95 Cougar Front sway bar links - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-30-2006, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
 
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Question 95 Cougar Front sway bar links

Hey folks,
I'm back to pick your brains. My kid and I replaced the rear sway bar links last Saturday. No problem. Tonight we tried to do the front sway bar links. Had to give it up and put it back together.

I got the top of the link loose from the rotor area, but the bottom would not come free. I was hitting it with a hammer and long punch. It just flat would not budge. Since the car is driveable, I elected to put it back together before it turned into a fiasco.

So, what's the trick? It appears that the mounting stud is swelled in the center to press into the hole it mounts in. I have seen mention of using ball joint tools, but don't own one, and don't even know if that's what I need.

Do I need a special tool? Or just a hammer, punch, and persaverance? Also, if I do get it off, how do I press the new one into the hole securely?

Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-30-2006, 06:26 PM
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Pitman arm tool. I used one on the spindle end and the swaybar end endlink (an the lower ball joint and the tie rod end but your not doing that).

I went to harbor freight tools and bought the 5 dollar one, and it has easily already paid for itself (two complete front end rebuilds, and one partial on the 89).

Once you get the old one out, you just push the new one through and tighten it down. You MIGHT need to use a prybar or something to hold the endlink up against the spindle/swaybar so it doesn't turn the entire ball, I ended up using a small hydraulic bottle jack and prybar (since I was going at it alone, I used the bottle jack on the other side on the swaybar to hold it from turning).

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-30-2006, 06:30 PM
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U can rent tools through napa, autozone and i think pepboys. Its free too. You pay up front with how much it costs, and u get all the money back when you return it including tax.

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-30-2006, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
 
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Okay, at the risk of sounding dense..........

I just looked at some pictures of a pitman arm puller. I *assume* what I would be trying to do here is to clamp it around the sway bar, and as I turn the bolt of the tool, it pushed against the stud in the sway bar link, and PUSHES it out? I ask because all of the tools are talking about the tool having PULLING action.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-30-2006, 08:24 PM
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It is the U looking one with the center bolt. The legs of the U go over the spindle (or swaybar if that end) on the endlink side and hook, and the center bolt goes in the middle of the stud that the nut was removed from. You turn the bolt and it presses it out. I tried the small ball joint remover that the service CD shows, and I had no luck. That was the style that goes between the ball joint and spindle and spreads. I also had no luck with a pickle fork style, except to tear up what was left of the boot.

--
97 Mark VIII LSC/Silver/Gray leather
97 Cougar 4.6 Sport/White Opalescent Tricoat Metallic /Gray leather down but not out?
89 Cougar LS 3.8/Oxford White/Gray velour/HG need replaced AGAIN
00 Grand Marquis LS/Vibrant White/Gray velour
63 Falcon 302/black and rust/shed isn't moving
82 F-150/Oxford White/dumb VV carb doesn't pass emissions
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-01-2006, 05:52 PM
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I clamped some vice-grips on the threads and got the stud to turn in the bar. Then it punched right out.

Since I was replacing a less-then-a-yr-old moog that the boot had already torn up on, I thought it wouldn't have been siezed in there yet. After beating on it for an hour and going past the zone's closing time, that's what I came up with.

Wish I'd have thought of it an hour earlier.

Rob

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-02-2006, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
 
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Got 'er done. Thanks for the ideas!
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-09-2006, 12:06 PM
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I just smack the end of the bar with a hammer, works fine

Drive it like you stole it!
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