New bolts when replacing Front UCA's? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-14-2006, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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New bolts when replacing Front UCA's?

Shop manual said I need to replace the 2 bolts holding the Upper control arms to the body due to having to break off the tabs etc.

Do I need to replace them or can I use the old ones...

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-14-2006, 09:42 AM
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I PERSONALLY left the tabs/flags on them and reused the bolts, and obtained new nylon insert locking nuts. The non-automotive ones I got were a smaller wrench size, so I also got large washers.

I don't see why they want you to break off the flags, the bolts are hard to hold with a 16 point socket since they smash the high points of all the hexes to hold it on, but a hex socket will work to hold it to remove the nut. it MIGHT make it easier to get the ones on the back side of the shock tower off, since you can turn the bolt and hold the nut since you get 1/32 of a turn on it, and you are working it the entire time since it is a locking nut.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-14-2006, 10:15 AM
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I used the original bolts and nuts etc: No problems here.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-14-2006, 11:58 AM
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Some of the harder to find sized nyloc nuts I reused the old ones and used blue thread locker (like the lower shock mount nut) but I didn't reuse any locking nuts and expect them to be lockers anymore.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-14-2006, 01:54 PM
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i reuse mine and didn't broke the tab either. seeing no point of breaking them. i use blue loctite as well on all the bolts.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-14-2006, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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What about the bolts that you have to "hand tighten" and then torque when they are on the ground so the suspension is loaded?

Did you use locktie on them and how?

Also did you use any special ie grade 8 nylock nuts or just any ones you could find at the local hardware store?
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-14-2006, 03:08 PM
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That is why I got the nylon lockers for the UCA to shock tower bolts, when I did the LCA to shock I jacked up the spindle intil all the weight of the car was on it and then tightened it down with thread locker.

These bolts and nuts are in sheer, so I don't see how grade 8 would be needed, but some sort of thread locker likely is. I have suffered from a caliper bolt coming lose and sending the brake caliper into the wheel once, and anything that doesn't get tightened solidly with only one thing between the head and the nut gets thread locker. I don't want or need to learn the science of stretch and why they stay together, I just want them to.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-10-2007, 07:46 AM
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I know this is an old post but how do you get the nut off the back side of the UCA on the drivers side without breaking off the flag? I don't have any room to turn the wrench. Also, if I wanted to break off the flag how do you do that? Just turn it hard till it breaks?

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-10-2007, 10:09 AM
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i take out the shock/spring so i have room to work. i know its more work, but i dont see how you can take the upper bolts out without having the spring out of the way.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-10-2007, 10:16 AM
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i've never had to go to any extreme to get them out. Gear wrenches are very handy. There isnt a lot of room between the shock towers and the firewall but you can get in there.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-10-2007, 11:07 AM
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Right now I have an 18mm open end wrench and I can't get enough throw on it to break the nut loose. Any brand gear wrench you recomend?

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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-10-2007, 05:17 PM
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-10-2007, 05:36 PM
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You should be able to 'double wrench' it to get it broken free (using the box side). For ease of replacement if it fails (and assuming you have a sears nearby) I’d get the craftsman wrench.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-11-2007, 12:31 AM
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Use pb blaster the night before.

Then use a box end, and a BFH to get it loose, THEN the gear wrench.

Gear wrench+BFH= bad idea...even the double wrench idea can strip them out...the sears guy doesn't like me bringing back tools with parts broken off anymore...

I did the drivers' side today, and the passenger side is tomorrow.

Did the lowers, tie rod ends,strut rod bushings... man am I sore...

The book (Ford OEM Manual from Helm) says 'tap the ball joint lightly and it will fall free' My A**!

A 16lb sledge and a pickle fork will definitely remove it tho...

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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-11-2007, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
Then use a box end, and a BFH to get it loose, THEN the gear wrench.

Gear wrench+BFH= bad idea...even the double wrench idea can strip them out...the sears guy doesn't like me bringing back tools with parts broken off anymore...

I did the drivers' side today, and the passenger side is tomorrow.

Did the lowers, tie rod ends,strut rod bushings... man am I sore...

The book (Ford OEM Manual from Helm) says 'tap the ball joint lightly and it will fall free' My A**!

A 16lb sledge and a pickle fork will definitely remove it tho...
I did the whole driver's side last night. Yes I am sore too. However the manual says nothing about getting a cutting torch out to get the strut rod to frame bushing out, unless someone forgot to cut 1/4 inch off it and it flanged the ends. Go to autoslut or napa and get a tie rod end remover and a pitman arm remover (both cost about 35 bucks). It makes it a lot easier.
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