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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-29-2005, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
 
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Ball joints DYI

My front upper ball joints are shot and the shop is asking ~$700 for parts and labor for two new upper arms. After reading the forums here, it seems that for $150 in parts I can do it myself.

However, _can_ I do this myself? Do I need a spring compressor? Or just your regular tools to replace the arms?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-29-2005, 06:35 PM
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I think there was a quick walkthrough posted very recently. You do not need a spring compressor. You'll need a few different sized metric sockets and crescent wrenches (I'm afraid I dont remember the sizes off the top of my head), a floor jack, jack stands, a torque wrench, and a pair of little monkey hands.


Its not a rough job, and I'll GLADLY do it for that price... I'll do 'em all day long for that price. Hell, I'll beat the shops price by $200. Who am I kidding, I'd do it for a burger and a beer.

math > pasta
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-29-2005, 11:02 PM
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need a big hammer(16oz or 20oz), pb blaster or wd40(either one), 15mm, 17mm or 18mm, and i think also 19mm? wrench.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-30-2005, 09:10 AM
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I forget the size but a ratcheting wrench helps for the passenger side. I originally bought this set but took it back (because I didn't like the offset on the box end) and got this metric set and the SAE equivalent set.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-30-2005, 09:29 AM
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Hand tools and for a first timer two hours per side if EVERYTHING GOES WRONG.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-30-2005, 09:49 AM
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18mm ratcheting wrench


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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-30-2005, 02:07 PM
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Arm, Upper
Removal
1. Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to «Section 00-02».

2. Remove tire and wheel (1007) assembly.

3. Remove and discard front wheel spindle to ball joint bolt and nut. Slightly spread front wheel spindle (3105) at slot and remove front suspension upper ball joint (3049).

4. Lower vehicle. Not all the way since the tire is off. It's so you can get into the engine bay for the nuts.

I don't know why 5 and 6 are done. The tabs hold it in place so you only need one wrench? I didn't remove mine.
5. Break off flags on upper front suspension arm bushing joint pivot bolt heads.

6. NOTE: Six-point tool will be required due to bolt head corners being shaved off.

Remove upper front suspension arm bushing joint bolts and front suspension arm bushing joint (3085).

Installation

1. Position upper front suspension arm bushing joint and install new bolts without the flags and nuts.

2. Hold upper front suspension arm bushing joint at a horizontal position and tighten nuts to 113-153 N-m (65-87 lb-ft). Prevents bushing wind-up.

3. Raise vehicle.

4. Install front wheel spindle to upper front suspension arm bushing joint.

5. Install new bolt and nut from front of vehicle. Tighten nut to 68-92 N-m (50-68 lb-ft).

6. Install tire and wheel assembly.

The length of time to do this is directly related to rust. Did both sides on mine in about an hour (my first time), but I had been spraying PB Blaster for a week. The 18mm racheting wrench is a must or you'll be turning the nuts one flat at a time.

The prices are ~$50 to ~$65 each depending on where you buy them. So $700 is a major scam. Run away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Good luck,
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-31-2005, 11:13 AM
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well lets see 65x2=130x2 (100 percent markup on parts)=260 so 260 bux for parts.

Then you have labor. 100 dollars an hour an hour per side thats 200 dollars. But you will be paying for their breaks in between so double that you have 400 dollars.

400 bux for labor + 260 bux in parts = 660 dollars and they made it an even 700 to make it look small with the zero's.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-07-2005, 08:07 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FunktasticLucky
well lets see 65x2=130x2 (100 percent markup on parts)=260 so 260 bux for parts.

Then you have labor. 100 dollars an hour an hour per side thats 200 dollars. But you will be paying for their breaks in between so double that you have 400 dollars.

400 bux for labor + 260 bux in parts = 660 dollars and they made it an even 700 to make it look small with the zero's.
Dude, who are you paying $100 an hour for mechanical work? Chip Foose?
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-07-2005, 08:35 AM
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ROFLMAO... the only place you would see 100 dollars an hour for labor is the dealership but that wasn't a real situation. I was analyzing how they justify 700 dollars to fix it... it was joke
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-07-2005, 11:17 AM
 
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Okay, that's a relief...my dealership charged 85 an hour and I thought they were insane for that.
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