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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-18-2011, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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Liquid Chill Coolant Additive

Has anyone ever used this before. "Mishimoto Liquid Chill Coolant Additive"
The add reads that this will cool up to 30 deg. cooler when added to regular coolant.
Was wanting to see if any of you guys have any info of the result of using this before I buy it.

Thanks

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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-18-2011, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pilgrim View Post
Has anyone ever used this before. "Mishimoto Liquid Chill Coolant Additive"
The add reads that this will cool up to 30 deg. cooler when added to regular coolant.
Was wanting to see if any of you guys have any info of the result of using this before I buy it.

Thanks
I've always wondered about that "liquid cool" formulas myself. I tried one once, but to me, it made absolutely no difference (or minimal enough that I couldn't notice - and I notice almost EVERYTHING).

Logic would suggest that while some additive may change the "boiling point" of your coolant, it would be almost a miracle to make the coolant remove more heat and cause the engine to run cooler.

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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-18-2011, 07:14 PM
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Sounds like its the same as "Water Wetter® Coolant Additives"

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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-18-2011, 10:03 PM
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similar to water wetter, these usually dont work well unless you run straight water not antifreeze. they are what is referred to as a surface tension modifier. they make the water "stick" better to metal

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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-18-2011, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Paddycake View Post
similar to water wetter, these usually dont work well unless you run straight water not antifreeze. they are what is referred to as a surface tension modifier. they make the water "stick" better to metal
Logic again would suggest that would make the engine run hotter if the water isn't moving but "sticking" to the metal. But I have read exactly what you just said...

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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-18-2011, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys for the info.
I'm going to order this Friday and soon as I have added this to the car and drove it around for a day or two I'll hopefully have seen a difference in temp readings and I'll post it up.

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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-18-2011, 10:23 PM
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I flushed the cooling system on my old 95 bird, adding a bottle of water wetter to the prestone 50/50 that I used....it ran at a consistant 190-198 degrees all the time.

When I first bought my current 96 bird, the coolant was nasty looking, brown, needed a flush. I changed it out with straight prestone 50/50, and nothing added. Car ran at a consistant 190-198

Now, the car has genuine ford VC-5 green coolant. The car runs at a consistant 190-198

I think that pretty much sums up my opinion on additives...nothing against them, but they don't do squat for a DD car.
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-18-2011, 10:24 PM
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Logic again would suggest that would make the engine run hotter if the water isn't moving but "sticking" to the metal. But I have read exactly what you just said...
"wetter" doesn't cool anything, it allows the system you have to more efficient. It increases the surface contact of the coolant to the metal at the molecular level. More surface area is better, any "drag" created by this is far outweighed by the cooling properties and the coolant pump (being under pressure, the system overcomes drag much easier than any vacuum or gravity feed system).




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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-19-2011, 08:45 AM
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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-19-2011, 04:07 PM
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If you have a marginal cooling system water wetter agents will help transfer the heat from the coolant to the radiator faster. At best it is a bandaid to help hide the need for a cooling system upgrade.
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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-20-2011, 09:27 PM
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Nothing cools better than water*, so antifreeze/water doesn't cool as well as water.

In fact, a 50/50 mix is about 30% less efficient than pure water.

Adding a surfactant doesn't really change much; it's the water percentage that gives the gain in efficiency. But they don't compare to pure water in the ad...





*someone will mention liquid metals, like sodium. Let me know how that works for you, lol.

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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-20-2011, 09:38 PM
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Well I was thinking more of an ionic solution of Sodium and Water.

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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 04:24 PM
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Well I was thinking more of an ionic solution of Sodium and Water.
Salt water? lol Sodium Chloride or Sodium Iodide?

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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 07:09 PM
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Chloride is what I'm thinking about.

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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 09:49 PM
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I'd say the heater core would hate the whole ionic anything; The really good part of the wetter or coolant is the rust inhibitors. Those remove ionic compounds from the mix.

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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-22-2011, 06:36 AM
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I run water wetter in my 69 F100 and I did notice an improvement. However, like PaulS1950 said, I think it only works if you have a marginal cooling system.

In 90 - 100 deg weather, cruising at 75 mph (3K rpm), my 472 would slowly overheat (well not overheat as I never let it go that far, but the temp would slowly increase until I had to do something). Pull off to the side of the road and let the dual electric fans pull the temp down. It only got hit at cruising speeds.

I added water wetter to the water only solution I was running and I can now cruise in 100 deg without getting hot. (Well the engine at least... in 100 deg weather, and no A/C, I'm roasting!!! )

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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-22-2011, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
Nothing cools better than water*, so antifreeze/water doesn't cool as well as water.

In fact, a 50/50 mix is about 30% less efficient than pure water.






*someone will mention liquid metals, like sodium. Let me know how that works for you, lol.
And MORE than a 50/50 mix can cause an overheat.

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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-22-2011, 09:35 AM
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I really wouldn't recommend running 100% water in an iron block motor due to obvious reasons. The ethylene glycol actually raises the boiling point of the water while offerening a lower freezing point. I'd run a 70/30 mix of water and coolant in the summer and a 50/50 mix in the winter if you experience mild over heating in the summer. I've used the "Water Wetter" in my Mustang and found absolutely no difference in the average coolant temp in the summer.

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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-23-2011, 12:09 AM
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I really wouldn't recommend running 100% water in an iron block motor due to obvious reasons.
I agree completely; I was saying above that the 30% figure you hear has a basis.

I'm just not willing to run without antifreeze, and water wetter is not antifreeze.

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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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Well it's been awhile since I added this and nothing has changed in temp. I'm flush'n it right now and try'n a new mix, I think this time it's go'n to be 70/30 so Ill have mor water and a bottle of RED LINE water wetter.

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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 06:13 PM
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Well it's been awhile since I added this and nothing has changed in temp. I'm flush'n it right now and try'n a new mix, I think this time it's go'n to be 70/30 so Ill have mor water and a bottle of RED LINE water wetter.
YES! Someone gets it.

Does ANYONE read literature or do they go by guess.
The above is exactly what Red Line suggests. It WILL NOT lower the temp below the Tstat spec. It becomes less effective the more glycol in the mix. Because it makes the water 'wetter' not the glycol.


http://www.redlineoil.com/content/fi...ech%20Info.pdf

And the boiling point is controlled by the system pressure. You know.. the cap! A surfactant will reduce hotspot bubbling {think of the hiss you hear heating water in a used teakettle} by getting the water 'closer'.

- But there's even MORE BS in this thread:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...&Number=266007
{Note the guy who said WW caused his rad to rust, what a moron! I hope I dont have to explain that to you guys}
HOWEVER note the guy who uses it in computer systems. Transfers more heat than water alone..Showing the SCIENCE works.

If it aint gonna freeze, you dont need antifreeze, but you DO need corrosion inhibitors and lubricants. The RedLine info covers that. Dont trust it? Use TWO bottles!

Here's a lot of different sites with people say it does work for marginal overheating:
http://www.google.com/search?q=how+r...r+wetter+works

Glycols do NOT carry heat as well as water does. PERIOD. Why run too much 'just to be safe'!
Get a cheap coolant tester. close enough.

Run the lowest percent of glycol to protect from freezing down to 30% which is low as you shoudl go without another additive, such as RedLine.

I KNOW FOR A FACT Red LINE works.. But it wont solve the problem of overheating under power at speed so much as it does at stop and go traffic. That's where I got my impressions. I'd always had trouble in traffic on hot days in my SVO, even at 70/30. Red Line in there, almost never went above nominal.

If you are overheating at power and speed you have either an air or coolant flow problem or both. Especially if it doesnt overheat in stop and go. Redline might help but only move the scales, so to speak

* * *
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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 07:31 PM
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If you are overheating at power and speed you have either an air or coolant flow problem or both.
Agree, if it's overheating a lot you may want to look closer at your entire cooling system. Mine runs just a hair over normal in stop and go when it was 120 out. (I don't have a real temp gauge). When Dan rebuilt my motor he cleaned out my radiator and although it was only 4 years old or so and had been flushed a few times it was packed with crap.

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Funny I've never seen anyone talk about how to get the hot air out from under the hood.
Cowl/Ram hood.

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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 09:07 PM
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Just gonna add, I was helping my dad on the 89 F350, and when we went to O'reilys, we couldn't find any water pump lubricant, so we bought some water wetter because it had things that lubricate the water pump bearings, and I doubt it would hurt the system so why not?

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I don't use water wetter due to an experiment (accidental experiment) I for whatever reason added distilled water to my water wetter and somehow it got left on a shelf, the solution solidified a few days later. Not something I want near my cooling system. I will however be using the liquid child additive when I switch to a mishimoto radiator.

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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-20-2011, 12:17 AM
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Just gonna add, I was helping my dad on the 89 F350, and when we went to O'reilys, we couldn't find any water pump lubricant, so we bought some water wetter because it had things that lubricate the water pump bearings, and I doubt it would hurt the system so why not?
The lubricant is inside of the Antifreeze / Coolant .. and there should be a seal to protect the bearing from coolant.
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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-20-2011, 07:37 AM
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I'm just glad there is only about 2 more months before it starts cooling off here. The heat was brutal this year.

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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-20-2011, 11:30 AM
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I'm just glad there is only about 2 more months before it starts cooling off here. The heat was brutal this year.
Your telling me, the heat index yesterday was over 115!

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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-20-2011, 07:33 PM
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I don't use water wetter due to an experiment (accidental experiment) I for whatever reason added distilled water to my water wetter and somehow it got left on a shelf, the solution solidified a few days later. Not something I want near my cooling system. I will however be using the liquid child additive when I switch to a mishimoto radiator.
This is nice to know!

I have a nice mishimoto rad in the Red car, not quite hooked up. I need <100° days to work in.

Man, Cobra radiators are huge compared to ours...

I'm running 70/30 glycol mix, and the fan comes on in traffic, but it sits about 180° while moving; It's been 95 here all week.

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Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-20-2011, 09:44 PM
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Your telling me, the heat index yesterday was over 115!
And that's headed this way for the next 4 days.

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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-21-2011, 03:17 PM
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I'm just glad there is only about 2 more months before it starts cooling off here. The heat was brutal this year.
Lucky you guys up in northern areas. It wont be cool here till Nov/Dec time and might only last 1-2 months if that. I use the Red Line product and it seems to keep things right in my car. Then again I replaced my radiator 2 months after I bought my car too and have had it in since. Thinking about it, it's time to flush again.
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