I think there was a quick walkthrough posted very recently. You do not need a spring compressor. You'll need a few different sized metric sockets and crescent wrenches (I'm afraid I dont remember the sizes off the top of my head), a floor jack, jack stands, a torque wrench, and a pair of little monkey hands.
Its not a rough job, and I'll GLADLY do it for that price... I'll do 'em all day long for that price. Hell, I'll beat the shops price by $200. Who am I kidding, I'd do it for a burger and a beer.
I forget the size but a ratcheting wrench helps for the passenger side. I originally bought this set but took it back (because I didn't like the offset on the box end) and got this metric set and the SAE equivalent set.
Mid-Atlantic Drag Racing Team. 15.589 @ 88.64 mph MAMN12.COM
Hand tools and for a first timer two hours per side if EVERYTHING GOES WRONG.
Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
1. Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to «Section 00-02».
2. Remove tire and wheel (1007) assembly.
3. Remove and discard front wheel spindle to ball joint bolt and nut. Slightly spread front wheel spindle (3105) at slot and remove front suspension upper ball joint (3049).
4. Lower vehicle. Not all the way since the tire is off. It's so you can get into the engine bay for the nuts.
I don't know why 5 and 6 are done. The tabs hold it in place so you only need one wrench? I didn't remove mine.
5. Break off flags on upper front suspension arm bushing joint pivot bolt heads.
6. NOTE: Six-point tool will be required due to bolt head corners being shaved off.
Remove upper front suspension arm bushing joint bolts and front suspension arm bushing joint (3085).
1. Position upper front suspension arm bushing joint and install new bolts without the flags and nuts.
2. Hold upper front suspension arm bushing joint at a horizontal position and tighten nuts to 113-153 N-m (65-87 lb-ft). Prevents bushing wind-up.
3. Raise vehicle.
4. Install front wheel spindle to upper front suspension arm bushing joint.
5. Install new bolt and nut from front of vehicle. Tighten nut to 68-92 N-m (50-68 lb-ft).
6. Install tire and wheel assembly.
The length of time to do this is directly related to rust. Did both sides on mine in about an hour (my first time), but I had been spraying PB Blaster for a week. The 18mm racheting wrench is a must or you'll be turning the nuts one flat at a time.
The prices are ~$50 to ~$65 each depending on where you buy them. So $700 is a major scam. Run away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
02 AL PI 4.6L, 02 GT MAF and air box, SCT tune by lonnie.
2.25" true duals, no cats, Borla XS mufflers.
96 trans with 300HP + gear change J-mod, Mark VIII TC, & Hayden 30K GVW cooler.
Solid Rubber engine and tranny mounts. Polly front-end, tranny crossmember, and IRS bushings.
3.73 TL, 93 Mark VIII DS. Tokico Blues all around.
PBR dual piston calipers in front, Rear Disc Brake Swap.
97 console. Cooper 225/60/16s. 14.874 @ 93.56 with 3.27 before 3.73 upgrade