Q: What's inside an A/C compressor? Can I gut it? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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Q: What's inside an A/C compressor? Can I gut it?

Hi:
As mentioned in my previous posts, I'm working to convert my 95 Thunderbird LX 3.8L into a track car for Lemons.

Contrary to the post found here, I cannot seem to find a position to mount my tensioner puller to the accessory bracket in a spot where it will be a) secure and b) in the same plane as the rest of the pulleys. Basically, I need an A/C delete but the rules for Lemons dictates that such a bracket would come out of my budget.
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=93468

The backup plan is to swap my WORKING (tested 2 days ago before R134a drain) A/C compressor and all the other bits I don't need for someone's broken (any interest? PM me.) A/C compressor that I can then modify as per the plans below.

Basically, i'm hoping to gut the AC compressor and turn it into a essentially a simple bracket with a pulley. Before I go through with a trade (or gut the working one I have -- seems like a waste), I had a basic question.

Q: What's inside the compressor?
My Ford shop manual considers it one part and really doesn't break it down.
I know that technically, it's a system to liquefy the refrigerant. My question is more specific. if you look at the picture below, it appears that there are four bolts holding the back end of the compressor housing to the front end.
If I remove these four bolts, will I be able to remove the entire back half of the compressor and the guts WITHOUT the shaft (or whatever the pulley is mounted on) falling out? Or, do I need to remove the pulley first? OR (worst case scenario and not what I want to hear), do I need the guts/back half of the compressor housing to hold the shaft or whatever the pulley is attached to in the right position?

Ideally, what I want to be left with is the front half of the compressor and the free spinning pulley.
Is this idea even possible?




Thanks in advance for your replies.

I don't want to tear until I a) find someone with a suitable compressor to swap b) come to the conclusion that this compressor is unwanted (I'm not sure how many people want to fix their A/C in winter. Every dollar in parts sales (interior bits anyone) offsets the $500 budget imposed by Lemons so I'm quite eager to unload some of this stuff (I guess I need to post a little more to get into the forsale section).

Regards,
-g

Last edited by S4gunn; 01-16-2011 at 07:07 PM.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 11:20 AM
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As long as the clutch isn't enabled, the only part you're spinning is the pulley. IMHO, not worth it to gut a perfectly good compressor for minimal hp. If you take the belt off, you'll see how easily the pulley spins. If it doesn't spin easily it is bad.

Just use the compressor as is, but don't connect the electrical wiring. That is the same as a free spinning pulley.

But just my .02.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 12:04 PM
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94 Daily Driven 4.6L View Post
Just use the compressor as is, but don't connect the electrical wiring. That is the same as a free spinning pulley.

But just my .02.
X2 It is already set up to be an idler pulley when the clutch isnt engaged. You might save a pound or two by taking out the guts, but I think it wouldnt be worth it.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 11:47 PM
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I wonder if you could just take it off and get a shorter belt? Or fab up a bracket off of the compressor mount?
Just a thought or two.
Larry

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 12:28 AM Thread Starter
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I looked at the shorter belt method but I couldn't find a suitable place to attach the tensioner without fabbing up a new bracket.

Any new bracket would have to be bought (I don't have the expertise to accurately position it) and that cuts into the $500 budget set by lemons.

I'll run it with the compressor just free spinning but if I can get away with ditching some of that 14.7Lbs, I'll do it.

Thanks again for the link to the air compressor disassembly.
-g
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 05:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S4gunn View Post
I looked at the shorter belt method but I couldn't find a suitable place to attach the tensioner without fabbing up a new bracket.

Any new bracket would have to be bought (I don't have the expertise to accurately position it) and that cuts into the $500 budget set by lemons.

I'll run it with the compressor just free spinning but if I can get away with ditching some of that 14.7Lbs, I'll do it.

Thanks again for the link to the air compressor disassembly.
-g
Between now and then, it might be better to lose 14.7 pounds from the driver.

Just saying ...

RwP
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 09:05 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
Between now and then, it might be better to lose 14.7 pounds from the driver.

Just saying ...

RwP
While that point might be true for the average Tbird owner, 14.7LBs is nearly 10% of my total weight. I'm not going to be dropping very many pounds here and certainly not 15.

Of course, I could just race thing thing around buck naked. That'd save me ~5 Lbs.


-g
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