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post #1 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-22-2011, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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my exposed k&n filter

i dont want to put it down in the fender but i do want to get it enclosed so its not sucking up hot engine air.. Just wanted some ideas from you guys. i did research and i know about dirty maf issue. I dont oil mine, just clean it. Anyways.. gt air box i know ive seen someone on here make they're own air box.. I still have my original air box is there anyway i could reuse this?

Note that i installed a 3in chrome intake from scp(just the pipe) And the pipe was shorter then i thought so i had to attach the L Bracket closer towards the block. Im sure that if you have done this before you know what im talking about

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post #2 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 12:49 AM
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By not oiling the K&N, you dramatically reduce its ability to filter anything.

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post #3 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 01:12 AM
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Should have spent that $200 towards a PI intake.

I see on a lot sandrails out here in the desert, with turbos that is. On the turbo, a filter is directly mounted and wrapped around the filter is a netting. This keeps sand out of the filter and more importantly out of the turbo. I am assuming that your problem with it being in a fender well is it getting dirty quickly, and of course rain would be a big deal too.

IMO run the filter in the fender with a netting like i mentioned. It will help keep it a little bit cleaner, and in terms of rain just swap out the stock intake (that is making sure you don't dispose of it). As far as oiling the filter just make sure you give it a few hours to dry (I give mine a full 24 hours) and just apply conservatively. If you think you put too little on, then its just enough. At least thats my rule.

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post #4 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 01:49 AM
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^This.. And cleaning and oiling ALOT!!
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post #5 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 01:32 PM
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UNI filters makes sheets of open cell foam for dirt bike filters; get a sheet, use flexible RTV to glue it together around your filter. Use scotch tape to hold it together until the rtv cures. (no latex tape; painter's tape is latex based))

It will be removable and cleanable, and keep all the crap off the real filter. It only stops the big stuff. It has to be oiled as well.

I ran this combo on a competetion ISDT bike,and every car I had to drive on a dirt/gravel road for the last 30 years; it works great.

Make several covers, and swap them regularly; they pull off like a sock.

BTW, Stock, as long as you pull the inlet resonator off the airbox, there's no real restriction on the stock airbox with a clean filter until ~5000rpm. (~1psi drop in front of the [email protected] 5000rpm. How may seconds do you spend there? )

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post #6 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 03:12 PM
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After years of running k&n air filters in varying configurations, I have come to the conclusion that a paper filter on the factory airbox is fine...no oiling, no mess, and no sucking in HOT engine compartment air
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post #7 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 06:22 PM
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If you don't want to put the filter in the fenderwell, then get some sheet aluminum and make yourself a box.


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post #8 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by racecougar View Post
If you don't want to put the filter in the fenderwell, then get some sheet aluminum and make yourself a box.

SUCH A NICE LOOKING ENGINE COMPARTMENT!!!

Reminds me of Frankencougie's dash panels circa 2003
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post #9 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 08:58 PM
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After years of running k&n air filters in varying configurations, I have come to the conclusion that a paper filter on the factory airbox is fine...no oiling, no mess, and no sucking in HOT engine compartment air
+1, a quality paper filter....NO FRAM!!!!

(I figure their air filters must be as bad as their oil filters)
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post #10 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by thunderferret View Post
+1, a quality paper filter....NO FRAM!!!!

(I figure their air filters must be as bad as their oil filters)
I have a fram paper filter in the car...put it in there back when I was having all the problems that turned out to be O2 sensors...was just a "while you're there" change it out with everything else kinda deal. It's fine. Just checked on it the other day, not even dirty yet nice clean texas air

Gonna put a motocraft in there next...I'm leaning more towards stock motocraft / ford parts these days....hell, I have a motocraft battery in mine, from the dealer...how many people still running those?
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post #11 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 11:02 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Earl View Post
SUCH A NICE LOOKING ENGINE COMPARTMENT!!!

Reminds me of Frankencougie's dash panels circa 2003
that is real freakin sweet. Thanks for the idea


And with the oiling of the filter. If a paper filter will filter my intake then a non oiled k&n filter that is enclosed would pretty much be the same thing.. so why is a non oiled k&n filter bad?

Plus i alreeady save money if i never have to buy another filter.. Just use a toothbrush or compressed air to clean.. Thats what ive done. Now is there anything wrong with what ive been doing besides not having my K&n not enclosed in a box?

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post #12 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by stay_unique_91 View Post
Should have spent that $200 towards a PI intake.

I see on a lot sandrails out here in the desert, with turbos that is. On the turbo, a filter is directly mounted and wrapped around the filter is a netting. This keeps sand out of the filter and more importantly out of the turbo. I am assuming that your problem with it being in a fender well is it getting dirty quickly, and of course rain would be a big deal too.

IMO run the filter in the fender with a netting like i mentioned. It will help keep it a little bit cleaner, and in terms of rain just swap out the stock intake (that is making sure you don't dispose of it). As far as oiling the filter just make sure you give it a few hours to dry (I give mine a full 24 hours) and just apply conservatively. If you think you put too little on, then its just enough. At least thats my rule.
Now are these basically those bags that just cover the cone filter?

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post #13 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 11:10 PM
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Now are these basically those bags that just cover the cone filter?
yeah in a nutshell. lol

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post #14 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 11:10 PM
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K&n filters achieve their "high flow" by taking a substandard filtering material (cotton gauze) and make up for it with the oil to catch the particulate...so an un oiled filter will not be as effective at doing its job ... also, never use compressed air to clean a k&n filter - you will create holes in the filter, which is bad. If you have done this, replace the filter.
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post #15 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=Earl;1353460]K&n filters achieve their "high flow" by taking a substandard filtering material (cotton gauze) and make up for it with the oil to catch the particulate...so an un oiled filter will not be as effective at doing its job ... also, never use compressed air to clean a k&n filter - you will create holes in the filter, which is bad. If you have done this, replace the filter


see i learn something new everytime i log on. haha

will do definately..
i was thinking about going back to the stock box.. but keeping the chrome intake to prevent any restriction of air flow along with removing silencer. are the k&n stock airbox filters oiled too? im thinking bout just using that..

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post #16 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96thunder4.6 View Post
are the k&n stock airbox filters oiled too?
yep

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post #17 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-24-2011, 03:27 AM
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i was thinking about going back to the stock box.. but keeping the chrome intake to prevent any restriction of air flow along with removing silencer. are the k&n stock airbox filters oiled too? im thinking bout just using that..
Save the money. Just get a paper filter. Now all this business about Fram being a bad filter that is news to me. My father used Fram as long as I can remember, and I have used Fram oil and air filters on all my cars (plus I really like the grip on the Fram oil filters ). I have a K&N filter because I found it at the junkyard just by random.

Plus you have to look at the recharging kits for the K&N, out here in AZ they are about $14 at my local Napa. And those recharge kits are worth only about 2 or 3 cleanings, 4 if you are extremely conservative. Plus they give you too much oil. In the 3 cleanings i use maybe 3/8 the bottle. When my current recharge kit runs out I will go back to paper.

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post #18 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-24-2011, 09:33 AM
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fram oil filters are the worst oil filters you can use.
check out a website called bob the oil guy.
He goes over tons of oil filters, and why some are better than others.

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post #19 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-24-2011, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earl View Post
SUCH A NICE LOOKING ENGINE COMPARTMENT!!!

Reminds me of Frankencougie's dash panels circa 2003
Thanks. If you're talking about the turned aluminum panels, those took some serious time to do. The worst part is that it's mind-numbingly boring, but you have to stay focused or you could ruin the pattern and have to start all over.



Quote:
Originally Posted by stay_unique_91 View Post
Plus you have to look at the recharging kits for the K&N, out here in AZ they are about $14 at my local Napa. And those recharge kits are worth only about 2 or 3 cleanings, 4 if you are extremely conservative. Plus they give you too much oil. In the 3 cleanings i use maybe 3/8 the bottle. When my current recharge kit runs out I will go back to paper.
Those little recharge kits that they sell in the auto parts stores are a rip-off. I buy the cleaner in 32 oz. spray bottles and the oil in 12.25 oz aerosol cans off Amazon for less than you'd pay for one of those little kits at the store. One bottle and one can lasts me quite a while, and I work on/service a fair number of cars with oiled air filters here.

Quote:
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fram oil filters are the worst oil filters you can use.
check out a website called bob the oil guy.
He goes over tons of oil filters, and why some are better than others.
Couldn't agree more. BITOG is a great site.

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post #20 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-24-2011, 09:32 PM
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Those little recharge kits that they sell in the auto parts stores are a rip-off. I buy the cleaner in 32 oz. spray bottles and the oil in 12.25 oz aerosol cans off Amazon for less than you'd pay for one of those little kits at the store. One bottle and one can lasts me quite a while, and I work on/service a fair number of cars with oiled air filters here.


I learned a long time ago, all you need to clean a K&N filter is a bucket with diluted Formula 88/Purple Power/Castrol Superclean (around 5-8:1 water:degreaser ratio), dunk it in n out of the bucket for just a bit, and hose it with low-pressure water from a garden hose from the inside of the filter out, let it air dry completely, lightly re-oil....sha-zaam! done.
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post #21 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-24-2011, 10:46 PM
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Just use a toothbrush or compressed air to clean.. Thats what ive done. Now is there anything wrong with what ive been doing besides not having my K&n not enclosed in a box?
Don't take this the wrong way but from now on you may want to read the instructions on anything and everything that comes with them.

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post #22 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-25-2011, 01:00 PM
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Don't take this the wrong way but from now on you may want to read the instructions on anything and everything that comes with them.
Yup.

Cleaning a gauze filter with a toothbrush is not smart, if you still want it to filter.

I bet it flows great, lol.

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post #23 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-25-2011, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
Yup.

Cleaning a gauze filter with a toothbrush is not smart, if you still want it to filter.

I bet it flows great, lol.
yea it will easily flow around 600 cfm of dirt straight into the motor lol
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post #24 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-26-2011, 12:07 AM
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yea it will easily flow around 600 cfm of dirt straight into the motor lol
I hear all that dirt will actually port the entire engine for a better flowing block. Is this true? And yes I am just kidding.

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post #25 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-26-2011, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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well today i ended up going back to stock. I also removed my air silencer.. So whats my next approach?

I love the new sound though..

1996 Thunderbird LX 4.6 Cobra R 17x7 Wrapped with 245/45 Eibachs, Air Silencer Delete, Intake,Exhaust. Its fun and still strong.
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post #26 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-26-2011, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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what filters should i check out guys?

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post #27 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-26-2011, 08:48 PM
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what filters should i check out guys?
Paper?

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post #28 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-25-2011, 01:29 PM
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If you don't want to put the filter in the fenderwell, then get some sheet aluminum and make yourself a box.

very nice
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post #29 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-25-2011, 01:46 PM
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The Green air filters are supposed to be good: http://www.greenfilterusa.com/

I was told by a very reputable tuner (RIP Mark) that cleaning the K&N's deteriorates them. After all, it is only cotton gauze, it is gonna shrink a little if it gets wet and dries.

I would limit cleaning the the K&N to every 20k miles or so. They still work well a little dirty, and probably filter better too!


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post #30 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-25-2011, 04:13 PM
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what filters should i check out guys?
im using this one....


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