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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-13-2005, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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Ball joint replacement

Hey guys i just gt back from my mechanic and he said the squeeking my car was making is because the front ball joints are shot which thats what i figured it would have been. Now my question is how hard is it to fix and replace yourself. This place was gonna charge me $750 to do this but i heard it can be done by yourself from reading it on here. Can you guys give me some info and how much im getting myself into. Thanks guys i can always count on your responses.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-13-2005, 03:59 PM
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RUN, QUICKLY from that shop!! They are rapeing you. EVEN if you replaced all four ball joints, it could be done for much less. Now, is it the upper or lower ball joint? Uppers- you have to replace the control arm because the ball joint is a part of it. I had an upper replaced at Pep Boys for $173.00. Lower- a new ball joint can be pressed into the lower control arm. Again, I had mine done at the Boys for about $130.00. Granted, if you have the tools to do it, and are knowledgable with front ends, Ours are very easy. I have a bad back, so I have to pay for the work now. Maybe you don't . By all means, run from that shop!!!!! (unless the parts are Gold)
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-13-2005, 04:10 PM
 
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just buy the whole control arm assys with ball joints pre installed. orielly's has them for 70 a piece for uppers and 60 a piece for lowers (ball joint pre installed). theyre easy to install and you dont have to screw around with installing ball joints. 260 dollars total.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-13-2005, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncaged 94
I had an upper replaced at Pep Boys for $173.00. Lower- a new ball joint can be pressed into the lower control arm. Again, I had mine done at the Boys for about $130.00.
Is that price per a side or for both. Thanks guy for the info. You saved me big bucks. But i will look into the kit and replacing thm myself. Thanks Again

Bryan

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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-13-2005, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Insomniac96
orielly's has them for 70 a piece for uppers and 60 a piece for lowers (ball joint pre installed). 260 dollars total.
What is oriellys. Is it an online parts store Thanks man.
Bryan

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-13-2005, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94TbirdV8
What is oriellys. Is it an online parts store Thanks man.
Bryan
A simple google search reveals..............

O'Reilly Automotive, Inc. is one of the largest specialty retailers of automotive aftermarket parts, tools, supplies, equipment and accessories in the United States, serving both the do-it-yourself and professional installer markets. Founded in 1957 by the O'Reilly family, the Company operated 1,286 stores within the states of Alabama, Arkansas, Florida, Georgia, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Mississippi, Missouri, Nebraska, North Carolina, Oklahoma, South Carolina, Tennessee, Texas and Virginia as of March 31, 2005.

Plus this link !

http://www.oreillyauto.com/B2C/vehicle.ecatalog

x
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x

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-13-2005, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
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Thank man for the info.

Bryan

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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-13-2005, 08:11 PM
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-13-2005, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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Only problem is that oriellys doesn't have online ordering. The nearst store is in the panhandle or florida and thats like 8 hours away. But ill find a way to get my hands on them. Thanks Guys

Bryan

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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-13-2005, 08:16 PM
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If you aren't in a rush, check Dan Newman's prices also.

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=60143

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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-13-2005, 08:43 PM
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Hey bud. That price is for the replacement of one side.
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-13-2005, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94TbirdV8
Only problem is that oriellys doesn't have online ordering. The nearst store is in the panhandle or florida and thats like 8 hours away. But ill find a way to get my hands on them. Thanks Guys

Bryan
brian, go to the bennett auto in boca, the one out east near A1A and FAU. The arms are about 65$ each. you and pops should be able to knock em out in 2 hours max. grab a haynes, it has a decent walk throgh on how to do it.




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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-14-2005, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Great Obucina
brian, go to the bennett auto in boca, the one out east near A1A and FAU. The arms are about 65$ each. you and pops should be able to knock em out in 2 hours max. grab a haynes, it has a decent walk throgh on how to do it.
Thanks Joe for the help man. Ill go and check it out soon and get working o it I know i can always count on the Florida Crew to help me out too. Thats why i like having a group of guys down here with the same car to help each other out. Thank you every one for the info, you saved me a bunch of "chi-ching".
Bryan

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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-14-2005, 12:12 PM
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-14-2005, 12:21 PM
 
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I just finished this job a couple days ago. Me and my oncle did it in his garage, both sides, in under 4 hours. Here's the parts list and price:

Both L and R lower control arms w/ Balljoints (ebay) : 150
Strut rod bushings (rockauto.com) : 60
LCA to strut bolts and nuts (Local Ford Dealer) : 40

So 250 Canadian total in parts plus 50 for alignment afterwards. The biggest thing was having the right tools. We had a compressor w/ impact wrench, die grinder with cutting blades and a ball joint seperator. If your Bird has alot of rust and miles it's a PITA to take off the strut to LCA bolts, we just cut em and put new ones. The strut rod bushings and sleeve were also a pain. Overall it's not a hard job at all, but I don't think it's as easy as some say it is. I'd say do it yourself if you have some mechanical experience and patients. Good luck...
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-14-2005, 12:24 PM
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I'm not sure how their prices compare, but you could check out RockAuto.com too, thats where I got most of my stuff. Their current discount code can be found here.

Also, I dunno if Bennett offers a lifetime warranty on their control arms, but I know at least AutoZone does and I'm sure other part stores around do too. That’s where I got my upper control arms.
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-14-2005, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Aaron for the web page im gonna go and check it out now.I need to get this done somtime soon because i know that this problem could become dangerous and the last thing i need is to ruin my baby. Thanks again guys.
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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-29-2005, 04:10 PM
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Bought my UCA's (TRW brand) at Advance for $61.88 each. With tax, it came to $131.19. I did not have any problems breaking loose the nuts, just had problems accessing the ones on the body (particuarly the firewall end on the driver's side-master cylinder in the way, just as others have complained about). However, I did NOT use the new nut and bolt supplied with the UCA (I didn't like the way it was fitting, or more accurately, NOT fitting through the hole on the spindle); I just bought me some 12mm 10.9 grade nuts, bolts, and washers at the local hardware store; I liked the fit MUCH better.

By the way, those of you that have done this job, did you have any problems reaching the specified torque? I couldn't get the firewall facing nuts to tighten to the specified torque (per Haynes), but I did manage to torque them to the general specs for a 12mm bolt (which was several ft-lbs less than the manual indicated for these fasteners). Will this be a problem in the future?
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-29-2005, 11:46 PM
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i didn't manage to torque it down either but i did use loctite(blue) and snug it as tight as i can and it's been almost a year now and is holding fine.

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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-30-2005, 12:36 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolling-Thunder
O'Reilly Automotive, Inc. is one of the largest specialty retailers of automotive aftermarket parts...
funny I've seen them mentioned here repeatedly and just thought they were in some other part of the country not the south.

I've lived in SWFL for 15 years and I've never heard of them or seen one of their stores, not sure what parts of Florida they're in but it ain't SWFL...

Here it's Autozone, Advance/Discount, Pep Boys, NAPA and a few other non chain type places...

Anyway both the boots on my UCA are shot too. It sucks it's a 97' with only 82K on it and it's a clean car.

I just stopped to take a few pictures of a 96' for sale in a parking lot and it's a year older with 98k on it. Both the UCA boots were fine on it despite it being a northern transplant thats rustier and more weather beaten then my car underneath...

No noises yet. I need to jack it up and check for play and grease the heck out of the UCA balljoints until I do something about fixing it.

What grease would be best to use for the ball joints, I'm not used to lubing and wrenching on suspension stuff.
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post #21 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-04-2005, 04:58 PM
 
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im 16 and i have very little in the knowledge in the suspension world but i did it and and only spent um 18.29 forthe one that blew out but now o got another one to do cuz its goin out. wut sucks is that i was driving whe it went out my car had about an inch of ground clearence so i had to tow it home so actally it was 58.29 for the whole thing
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post #22 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-27-2005, 12:27 AM
 
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yeah, their pretty "easy" to replace them, the only part i had trouble with is the lca, the bolt connecting to the inside rubber bushing was "rotted" to the bushing. i just cut it off with sawzall, it took about six blades though, bolts are pretty tough to get through. everything else was basically common sense
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