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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-03-2011, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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Running rough when really cold out?

It has been very cold this week....lows in the teens, low single digit temps with windchill....highs in the low 20s at best...car has been taking it like a champ...but tonight, I start it up, let it idle a bit, and all the sudden, it starts to caugh a little out the exhuast. As I drove home, just crusing along, it seemed fine, seemed normal. Any time I would give it any gas, it would develop sort of a missfire, almost felt like fuel starvation, almost felt like tranny/tc shudder/slip. put it in park and revved to 3K (motor was at full operating temp through all of this) and it revved smooth without any problems. Ever see a 4R70W act up under very cold weather? The miss was comparable to the way it ran when the 02 sensors where bad. Probably just the extreme cold.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-04-2011, 01:28 AM
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If it is starving for fuel, maybe your fuel line is freezing, or condensation in the tank is freezing.

Just a thought.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-07-2011, 12:56 AM
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We had 24 inches here and after digging everything out and driving I got a shudder, or really bumpy rough ride 65+mph. 4 days of driving like that and weather being above freezing with sun out sometimes and it went away. Hope the shocks just got frozen because I was starting to worry about drive shaft or 4th gear, but it did not make sense since rpms did not matter and speed did.

I recently had to replace my manifold due to coolant leak, but I had misfire cel before that. I did plugs and wires and was hoping this would permanently solve the slight cough feeling. (it's kinda like smooth running, tiny bump, repeat. pretty much no one notices but me, and it always did that really) It did not, so I am hoping to now see if it is because I am burning some oil, so I am bumping up to 89 octane and going back to oem 10w30 to see what effect that has.

At this point I should be replacing my side skirts for the rust on the bottom of them there, all o2s and cats with the entire front suspension, with exception of UCA's. After seeing pictures of bad coolant plugs, probably should pull the engine and replace those along with the valve stems...... and I bet if I do all that the tranny will give out lol.

So yeah going to 'try' what I said above and chalk up the minor stuff to the change in climate and not think about it too much :p.

P.S. someone told me SeaFoam is awesome to put in your gas tank to rid it of moisture and impurities. I think it's good to start with the little stuff and than consider the big pitb jobs :p.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-07-2011, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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Running very bad

I had this misfire condition that started a few days ago when it was very cold out. As of saturday, sunday, and this morning, the car was running great. Starting this afternoon, it started to idle rough, and misfire (sounds like it's running on less than 8 cyl)

under anything more than very light accel. the car will run very bad...I heard what sounded like a backfire, then I had a loud pop noise come from what seemed to be the engine compartment...when this happened I swear I could feel the gas pedal move a bit. It did this a couple times any time I would give it any gas. I have no codes, I have good oil pressure, nothing is running hot, no smoke or soot or anything like that out of the exhuast...
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-07-2011, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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OK Update on this....took it for a ride to the store and back...ran horrible. Almost dies when shifting into D...when stopped at stoplights, idling (poorly) oil pressure starts to drop, voltage starts to drop, and coolant and trans temps steadilly rise...when I start driving again, oil pressure rises, not to where it should be, but rises a bit....voltage rises not to where it should be, but not as low as it was...and coolant starts to become less hot....again, still warmer than where it should be.

I have converted the stock oil guage over using the tech article, so, who knows how accurate it is, but it DOES work....for whatever that's worth. Oil pressure dropped down to the N usually it's around the R or the M when I started driivng again it was around the O area.

coolant is usually around 190-198 it rose to about 214 or so, and only dropped to about 200 wanting to climb back up whenever possible.

I put my factory tune back in via XCAL2, to see if any codes showed up (none yet)
I'm thinking I've got MAJOR engine problems

BTW, to whoever moved this, I apologize for starting a new topic, I shoulda known better

Last edited by Earl; 02-07-2011 at 09:24 PM.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-07-2011, 10:05 PM
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I wish I knew what the deal is with our cars when it gets cold. I've read several other topics like this and my car too acts a bit rough when it's cold. What I've read in some of those topics were concerns about the o2 sensors but I cannot recall of replacing them fixed the issue. I'm wondering if a worn out MAF could the cause but then again it could be just about any sensor because now that I'm thinking about it I'm wondering about the IAT sensor. If my multimeter hadn't crapped out I could at least try to figure mine out. Lucky for me though it hasn't been as bad as it used to be.

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-07-2011, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I really don't think my issue is related to cold weather at this point....oil pressure dropping, temps rising, voltage droping, when at idle, running rough, misfiring, backfiring, serious loss of power, seems like maybe severe engine problems....but 200,000 miles, 100,000 of which have probably been hard running....who knows.

Now, worst case scenario, I need a new motor, which way should I go for 2v 4.6? New OEM crate from ford? I work at a dealership, so, that option wouldn't be all that bad....

or....explorer motor? Low milage take-out?
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-08-2011, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8ThunderCat View Post
I wish I knew what the deal is with our cars when it gets cold. I've read several other topics like this and my car too acts a bit rough when it's cold. What I've read in some of those topics were concerns about the o2 sensors but I cannot recall of replacing them fixed the issue. I'm wondering if a worn out MAF could the cause but then again it could be just about any sensor because now that I'm thinking about it I'm wondering about the IAT sensor. If my multimeter hadn't crapped out I could at least try to figure mine out. Lucky for me though it hasn't been as bad as it used to be.
All things are effected by weather.

Earl how old is your EGR valve, wires, plugs? Did you clean the MAF or run the car without the MAF hooked up and see if there was a change? I'd start with things like that first. Right now I have that pop you describe, except its not a sound really, it's mnore a feeling and a sense of odd vibration even if I am just wiping snow off the car and outside the vehicle near the engine. I believe mine is caused by my plug nearest the drivers seat being a likely candidate for burning oil (valve stems probably) and could be causing the sound. However I have replaced the manifold, wires, plugs, egr, and it's livable for me at 104k only.

Anyway my car ran bad and had the same symptoms you described in the past http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.p...t=erratic+idle
replacing the EGR made a world of difference, and that was only I think 1.1 years old at the time lol.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-08-2011, 01:58 PM
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Agreed, don't throw an engine at anything without properly diagnosing it. The reason ford didn't make the oil gauge functional it was to prevent customers from freaking out when it naturally fluctuates in different conditions.

-Matt
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-12-2011, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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FINALLY...it threw a code "P0420" catalyst efficianty below threshold BANK 1"

Looks like it could be a bad cat, or bad o2 sensors...I am going to swap the rear 02 sensors left to right and clear the codes and see what happens...
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-13-2011, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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I read on here, that swapping the rear 02 sensors left to right would possibly change the code from P0420 to P0430, indicating a bad o2 sensor.

I swapped the rear o2 sensors side to side...car runs about as bad as before, maybe a little worse, actually.

And it is still throwing a P0420 code....

So I have a bad Cat?

My exhuast is in really bad shape, actually...badly dented pipe just before the Y pipe, badly dented up dynomax bullit muffler, dents here and there...I could not avoid a large rock in the road one day last summer, when the car was still very low, and it bounced its way through the under side of the car....no real damage other than exhuast.

Here's what I am thinking...new true dual 2.5 mandrel bent setup with an X pipe and high flow cats...people seem to like thos prefab setups on here.

Another thing though...coolant is going somewhere...car is running hot. I never have a puddle under the car, or any drips on the ground, however, today when I was under the car swapping sensors around, I noticed coolant on and around my trans pan :confused; like it had sprayed across it from leaking while driving....where would a leak be, that far back, to leave coolant...well...that far back?
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-13-2011, 04:38 PM
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Bad heater hose maybe

True dual 2.5 mandrel bent setup . is the way to go

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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-13-2011, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I'm not seeing any coolant leaking out of anything, anywhere I'll let the shop give it a good once-over tomorrow at work, see what they tell me. Today coolant temps where getting up around 215 and trans got to 190....normally coolant hangs around 190 - 198 and trans temp does not exceed 150 or so

another thing I forgot to mention...ever since these problems started, I have very LOW heat output from the vents in the dash...I have to close off the passenger side vents and cannot use anything but panel only to get any real heat output....wasn't like this before. Heatercore is intact and not leaking.

Last edited by Earl; 02-13-2011 at 05:32 PM.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-13-2011, 07:50 PM
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You may want to swap the front o2 sensors not the rears. That should help to rule those out. I used to have the same code but after installing a Jerry chip that code went away.

-Randy-
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-13-2011, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8ThunderCat View Post
You may want to swap the front o2 sensors not the rears. That should help to rule those out. I used to have the same code but after installing a Jerry chip that code went away.
About a year ago, car was running real bad, had bad o2 sensors....but with the computer tune, my DTC readout was off.....it displayed codes that did not make sense...pointed to other stuff that wasn't actually wrong....put the computer back to stock, and the codes changed, told me it was o2 sensors, new sensors went in, BAM! no more problems....

this, however, is different...drove it around tonight for a bit...smelled coolant like crazy inside the car...I had to roll down the windows, because the smell was so overpowering.

But no steam/antifreeze on the windows, and no antifreeze on the floor....so heatercore is ok ???
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-25-2011, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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Interesting...today I re-loaded the stock calibration into the EEC, just for kicks...the car had an increasing misfire, idle drops down way low, feels choked off, etc.

Well, it threw a P0420 and a P0430 code...basically, with the stock computer tune, ALL the problems I described back in feb. in this thread are back...with the tune, it runs great. All I can figure is that the tune has the rear 02 sensors deactivated, and with the factory tune, and the 02 sensors reactivated, they are detecting problems with the converters, throwing the code, adjusting the a/f ratio, making the car run badly.

I guess I'll throw the xcal tune back on the car, and finally purchase the new 2.5 mandrel bent exhaust with new cats...maybe go with a new set of 02 sensors while I'm there....here I am trying to not spend money on the car oh well

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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-26-2011, 10:18 PM
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Searching back through this- did you ever clean / replace your MAF? I just solved basically this same problem on my car by cleaning the MAF (granted, not a 4.6, but still...)

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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-27-2011, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Josh_Keady View Post
Searching back through this- did you ever clean / replace your MAF? I just solved basically this same problem on my car by cleaning the MAF (granted, not a 4.6, but still...)
Cleaned, yes, replace, no...gonna start with new exhaust and oxygen sensors

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