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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-22-2010, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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P1443

I got the P1443 Code pop the CEL on. I replaced the EVAP sensor like it says. How do I clear the code. The CEL light stayed on upon starting the car and letting it run at an idle for about 10 mins.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-22-2010, 08:50 AM
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Have you tried disconnecting the battery?

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-22-2010, 08:54 AM
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Couple points here:

The P1443 code indicates low flow from the EVAP canister through the sensor to the throttle body. It's not a "this part is bad, replace it" code. It could've been the sensor, yes, but it also could've been a leaky rubber vacuum hose from the sensor to the metal rail on the passenger side of the engine bay, or the hose from aforementioned metal rail to the throttle body.

The code will not clear until the diagnostic that failed has been performed successfully; meaning you have to experience the conditions which cause the check to take place. Your car's computer is not going to command the purge valve to open at idle. You're going to need to drive it for a bit.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-22-2010, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
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I did pull the battery last night. The light went out. Came back on this morning. Have not had it check to see if it is the same code that has popped up.

I'm thinking it wasn't the EVAP sensor now. I believe all the vacuum lines are solid from what I can see.. Is there a schematic of the vacuum lines? So I can trace them all?

What else could cause this code.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-22-2010, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Downbylaw View Post
Couple points here:

The P1443 code indicates low flow from the EVAP canister through the sensor to the throttle body. It's not a "this part is bad, replace it" code. It could've been the sensor, yes, but it also could've been a leaky rubber vacuum hose from the sensor to the metal rail on the passenger side of the engine bay, or the hose from aforementioned metal rail to the throttle body.

The code will not clear until the diagnostic that failed has been performed successfully; meaning you have to experience the conditions which cause the check to take place. Your car's computer is not going to command the purge valve to open at idle. You're going to need to drive it for a bit.
"or the hose from aforementioned metal rail to the throttle body."

What is that? Pics?
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-22-2010, 10:13 AM
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There should be a vacuum diagram on the core support.

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-30-2010, 07:30 AM Thread Starter
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Fixed!

I replaced the EVAP and the Purge valve. Then after pulling the battery the CEL has not came back on. I have drivin well over 120miles. I'd assume its save to say its fixed.

Car has more power and overall seems to be running better.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-06-2010, 03:52 PM
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When I had that code I replaced the sensor and solenoid. I let the light stay on until the car itself cleared the code by determining the problem was gone.

It does take a few days and a few on off cycles.... by on off I mean the car starts from cold, runs til hot, then cools to cold again. I think the manual says 3 - 4 start cycles, then if the computer detects the problem isn't happening it shuts the light off.

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-06-2010, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by GRNDPNDR View Post
When I had that code I replaced the sensor and solenoid. I let the light stay on until the car itself cleared the code by determining the problem was gone.

It does take a few days and a few on off cycles.... by on off I mean the car starts from cold, runs til hot, then cools to cold again. I think the manual says 3 - 4 start cycles, then if the computer detects the problem isn't happening it shuts the light off.
I have been driving the car for a little over a week now and the light has not came back on. I have had to fill up 2 times in that time frame. I have not gauge gas mileage because the GF drives it sometimes and only puts in a few $$ screwing up my mileage count.

I hope by typing this message I dont jinx myself and it comes on when I leave work to go home. .

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-06-2010, 08:39 PM
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I changed the sensor and the solenoid, as well as all rubber vac lines-they where all rotted...no more code
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-25-2011, 06:10 PM
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Figured adding on here was better than starting a new thread.

Anyway, I ended up with this code last year. I know the remedy is to replace all the vacuum hoses, then the valve and sensor. However it seems the code only shows up when the temperature is over a certain point (about 80 degrees), and after the temperature has been below that point for a while the code is automatically cleared. Could this be a sign that any particular part is causing the issue, or should I not waste my time trying to think it through and just replace parts? This also has been happening to a friend's 97 sport for some time now.

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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-25-2011, 06:24 PM
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My car had this code for the first year I owned it...it did not matter, hot, cold, very hot, extremely cold, the code was there, all the time. Replaced the sensor and the solonoid, and had no choice but to replace ALL rubber lines, because, although they "looked fine" they fell apart when I touched them.

absolute PITA to get to and change these parts....but if you remove the front bumper cover (and I removed the header panel, too) it's a piece of cake.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-25-2011, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earl View Post
My car had this code for the first year I owned it...it did not matter, hot, cold, very hot, extremely cold, the code was there, all the time. Replaced the sensor and the solonoid, and had no choice but to replace ALL rubber lines, because, although they "looked fine" they fell apart when I touched them.

absolute PITA to get to and change these parts....but if you remove the front bumper cover (and I removed the header panel, too) it's a piece of cake.
I cussed more while doing this on mine (because I did it from underneath/wheelwell area) than when I pulled out the engine to do a head/cam/intake swap lol
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-26-2011, 03:11 AM
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It's to my understanding , and i heard this somewhere that when you have a check engine light .If you fix the so called code if you just drive the car that it will reset after 75 miles of driving if the problem is fixed. cause i had this code and i replaced the sensor not the selenoid cause i tested the seleniod and it functioned just fine and i replaced the vacuum lines and my light when away after a couple trips to work which is a bit of a drive .

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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-26-2011, 02:23 PM
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It's not 75 miles or any magic number. It's the number of complete drive cycles.

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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-26-2011, 05:13 PM
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I just figured "heck with it" and replaced everything (except the solenoid; tested and functional) while I had the fender out.

FWIW, the purge sensor BWD CP509 from Advance is actually a Ford part and can be had for under $18 if you order online with the P20 coupon.

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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 02:20 PM
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thats weird i had a P0175 and p0172 on my car so i replaced MAF and replaced some vacuum elbows on the engine it was running a bit smoother and i disconnected the battery...have gone through a couple drive cycles with it and today the cel pops on again go to advanced and its the P1443 and their scanner doesn't have a definition so i found this thread...my question is in my replacing of some vacuum hoses could i have put an ill-fitting one on and now its leaking...


also last night i put gas in drove two houses down to my house, next morning drove 15 miles to school and on my way back from school it turned on...(may not be related)
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