Moog/Aftermarket bushings dont like to compress like the rubber units.

I was thinking what about a Steering shaft Attachment in its place,, its designed to spin and swivel.. just not sure if it would be worth all the trouble and if it would be strong enough.
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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-20-2005, 06:10 PM
 
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Why not just replace it with a poly one instead of going with OEM or another rubber one? It won't effect ride quality and will last a lot longer.
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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-20-2005, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grims95SC
Why not just replace it with a poly one instead of going with OEM or another rubber one? It won't effect ride quality and will last a lot longer.
no one makes rubber ones but OEM. Moog's are thermoplastic. The ones mn12perf includes in their kit is OE rubber. Poly isnt readily available.




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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-20-2005, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95BLKLSC
did moog give you a refund or anything like that?
the store i got mine from offered a free replacement. Moog hasnt given me ****.




"Booyah". Stu Scott.
1996 Braincoated, all Aluminum PI powered and obscenely loud Pearl White Tbird [email protected] AKA Dyrdek.
2013 Black on black FX2 Supercrew Ecoboost F150. Roll onto the scene with the ceiling missing.
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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-20-2005, 07:04 PM
 
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Quote:
* Tie Rod Boots
* Front & Rear Strut Rod bushings (new ferrules & 7/8" washers included)
* Front Sway Bar bushings 1 1/16"
* Rack & Pinion bushings (5/8" washers included)
* Lower Control Arm bushings
* Upper Control Arm bushings
* Shock Bump Stop bushings
* Installation instructions
Ya can get them from SCP as part of a package but I'm sure you could also talk to them and just get certain parts of it.
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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-20-2005, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grims95SC
Ya can get them from SCP as part of a package but I'm sure you could also talk to them and just get certain parts of it.

i just want to know who makes them for SCP. ill talk to the manufacturer before the middleman.




"Booyah". Stu Scott.
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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-20-2005, 10:04 PM
 
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just out of curiosity, radius arm bushing = strut rod bushing???
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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-20-2005, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big_Irish
just out of curiosity, radius arm bushing = strut rod bushing???
roger that.




"Booyah". Stu Scott.
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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-21-2005, 07:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95BLKLSC
did moog give you a refund or anything like that?
Didn't even try. Both Scott and I just went ahead and got them from Richie at SCP. We both have the big AADCO bars and very stiff suspension set up. Scott's got the 4 piston brakes and I've got 2 piston Cobra brakes, so it shoud be a good test to see how they hold up. It's been about 6 or so months now for Cougie and they're still in one piece. It remains to be seen how they'll hold up on GB.

I don't know if they are Poly or not, they are supposed to be. I can tell you that the SCP bushings are way softer than the Moogs. I compared them. The Moogs are hard as a rock and that's why they split.. they don't give enough. I'm hoping that the SCP bushings will be a happy medium between the OEM rubber and the Moogs. Hard enough to last and give a good stiff ride, but soft enough to give, rather than split.

-mike

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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-21-2005, 12:29 PM
 
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mine lasted about 3 months but after i isntalled them i got rid of most of my suspension problems.
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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-21-2005, 11:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96 GoldBird
Didn't even try. Both Scott and I just went ahead and got them from Richie at SCP. We both have the big AADCO bars and very stiff suspension set up. Scott's got the 4 piston brakes and I've got 2 piston Cobra brakes, so it shoud be a good test to see how they hold up. It's been about 6 or so months now for Cougie and they're still in one piece. It remains to be seen how they'll hold up on GB.

I don't know if they are Poly or not, they are supposed to be. I can tell you that the SCP bushings are way softer than the Moogs. I compared them. The Moogs are hard as a rock and that's why they split.. they don't give enough. I'm hoping that the SCP bushings will be a happy medium between the OEM rubber and the Moogs. Hard enough to last and give a good stiff ride, but soft enough to give, rather than split.

-mike

the blue moogs are thermoplastic......the cell structure is way too random and not polarized enough to be stable, which is why they split. They are also very suseptable to mineral based fluids like ATF/PS fluid.




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post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-22-2005, 08:40 AM
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Anyone know about the Autozone ones? I bought them because of the blue Moog splitting problem. These Autozone ones are black and seem kinda hard.

Good, bad, or what?

Thanks,
Rob

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post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-22-2005, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by girdnerg
Anyone know about the Autozone ones? I bought them because of the blue Moog splitting problem. These Autozone ones are black and seem kinda hard.

Good, bad, or what?

Thanks,
Rob

those should be made by TRW and are supposed to be rubber. Same as OEM.




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post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-22-2005, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. FrankenCougie
A couple months but my suspension is extremely tight and I'm sure the 4 pot cal's put a hurting on em. Trust me dude they will fail and it can be a dangerous affair if it's at the wrong place/time.



-Scott
So what happens when and if they fail completly? Curious minds want to know.

Even if you fall on your face, you're still moving forward.
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post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-22-2005, 07:19 PM
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So what happens when and if they fail completly? Curious minds want to know.
I jammed on my brakes one day and the bushing on both sides blew right through the nuts (the guy who installed them put the washers on the wrong side - duh). When that happened there was a horrible "BANG"....


Once that happens the front suspension is no longer anchored and can free-float forward and back at will. Every time you step on the brakes, both front wheels and suspension travel forward and back. Like Scott said above..

It ain't pretty..

-mike

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post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-22-2005, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96 GoldBird
I jammed on my brakes one day and the bushing on both sides blew right through the nuts (the guy who installed them put the washers on the wrong side - duh). When that happened there was a horrible "BANG"....


Once that happens the front suspension is no longer anchored and can free-float forward and back at will. Every time you step on the brakes, both front wheels and suspension travel forward and back. Like Scott said above..

It ain't pretty..

-mike
Scary, for sure! But can you stop the car without a crash?

Even if you fall on your face, you're still moving forward.
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post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-22-2005, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Sideoiler
Scary, for sure! But can you stop the car without a crash?
I'm not sure what would happen at speed if they let go, or in a high speed turn.

When mine blew out I was going in a straight line in a controlled stop, and after they blew I drove the car around to find a lift to see what the heck happened. Every time I hit the brakes, there was a loud klunk, but I was able to drive, stop, turn. I just wouldn't suggest going too far or too fast. With the whole front suspension loose and moving around, I'm pretty sure other stuff would start breaking down in short order.

Best remedy... replace them before they blow out...

-mike

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BLOWN: Renegade NPI heads; Renegade shortblock; Intercooled T-Trim; some other stuff
Pump Gas Numbers - 547 rwhp / 525 ft.lbs; Best Time - 11.388 @ 118.68 (Commerce, GA - November 2007)
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post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-23-2005, 09:57 PM
 
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Sorry guys,,,still trying to get this right. I have the Moog in front of me and the washers supplyed completely cover the bushing. 96 Goldbird's blew out because the wrong (oe) washers were installed in the wrong position???
So are we now agreeing that with the correct Moog supplied gold anodised washers installed they should not "blow out"? As in the photo Dr. Frankincougie posted?

I'm no expert but with the correct supplied washer (gold) how could the bushings possibly "blow out"?

Just want to do it right the first time, thanks all!

Dave
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post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-23-2005, 10:10 PM
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You can do it right and still have a failure (or 10).
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=44814

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post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-23-2005, 10:35 PM
 
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tbirdbrain, I've read your link, thanks for the input! The bushings in my Moog kit are infact 2.75 long, not 3". It seems like a couple people have posted bad luck with Moog and a couple have posted no problems whatsoever, even autoxing!
So in fear of your problems happening to me I guess I will return the Moog and get the much more expensive OE as it seems it will be cheaper in the long run.

Dave
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