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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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Mark VIII Replacing Antifreeze

I can't for the life of me get the plug out of the crossover. I've soaked it with PB Blaster, have almost rounded out the 1/4" hole, and even hooked a pipe wrench to it and no budge.

I'm afraid to apply heat as I think there is an o-ring seal which I don't want to melt.

Does the plug absolutely have to be out, or will the system eventually work any air out of the system (without overheating)?

I'm open to suggestions.

97 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC (Chip'd, 3.73 T/L... so far... )
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 04:12 PM
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yeah, when I did mine I couldn't bleed all the bubbles out without opening that. if you really can't get it open, you might have to look into getting a new crossover tube from a junk yard.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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After breaking off that motor mount bolt (and having to weld the motor mount bracket to the engine.... ) I'm REAL gun shy of unbolting the crossover (or anything else that bolts to the engine for that matter!!!)

I have a good crossover somewhere in the house, so I might have to go that route.

97 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC (Chip'd, 3.73 T/L... so far... )
97 Ford Aspire (Slow, but getting 36 mpg (f'n Ethenol!! )
84 F250 Dually w/6.9L Diesel (7.3L IDI pending)
73 Mercury Cougar Convertible w/351C 4V (Partially Restored)
69 F100 LWB w/460 Engine
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 04:31 PM
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is there a hose up high that you could losen to get some air out?

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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Sadly, not that I know of. That plug is the highest point in the system.

97 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC (Chip'd, 3.73 T/L... so far... )
97 Ford Aspire (Slow, but getting 36 mpg (f'n Ethenol!! )
84 F250 Dually w/6.9L Diesel (7.3L IDI pending)
73 Mercury Cougar Convertible w/351C 4V (Partially Restored)
69 F100 LWB w/460 Engine
76 Glastron Carlson 23' Jet Boat w/460 CJ Engine
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 06:38 PM
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What about one of the hoses that leads to the heater core? Those are fairly high up there.

If that won't work, what about positioning the car so the front end is high up in the air (wheel ramps?). Then you can run the engine with the coolant tank open until the thermostat opens. Would that purge the air out of the system?


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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 07:06 PM
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Nope the crossover is higher than the surge tank. Bottom line is the cap has to come off.

-1996 Pearl White Thunderbird 4.6 Sport 4v with many mods:
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 09:12 PM
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Jack up the front of the car until the rad is above the crossover tube, then fill it up.

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-06-2011, 10:17 PM
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I'd put some heat on it and get it off, you won't get the air out otherwise.
This guy sells some nice replacement caps or get an oring in case: http://www.lincolnsonline.com/forum/...ad.php?t=72407

Ϣr

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-06-2011, 10:49 PM
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If possible sand or file the finish off of the top of the crossover cap, drive to a exhaust shop, throw a welder some cash to weld a nut onto the cap. Remove the cap. Paint the cap black. Coat the threads in antiseize. Enjoy your easy to remove cap. I've broken a few of my favorite 1/4" drive ratchets on those crossovers.

-1996 Pearl White Thunderbird 4.6 Sport 4v with many mods:
Current Best: 13.583 @ 103.74 10/2014.
227hp/241tq measured on calibrated mustang dyno, tested at full vehicle simulation with inertia enabled, no number skewing.
-2001 White Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.8 V10, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG KO2's, Bilstein 7100 Remote Reservoir Race Bypass Shocks, 6" Spring lift, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, FlowMaster Exhaust
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-06-2011, 11:38 PM
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Yes, good idea Chris. I broke 2 ratchets on mine then had one of the guys at work weld a nut to it (though I did get mine off, then welded the nut to it after,) and at that time my car had never seen snow or salt. Makes it real easy in the future

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-07-2011, 12:04 AM
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Bleeding the system.

In the "for what its worth" column, here is another way to bleed. Fill the system as well as you can by either positioning the car as others have suggested, or removing one of the heater core molded hoses and filling from the radiator cap, until coolant comes out of the heater hose. Re-install the hose an tighten the clamp. Now start the car and run until the thermostat opens or the upper hose gets hot to the touch. Shut off the car and wait a couple of minutes. Now go back to the heater hose that you first used and SLOWLY I mean no more than a 1/4 turn at a time, loosen the clamp just until you hear a hissing sound. This is the air in the system. Let the hissing continue until actual coolant starts escaping. Now tighten the clamp and let the car sit until cool. Top off the reservoir/radiator as needed.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-07-2011, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the feedback guys.

I'm tempted to:
1. Drill out the 1/4" square "hole" with a R (0.339) drill bit (being mindful of the chips)
2. Tap said new R hole for a 1/8" NPT plug
3. Fill the system with antifreeze
4. Allow the air to bleed out
5. Install the pipe plug

I cant think if any reason that wont work. Can anyone else think why it wouldn't work?

97 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC (Chip'd, 3.73 T/L... so far... )
97 Ford Aspire (Slow, but getting 36 mpg (f'n Ethenol!! )
84 F250 Dually w/6.9L Diesel (7.3L IDI pending)
73 Mercury Cougar Convertible w/351C 4V (Partially Restored)
69 F100 LWB w/460 Engine
76 Glastron Carlson 23' Jet Boat w/460 CJ Engine
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-15-2011, 03:19 PM
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Just heat the thing up really well and take it out. You can get a new O ring for a dollar or less anywhere. Then you'll have it fixed and it won't cause you trouble for a long time.

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