EGR / DPFE / MIL Eliminator - TCCoA Forums
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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-19-2010, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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EGR / DPFE / MIL Eliminator

Ok, I know how some of you feel about "fooling" the ECU and that the proper way to eliminate the EGR is programming, but here is a cheap and quick circuit that will eliminate both your EGR valve and DPFE sensor WITHOUT triggering the Malfunction Indicator lamp. Someone else has a variation of this circuit on their Ranger and claims a 5-10% increase in gas mileage with no MIL, so I'm willing to try it at least and I'll let y'all know the results (2-3 mpg sounds exciting to me).

I know the power resistor pack I have is kind of ugly, it's just you have to have a 33 ohm resistor capable of dissipitating at least 5 watts (so I recommend you use a 10 watt). Well, I didn't have one of those, but I had some 10 ohm resistors so I strung three of those in series. If this thing does work, I'll put together something nice, pretty, and plug-n-play for a permanent installation.

The way this works is the transistor switches on and off so the ECU sees the correct feedback signal from the DPFE circuit (which is about 0.5v with EGR closed and 5v when open). I haven't tested it yet (I just put it together), but I will post the test results and if the EEC is fooled or not.

I know, I know (Daniela tells me all the time), I have too much time on my hands.....






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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-19-2010, 01:02 PM
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If you got a proper tune you would realize this benefit and much much more. The reason the fuel economy might go up is because the pcm commands more spark advance when there its egr flowing into the engine; it has the same net effect of increasing spark advance in the low load/low rpm range.
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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-19-2010, 02:41 PM
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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-31-2010, 09:15 PM
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did it work?

I built your circuit but have not tried it yet just in case it fries a circuit in the pcm and i dont have a spare. I put new heads on and removed the egr blocked the port and removed the pfe so i can get to the plug. Right now everything is plugged in normally with no exhaust gas going into the intake and no flow through the pfe. I threw a code 1407 not sure what that was but nothing for the egr circuit yet.

I want to try your circuit but not sure how it controls voltage as the engine runs. Seems to me that it would only put out 1 voltage signal and not vary the voltage like the existing system does by vacuum and exhaust flow. If the pcm see a 1.5 volt signal all the time it would likely cause a problem in either idle or wot. The same thing if it put out 5 volts all the time. When the pcm runs its checks it will pass till the last test and fail causing a disregard egr circuit. I have read this does not affect timing even though i notice lower mileage when the egr is clogged and the no flow code is in memory. I can clear the code with my scanner but I cant reset the pcm to disregard egr permanently. I think if you remove the egr you should do this, but I don't know any shop with that capability around me.

I am anxious to hear your results.
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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by onecraftydude View Post
I built your circuit but have not tried it yet just in case it fries a circuit in the pcm and i dont have a spare. I put new heads on and removed the egr blocked the port and removed the pfe so i can get to the plug. Right now everything is plugged in normally with no exhaust gas going into the intake and no flow through the pfe. I threw a code 1407 not sure what that was but nothing for the egr circuit yet.

I want to try your circuit but not sure how it controls voltage as the engine runs. Seems to me that it would only put out 1 voltage signal and not vary the voltage like the existing system does by vacuum and exhaust flow. If the pcm see a 1.5 volt signal all the time it would likely cause a problem in either idle or wot. The same thing if it put out 5 volts all the time. When the pcm runs its checks it will pass till the last test and fail causing a disregard egr circuit. I have read this does not affect timing even though i notice lower mileage when the egr is clogged and the no flow code is in memory. I can clear the code with my scanner but I cant reset the pcm to disregard egr permanently. I think if you remove the egr you should do this, but I don't know any shop with that capability around me.

I am anxious to hear your results.
Well, I haven't tried it yet because my gf is going out of town with the Bird next week, and I didn't want to disturb anything right now. The car gets 26-27 mpg right now, runs good, and no MIL. I'll test it and let everyone knows how the testing goes when she gets back (she'll be gone the whole week).

I've actually been thinking about it, and I'm going to try the circuit first just leaving the original EVR in place (not using the big resistor) and just eliminating the DPFE. And yes, I realize that the voltage it's just going to toggle between 0.5 and 5.0 volts, but the EEC should be just fine with those responses/inputs. Why don't you just hook yours up? I assure you the transistor isolates the input from the output so you aren't going to fry anything if you hook it up right.

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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 08:07 PM
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I want to be sure I have the circuit right. I used the same transistor but I am not sure which is the emitter or base.
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 08:17 PM
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If you lay the transistor on its flat side which side is base?
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-02-2011, 02:16 AM Thread Starter
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If you lay the transistor on its flat side which side is base?
Neither, the base is the middle lead:


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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-02-2011, 08:46 PM
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Thanks for the pic, I was 50/50 odds getting it right and luckily i dont have to change it. I will try it this week and let you know.
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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-02-2011, 09:25 PM
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I could actually see this being useful for passing emissions in conjunction with a tune that eliminates the timing changes due to EGR opening. In NJ, for any car 96+ they don't use a sniffer at all, they just plug into the OBD2 port, and if you have no DTCs and no more than 2 readiness monitors not ready, you pass. As my car sits right now, I have the EGR turned off, so my EGR readiness monitor always shows not ready. Emissions-wise, the rest of my car is stock, but for example if I were to delete the rear O2s and the smog pump, my car would now show 3 readiness monitors not run, and I would not be able to pass emissions, even though everything would be working properly in the computer. So a simulator like this would allow you to leave EGR turned on in the tune, not get a check engine light, and not have a readiness monitor continually not run.

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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-02-2011, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by MadMikeyL View Post
I could actually see this being useful for passing emissions in conjunction with a tune that eliminates the timing changes due to EGR opening. In NJ, for any car 96+ they don't use a sniffer at all, they just plug into the OBD2 port, and if you have no DTCs and no more than 2 readiness monitors not ready, you pass. As my car sits right now, I have the EGR turned off, so my EGR readiness monitor always shows not ready. Emissions-wise, the rest of my car is stock, but for example if I were to delete the rear O2s and the smog pump, my car would now show 3 readiness monitors not run, and I would not be able to pass emissions, even though everything would be working properly in the computer. So a simulator like this would allow you to leave EGR turned on in the tune, not get a check engine light, and not have a readiness monitor continually not run.
That is why I have my rear o2 sensor eliminators instead of a tune to delete them.

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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-05-2011, 04:31 PM
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I have the p1407 code right now which is no flow detected. I have the connectors hooked up as normal with the egr bypassed with plate. Tomorrow I will try and connect the resistor pack and see if i can get the code to go away. I am also running in open loop not sure why yet. I run hydrogen so I installed a O2 adjuster for the front O2's. It may be adjusted too far out right noe because I don't have the hydrogen running yet. As far as I know the p1407 will not put the car into open loop so it must be the o2 adjuster setting. Hopefully I will have this figured out tomorrow. Got my fingers crossed.
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post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-06-2011, 06:30 PM
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I did the tests today. The 1407 code went away for a while and then it showed up after the 3rd key on event. I changed the wires around on the connector since my wires are a different color code and drove some more. I got a 1401 code then meaning high voltage dpfe. I switched the wires around again since i have never had this code and noticed a resistor touching another resistor lead. I separated them and ran several more key on events and after 4 there is no 1407 code. So far so good. I am only using the dpfe part of the circuit since the solenoid can operate normally without egr being active.

My open loop was caused by my O2 adjuster being set for the hydrogen. I turned on the hydrogen before I started testing today and the car went into closed loop instantly. The O2 sensor was set too sensitive without the extra oxygen supplied by the hho unit. I had already had this adjusted prior to rebuilding the engine and it operated the same way as before once it was switched on. My average mileage was 20 yesterday and 23 today. This is still a little low from my previous testing, but not bad for starters.

I will continue to monitor the cel and see if it comes back on with the 1407 code which this device should fix. As far as pinging or rough idle there is none. If the mileage was hurt from not having egr gasses taking up space it was compensated for by the hho improving combustion. Now to see how long it will go before throwing another egr code.
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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-06-2011, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
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I did the tests today. The 1407 code went away for a while and then it showed up after the 3rd key on event. I changed the wires around on the connector since my wires are a different color code and drove some more. I got a 1401 code then meaning high voltage dpfe. I switched the wires around again since i have never had this code and noticed a resistor touching another resistor lead. I separated them and ran several more key on events and after 4 there is no 1407 code. So far so good. I am only using the dpfe part of the circuit since the solenoid can operate normally without egr being active.

My open loop was caused by my O2 adjuster being set for the hydrogen. I turned on the hydrogen before I started testing today and the car went into closed loop instantly. The O2 sensor was set too sensitive without the extra oxygen supplied by the hho unit. I had already had this adjusted prior to rebuilding the engine and it operated the same way as before once it was switched on. My average mileage was 20 yesterday and 23 today. This is still a little low from my previous testing, but not bad for starters.

I will continue to monitor the cel and see if it comes back on with the 1407 code which this device should fix. As far as pinging or rough idle there is none. If the mileage was hurt from not having egr gasses taking up space it was compensated for by the hho improving combustion. Now to see how long it will go before throwing another egr code.
WhooHoo!!! Glad to hear it works and the problem you were having was a short in your circuit! That is awesome news and thank you for sharing!!!

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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 03:26 PM
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I ran the car several more times today with no codes. If the egr throws a code I will post it here. Thanks for the egr fix.
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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-09-2011, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I put it in a pretty box now!

I started building these circuits and putting them in relay boxes; they look so much nicer and protected now!

Now when people get the kit from me, it comes with:

Circuit Enclosed in relay box
4 Splice Connectors to connect to existing vehicle wiring
Tie-Wraps
Instructions with Diagrams and Photos

Here is a recently completed unit:


Here is the connector view:


Here is what is inside the box (it's the same as the circuit in the first set of pics above):


Eventually, I'd like to build them inside the DPFE box so it looks stock on the automobile!

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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-10-2011, 01:50 AM
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and how much do you think it would cost?????

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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-10-2011, 02:11 AM Thread Starter
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and how much do you think it would cost?????
I don't know, I've been charging $45, but it may fluctuate if my costs do.

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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-07-2011, 03:51 AM
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And where would one find these for sale? i would like to get one.
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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-15-2011, 09:39 PM
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How is testing going, how about mileage?


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post #21 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-16-2011, 12:53 AM Thread Starter
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How is testing going, how about mileage?

Truth is, I haven't done a lot of extensive testing. The MIL has not come back on in three weeks, but I have some other problem with the 'Bird and haven't been able to log any good MPG runs (I have a problem with either the u-joints or the half-shafts and the vibration is getting REALLY BAD, so I'm gonna have to fix it before the car leaves us stranded).

This week I will fix the 'Bird, but then I have to go out of state for almost two months (and I'm taking my van) next weekend. So I won't be able to really log some good mileage runs (like by the tank full) for awhile. I'm sorry about that y'all.

I promise as soon as I'm able I will log all my results and display them all for you here. I can tell you this! Daniela was yelling like crazy about how the Thunderbird was "surging" all the time, and she was worried it was going to break down. Since the circuit install, not only is the MIL light out, but the car runs VERY smoothly now with no "surging" at all!

I have to figure out my vibration problem now. It's definately either the u-joints or the half-shafts, because the vibration changes as the car goes up and down with the surface of the road. It used to only vibrate under acceleration, but now it does it accelerating or decelerating (and it's getting worse). It only runs smooth when cruising.

Anybody else who has either bought one off of me or built one themselves and installed it, please feel free to post your experiences and results with this circuit! Thank you very much in advance for all your input!

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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-16-2011, 01:53 PM
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i've still gotta check my board to see whats goin on with it,, hott glued it in a relay box... maybe thats y its not 100% no code yet..

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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 04:06 PM
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NetkeyM:
Q: I had a question about this EGR simulator circuit.

In the above circuit, you say that you need 33 ohm transistors capable of dissapating 5watts.
Don't you mean 0.5watts (or 1/2 watt)?

The reason I ask is because your pictures all show carbon film resistors.... and these only go up to 1/2watt dissipation.
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/sto...0001_659817_-1

Resistors capable of 5W of dissipation are much larger. They typically look like small white bricks.
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/sto...0001_660375_-1

Would you mind confirming your numbers again?
I have found that I will need to block off my EGR for my splitport upgrade and without an ECU reflash, I need to do something about the EGR valve.

Thanks,
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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 04:15 PM
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i made some for my car yeeeears ago......didn't notice any difference with my car, but a buddy who had a stang with an off road h-pipe used them to turn off the MIL.

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post #25 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 04:20 PM
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i made some for my car yeeeears ago......didn't notice any difference with my car, but a buddy who had a stang with an off road h-pipe used them to turn off the MIL.
I'm not expecting any performance improvement; I believe EGR is disabled at WOT which is what the track car SHOULD be at most of the time anyway (when not braking).

I just want to disable the MIL.
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post #26 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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NetkeyM:
Q: I had a question about this EGR simulator circuit.

In the above circuit, you say that you need 33 ohm transistors capable of dissapating 5watts.
Don't you mean 0.5watts (or 1/2 watt)?

The reason I ask is because your pictures all show carbon film resistors.... and these only go up to 1/2watt dissipation.
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/sto...0001_659817_-1

Resistors capable of 5W of dissipation are much larger. They typically look like small white bricks.
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/sto...0001_660375_-1

Would you mind confirming your numbers again?
I have found that I will need to block off my EGR for my splitport upgrade and without an ECU reflash, I need to do something about the EGR valve.

Thanks,
-g
The big resistors are in the 4th pic down - this one (see the white blocks on the left):


You can leave the EVR instead of messing with those so the correct load will be there. I'm also considering a new circuit that instead of using a switching transistor would use one with more of a ramp feedback (closer to the real thing).

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post #27 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 06:35 PM
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Do you make Mil eliminators for the rear O2's aswell Rick? IF so I'm interested in a set for "Raven". "Midnight"'s comp never saw the hollowed out cats, the Sport's comp does lol.

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post #28 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Do you make Mil eliminators for the rear O2's aswell Rick? IF so I'm interested in a set for "Raven". "Midnight"'s comp never saw the hollowed out cats, the Sport's comp does lol.
I haven't tried them myself, but I found a simple circuit on the net you can try (you just need a 1M resistor and a 1uF cap):

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post #29 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 07:14 PM
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So if I'm understanding that correctly, the resistor and the cap go on the O2 side before it plugs into the harness from the car? Sorry electrical is definately not my strong point

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post #30 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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So if I'm understanding that correctly, the resistor and the cap go on the O2 side before it plugs into the harness from the car? Sorry electrical is definately not my strong point
Yes, the left side is the harness that goes to the car and the right side is the end that has the O2 sensor on it. If I understand the diagram correctly, you don't even remove the O2, just splice the resistor and cap into the wires.

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