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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2010, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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Fuel Pump Access in 93 Thunderbird

Hi, I did a search here and came up empty handed.
Does anyone know if there is an access plate in the trunk, or under the back seat for changing out, or servicing the fuel pump?
Thanks in advance.
-Bruce
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2010, 11:56 AM
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No, you'll have to drop the tank to get at it.

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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2010, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
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No, you'll have to drop the tank to get at it.
Thanks for the reply.
-Bruce
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2010, 09:12 PM
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If you absolutely have to cause there's no other way..Here's the location of the sending unit..
Another member did this to their Thunderbird..


Photo courtesy of BlackBirdSport..
Attached Images
File Type: jpg gas tank.jpg (87.2 KB, 23 views)

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1991 Ford Thunderbird Sport

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Last edited by Rayo; 07-01-2017 at 05:12 AM. Reason: update pic..
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2010, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Rayo, Yeah, That doesn't look like something I'd want to do to my bird.
-Bruce
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2010, 11:57 PM
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With all that wet fuel sitting there, me thinks he was lucky that he didn't cause sparks?

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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-12-2010, 12:08 AM
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With all that wet fuel sitting there, me thinks he was lucky that he didn't cause sparks?
I think he used a pair of tin snips..



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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-12-2010, 12:20 AM
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I wouldn't even do that to a car I hated, what an idiot.

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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-17-2010, 12:07 PM
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I did that....sorta.......but what I did was for a purpose.....where the hump is, I took it out....I don't need no stinkin hump!


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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-17-2010, 12:08 PM
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hmmm, I guess there wa no "hump" on some of these?

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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-17-2010, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
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I wouldn't even do that to a car I hated, what an idiot.
Why? who is going to see it? I wouldnt do THAT kind of a hack job on it mind you.... But, if you do it right, it makes swapping a fuel pump a 30 minute job. I did this to an old '91 5.0L Cougar I had. the car was rough so I didnt care. But when I was done butt welding it back in and grinding the welds down, the door was invisible.

When I change the fuel pump in the Bird I will be doing something similar, only I will be cutting that section out (only slightly bigger), of a parts car and make a removable trap door.

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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-17-2010, 02:58 PM
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Other than the draft, noise and fumes permanently emanating from the rear seat area every time I drive? I guess the idea of being a hack to save a whopping 20 to 30 minutes of precious time doesn't sit well with me either.

Maybe I'm just picky but If I know there's a big hole chewed up somewhere in my car it would bug me, weather its the result of corrosion or tin snips.

-Matt
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-17-2010, 04:17 PM
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Yeah call me crazy but I'm not a fan of cutting into the sub frame of the car right by the gas tank especially. I assume you made your cuts with a grinder and cut off wheel... that means sparks right next to the gas tank. This also means that in order to maintain the structural integrity of the car, you must weld that piece back in. Which means more hot works by the fuel source of your car. Moral of the story is "just drop the friggin gas tank!"
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-17-2010, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1WLD BRD View Post
Why? who is going to see it? I wouldnt do THAT kind of a hack job on it mind you.... But, if you do it right, it makes swapping a fuel pump a 30 minute job. I did this to an old '91 5.0L Cougar I had. the car was rough so I didnt care. But when I was done butt welding it back in and grinding the welds down, the door was invisible.

When I change the fuel pump in the Bird I will be doing something similar, only I will be cutting that section out (only slightly bigger), of a parts car and make a removable trap door.
WHY in the world would you WELD over the top of the PLASTIC gas tank ?!?!?
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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-17-2010, 04:36 PM
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Yeah call me crazy but I'm not a fan of cutting into the sub frame of the car right by the gas tank especially. I assume you made your cuts with a grinder and cut off wheel... that means sparks right next to the gas tank. This also means that in order to maintain the structural integrity of the car, you must weld that piece back in. Which means more hot works by the fuel source of your car. Moral of the story is "just drop the friggin gas tank!"
no structual intergrity will be lost in the car by cutting out that little bit.

These are unibody cars, and that cut is no where near the subframe....

here are a few pics that i have hosted that show the area in question...

top side, original hump..



underneath, you can see where the subframe stops...the area under there is where the tank sits.....








with that said, i agree that it would not be safe to have any kind of heat or sparks in that area, but as far as stucual goes, you should be fine.

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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-17-2010, 05:07 PM
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IMHO, the engineers at Ford clearly designed the car to not have an access point right there. There is probably a reason why. Whether it will make it worse or not I honestly am not sure, but why take that risk?
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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-17-2010, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I suppose another option would be to just eliminate the fuel tank altogether and mount a fuel cell in the trunk?
Seriously though, anybody know what the fuel tank capacity is for this car? I ran the tank as empty as I dared so I could drop it to have a look, but with the holidays so close I just said the heck with it for now and filled it back up. It took 15 and a half gallons to fill it to the top, so I'm thinking maybe 16 gallons?
-Bruce
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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-17-2010, 05:30 PM
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18 gallons

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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-17-2010, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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18 gallons
Thanks, I guess I still had a ways to go then.
-Bruce
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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-17-2010, 06:26 PM
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Thanks, I guess I still had a ways to go then.
-Bruce
IF and ONLY IF you could possible suck every drop of gas out of your gas tank. Drive it emply and let us know...

I have driven a couple different cars out of gas completely (not on purpose lol) and I am usually able to put MORE than the capacity (I'm guessing because of the filler neck and such).

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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-17-2010, 11:51 PM
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I have seen mention of a few folks here filling up with close to 19 gallons...

-Brandon
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-18-2010, 08:56 AM
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Well, I suppose another option would be to just eliminate the fuel tank altogether and mount a fuel cell in the trunk?
-Bruce
I am..


Nick......................I'm back!!!
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rest in peace JL
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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-18-2010, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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I am..
After looking at your image, I may just have to follow your build.
Not sure I want to go quite as far as you are here, but that sure looks good.
-Bruce
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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-18-2010, 02:45 PM
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I am..

That thing will be empty be the end of the driveway

20 gallon FTW!

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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-19-2010, 06:09 PM
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WHY in the world would you WELD over the top of the PLASTIC gas tank ?!?!?
LMAO, do you think it is the density of a pepsi bottle? and how hot do you think any spatter from I tiny mig will get? I will tell you.... NO WHERES NEAR hot enough to burn through that tank. not even close to getting hot tnough to do damage to one even. Dont believe me? take a hand saw and cut a scrap tank open and see how thick they are.

The only danger is if you are sloppy and get fuel all over the place changing the pump. and as I said. I would make a removable flap this time mainly incase I wanted to upgrade again or change the pump again...

and saving an extra 30 mins? Fack must be nice to not have any issues with rusted bolts or breaking old fuel lines or anything... never seen an mn12 around here that it would be easy to drop the tank on. Now a fox on the other hand. fuel tank dropped and pump swapped and back on the road in 30 mins .

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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-19-2010, 07:50 PM
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LMAO, do you think it is the density of a pepsi bottle? and how hot do you think any spatter from I tiny mig will get? I will tell you.... NO WHERES NEAR hot enough to burn through that tank. not even close to getting hot tnough to do damage to one even. Dont believe me? take a hand saw and cut a scrap tank open and see how thick they are.

The only danger is if you are sloppy and get fuel all over the place changing the pump. and as I said. I would make a removable flap this time mainly incase I wanted to upgrade again or change the pump again...

and saving an extra 30 mins? Fack must be nice to not have any issues with rusted bolts or breaking old fuel lines or anything... never seen an mn12 around here that it would be easy to drop the tank on. Now a fox on the other hand. fuel tank dropped and pump swapped and back on the road in 30 mins .
Shoot, I got under a 1993 Mark VIII in the u-pull-it yard, removed the exhaust completely, lowered the tank, AND removed the two U-rings that go around the driveshaft so I could pull out the One-Piece Aluminum driveshaft out (with a wrench for the driveshaft, a socket set for other bolts - oh, and I used a screwdriver to get the rubber exhaust hangers off) in about 30 minutes. Well, maybe a little longer (I didn't time it), but it went pretty quickly. Gotta love Florida cars!

I've had the tank out of the 'Bird a few times and I guarantee it takes less than 10-15 minutes - there is only 4 bolts holding it on (one is slightly harder to remove because of the heat shield, but I just bent it). At the shop with air, I can have it out in under 5.

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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-19-2010, 11:02 PM
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How hacking a hole and rewelding is easier or quicker is beyond me.

I've gotten 3 tanks off of cars here in the road salt capital of the world, one if which had serious rot. The only added obstacle with the MN12 vs. Fox is the exhaust.

-Matt
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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-16-2011, 12:19 AM
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My '92 has a very slight leak up top if parked over 1/2-3/4 tank, I suspect the gasket where the pump drops in.

Not gonna cut the floor, etc . .... but I see a hose thatr runs over top the drive shaft / third member that must be pulled loose from one sde. It feels like the spigot it mounts to is molded with the tank. Is it fragile?

Also, know about 4 bol;ts and fuel filler connection .... any easy way to release clamps holding fuel line in place to body or just cut?

Thanks.

A fine pair ... ... and whatever you do, Have a Safe Trip!
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