Coolant Flush, Hot Engine, Cold Water? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2010, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
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Coolant Flush, Hot Engine, Cold Water?

Trying to plan the cooling system flush I'm going to do in a bit and I got thinking about many coffee pots being broken by being hot and having cold water put in them.

It's winter here, and below freezing, I have some stuff to do before I can flush my ghastly cooling system, so I won't be able to do it with a totally cold engine.

I have some chemical cleaner that says safe for all cooling system metals that requires driving around a bit with the cleaner/water mix.

After that I want to put the flush kit on and back flush my heater core and cooling system before finally filling with coolant and distilled water.

Is there a concern with the cold water from the hose going into the hot or warm engine for a flush? I'm going to install the flush kit "T" on the heater core outlet, but where should I drain the water from??

I know to backflush the heater core alone it needs to be disconnected, but for everything else what is the best way to get the water running out so it cleans out every nook and cranny?? Bottom rad hose? The hose from the bottom of the reservoir?

Rest In Peace Mom.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2010, 11:29 AM
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just wait til it cools down a bit...doesn't have to be "cold cold", if its warm nothing bad will happen
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2010, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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Well I sort of went through the process..... just after I got it drained it started snowing, and hasn't stopped since. There is now a foot of snow on the ground.

I cut into the heater core outlet tube and back flushed my core by draining its inlet tube to a bucket. Then I back flushed the engine and through the thermostat housing and degas bottle but I didn't remove the bottom rad hose.

I also used prestone super flush or whatever it is. although I only had it in the engine for an hour or so, not the 3 - 6 hours the bottle suggests but only because I couldn't let the engine cool and freeze. It only had water and cleaner in it.

So after the final drain (2 to remove the cleaner) it took a bottle of coolant and a bottle of distilled water, plus whatever is left in the engine.

I'm not sure how well it went because it seems like the degas bottle was FAR FAR sludgier than the engine appeared to be. The engine still runs about the same temp but the heater seems to be much hotter.

My draincock also decided to break. The nut-like head on it snapped right off. If it wasn't for the hex key slot that still existed and the fact that I had a spare draincock from my parts car I would have been totally screwed.

so now its just a matter of letting the system settle down and topping up with coolant as needed.

It should be full though, I removed the thermostat and filled it from the degas bottle until water came up to the thermostat housing.

All in all, one hell of a job to do with a ton of snow on the ground and a blizzard happening around you.

Rest In Peace Mom.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2010, 04:50 PM
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Did you 'Burp It "

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2010, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
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.....i'm not sure.

how do you burp it? I'm sure it needs to be done.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-06-2010, 06:05 AM
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4.6s are bad about getting air pockets in the coolant passages , I believe that the "Book" calls for the rear heater hose took off and coolant poured in till it starts coming out the heater hose . them put hose back on the intake and finish filling up, I believe that is right , If not someone will chime in for sure

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-06-2010, 07:00 AM Thread Starter
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Well when I filled it up I had the cap off of the T fitting in my heater outlet and the thermostat housing off.

I filled the degas bottle until water came up to the thermostat. Then I put it back on and poured water into the heater outlet T until it couldn't take any more and capped it off.

I'm still not sure if water is flowing fully through the upper rad hose as it seems empty sometimes. But the fan does come on so water must at least be getting to the sensor to turn the fan on and open the thermostat.

Also after it was cold lastnight I started it and heard water rushing into the heater core. I shut it off and did it again and water rushed once more. a third start and I didn't hear water rushing.

Its dead winter so hopefully if there are air pockets the cold outside temp will help keep the engine from overheating.

I gotta check it this morning and see what the level is, but there is 2 feet of snow on my car.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-06-2010, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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hooray for snow..... off topic but now my car is stuck at a grocery store parking lot.

The engine didn't freeze though <-- (edited..... it said free instead of freeze)


I'm so screwed ......


btw, I keep smelling coolant from time to time but there doesn't appear to be any leaks anywhere that I can see.

Could it be from coolant and water spilled during the flush? could it be my heater core? The floor inside isn't wet (from coolant) so i'm a little concerned.

Rest In Peace Mom.

Last edited by GRNDPNDR; 12-06-2010 at 03:41 PM.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-06-2010, 03:52 PM
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where do you smell it? inside the car?
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-08-2010, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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leak in my heater inlet hose. pretty bad if the hose gets disturbed in anyway, but doesn't leak all the time.

I might be able to fix it because I can't get a hose here anywhere, and if I could they are $30. or $8 on rockauto but $22 to ship.

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-10-2010, 07:04 AM Thread Starter
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after doing this flush I notice my car now seems to run cooler, but at the same time will also run hotter.

It's winter and theres a lot of snow which has caused the engine to have to work a bit harder at times. Ive noticed the heat going up to almost 3/4 of the way to red. but will cool down fairly quickly. I'd be more worried if it were summer.

If the heater is on it runs much cooler, a bit below the middle, maybe 1/4 of the way, but will also still heat way up if I end up revving the engine.

due to the leak I had kept adding coolant when it was low, which may have been a mistake because when the engine was hot there was quite a bit of pressure on the rad hose, and I had to open the degas bottle to let some coolant spill out......twice.

It now seems to be at a normal level without excessive pressure when hot and my leak patch I think is holding for now.

When I start it cold I can hear water rushing through the heater core. Is this normal??

What's up with the excessive heat? why does my temp gauge seem more "active" now than it did before the flush?

Rest In Peace Mom.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-10-2010, 07:14 AM
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It may have a air bubble in the water passages

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-10-2010, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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I just had that same thought today. an air pocket would heat up, expand, and cause excessive pressure wouldn't it?

How can I purge it? I'm still having the same problem. I found I was down on fluid today, added more. I've been driving, and got home, checked it when hot and running, and I was down again. maybe a little less than a litre.

I don't think I have a leak anywhere else, I don't see coolant in the snow under my car.

I hope I didn't mess something up in my haste to get the job done as it was starting to snow extremely hard about 1/3 of the way into the flush job.

Rest In Peace Mom.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-10-2010, 03:45 PM
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Just keep adding coolant to the overflow. Ive never burped a 4.6 engine unless it was a DOHC.
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