Why Won't These Doors Stay Open! - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-25-2011, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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Why Won't These Doors Stay Open!

I'm so frustrated. The drivers door keeps closing on me all the time. Do I need to tilt the car forward or something? Are the hinge rollers worn out? How do you fix this?
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 06:39 AM
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My guess would be worn hinges...my d/s is shot and I have the same problem...passenger side is fine
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 06:49 AM Thread Starter
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There's no slack when I lift the door so I don't know.
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 09:04 AM
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Roller on the lower hinge.

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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 09:41 AM
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Roller on the lower hinge.
Yup. That'd be my guess. It's either worn or broken. Mine got a nice flat spot in it after many years of use.

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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 11:45 AM
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Yup. That'd be my guess. It's either worn or broken. Mine got a nice flat spot in it after many years of use.


Did you use the rebuild kit or replace the hinge ?
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 11:51 AM
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Did you use the rebuild kit or replace the hinge ?
You can re-pin easy enough, but that's not gonna help the spring problem controlling the door closing. If it were mean, I'd visit a boneyard, get one that works and install it with a new pin from Advanced (Dorman 38438):



Good luck with it!

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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 12:15 PM
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Did you use the rebuild kit or replace the hinge ?
I used the rebuild kit. The bushings work great but the rollers that come with those kits are worthless. If you're gonna rebuild your door hinge don't use the kit roller. Just replace the bushings and leave the factory roller on the hinge.

It's probably just easier to get a new hinge from Ford and replace it. The only problem with that is the hinge needs to be painted.

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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 02:10 PM
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I am thinking I will just get a whole new hinge....since half the problem is the flat-spotted roller.....can't cost too much to get just the hinge paitned to match the car....gonna need a new striker, too...those are toast as well.
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 02:12 PM
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The only problem with that is the hinge needs to be painted.
I didnt paint the new one I installed. They have a nice metal color and they tend to keep it for a long time They are right about those white rollers though...total junk. If you could find a nice factory roller on another hinge in the junkyard, you could knock out the pin and get the wheel (probably a passenger side one). Good luck

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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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If the roller gets a flat spot, just rotate it.

In looking at mine, I think the inner diameter of the roller has worn.

I was thinking a quite fix would be to take a soda can and cut out a 1" x 1.5" piece of aluminum and epoxy it to the curved plate the wheel presses against. Might not work very well though.
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 04:45 PM
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That would probably just smash the aluminum flat. Your going to have to build it up. You will already have it apart, just do it right.


I seem to remember reading somewhere the mark hinges dont sag and are bolt replacements

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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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I don't think the aluminum is that soft and you don't have to take it apart. That's why it's easy.
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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You can re-pin easy enough, but that's not gonna help the spring problem controlling the door closing. If it were mean, I'd visit a boneyard, get one that works and install it with a new pin from Advanced (Dorman 38438):



Good luck with it!
How do you get the old pin out?
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 04:58 PM
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Drill out the top or grind it off. You just have to take off the mushroomed part thats pressed from the factory. And you can try the can idea, but I can almost guarantee it wont work. Worth a shot. Report back if it works

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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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A can might be too thin to notice a difference.

I'm betting that the squishy material the roller pushes gets soft over time and usage.

What if we moved that piece closer to the roller? Maybe take a paint scrapper and remove the metal plate and squishy material behind it then epoxy in a 1/8" metal spacer. That might do the trick.
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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 05:52 PM
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Probably, the rubber bushing behind it is probably dried out and shrunk. Replacing the bushing or adding a spacer behind it should do it.

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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-27-2011, 09:42 AM
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How do you get the old pin out?
I take a side angle grinder, cut the old one in half, top half comes out the top, bottom half out the bottom. Simple biscuit!

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Drill out the top or grind it off. You just have to take off the mushroomed part thats pressed from the factory. And you can try the can idea, but I can almost guarantee it wont work. Worth a shot. Report back if it works
I've drilled them before I figured out the easier way. Drilling is a pita, and so it grinding the top down, easier just to cut it in half.

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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-28-2011, 09:41 AM
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I will try that next time I do them. And inevitably there will be a next time.

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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-09-2011, 11:01 PM
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I am doing this for the first time in the next few days with the 38438 pins that Netkym used. I had used the 38410 (truck) hinge pins like the tech articles said to on my last Bird, may she rest in peace. I am looking forward to not having to drill out the hinges for the larger pin & bushing. Cutting pins in the middle with a cut off wheel is the way to go Then a drift and a hammer will knock them out of the holes. If only we could cut the pins without unbolting the hinges. I hate lining up body parts.

I am also going to look for a way to create more "spring" in my roller. Thanks for the tips.

-Rob
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post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-09-2011, 11:41 PM
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I am doing this for the first time in the next few days with the 38438 pins that Netkym used. I had used the 38410 (truck) hinge pins like the tech articles said to on my last Bird, may she rest in peace. I am looking forward to not having to drill out the hinges for the larger pin & bushing. Cutting pins in the middle with a cut off wheel is the way to go Then a drift and a hammer will knock them out of the holes. If only we could cut the pins without unbolting the hinges. I hate lining up body parts.

I am also going to look for a way to create more "spring" in my roller. Thanks for the tips.
I use a small air drill with a cutting disc that is not much bigger than an inch and a half diameter. I did not remove the hinges or the door, did it on the car. I need to do another door, so I'll try to take pics and do a small write up for it.

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post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-10-2011, 01:06 AM
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I tried to use the 38438 kit with my hinge rebuild for the driver's door and I still had to drill the holes to get the bushings to fit? I also used a kit by Needa and it too made me drill the holes. Not a big deal but I think it's weird that others haven't had to drill them.

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post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-10-2011, 06:14 AM
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I will let you know how it goes. I have had to do some "de-burring" before of the holes, but alot of cars, the bushing will tap right in with a small hammer. The truck ones are so ridiculously large that there is no question about drilling them.

Neykym, this is awesome. I am currently using a 3" cutoff wheel on a straight die grinder. It is too fat to fit through the hole, but it cuts the pins like butter after you unbolt the door and push it out of the way. I am all ears about how you did this

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post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-10-2011, 05:28 PM
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I will let you know how it goes. I have had to do some "de-burring" before of the holes, but alot of cars, the bushing will tap right in with a small hammer. The truck ones are so ridiculously large that there is no question about drilling them.

Neykym, this is awesome. I am currently using a 3" cutoff wheel on a straight die grinder. It is too fat to fit through the hole, but it cuts the pins like butter after you unbolt the door and push it out of the way. I am all ears about how you did this
LOL, I just looked at the '95 Thunderbird door I have to do. No wonder you were so interested in how I did it! There's no way to get to that pin without unbolting the hinge that I can see!

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post #25 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-06-2011, 07:02 PM
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My brother and I just did the LH door because I finally had to start lifting it to shut it for the past 3 days. I didnt have a cutting disc with small enough diameter (mine were 3") to cut the pin "butt" (the top side) without hitting the door. So we unbolted the hinges and cut the pins the in the middle. The door is aligned relatively well.

I do need to do some striker adjustments, but it needed those even before all of this happened. I did have to drill the hinges to accept the bushings in the 38438 pin kit. I used a bit 2 steps down from a 1/2" in my box. This was great though because the bottom pin was wearing into the hinge since it had already eaten through the bushing. Using the top hole as a pilot, the bottom hole drilled nice and straight with some oil for lube.

Now the door opens from the outside like magic. The effort to pull the handle is much smaller. Now I just have to fix my drivers interior handle I am going to wear out my window motor getting out of this thing. Next on the list...smaller diameter cutting discs.

-Rob
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