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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-23-2011, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
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No start after fuel filter and heater core

Hey everyone, i just got done putting a new heater core and fuel filter on my '95 4.6 bird, but the replacement it started and ran fine, after replacing the core and filter i have spark and all accessories but i cant hear the fuel pump turn on at all when i start up the car, i have no fuel pressure at the fuel rails or filter. Could this be just the relay gone bad by chance? i have taken apart the dash again to see if i missed anything but everything is in order, no cut wires, unplugged harnesses. I also tried popping the inertia switch once to see if there was anything but no results. Am i missing something or should i look into getting a new fuel pump?
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-23-2011, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Zachmb View Post
Hey everyone, i just got done putting a new heater core and fuel filter on my '95 4.6 bird, but the replacement it started and ran fine, after replacing the core and filter i have spark and all accessories but i cant hear the fuel pump turn on at all when i start up the car, i have no fuel pressure at the fuel rails or filter. Could this be just the relay gone bad by chance? i have taken apart the dash again to see if i missed anything but everything is in order, no cut wires, unplugged harnesses. I also tried popping the inertia switch once to see if there was anything but no results. Am i missing something or should i look into getting a new fuel pump?
Do you mean before the replacement?
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-23-2011, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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Do you mean before the replacement?
yeah before i started any of it, it ran fine
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-23-2011, 10:43 PM
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yeah before i started any of it, it ran fine
Ok. Sounds like you killed the ignition switch. Did you drop the column and take out the dash.

The switch is a very weak piece of doodoo so it's easy to break and/or wears out. Even the new ones are pieces...

Cheap item to try first.

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-23-2011, 10:59 PM Thread Starter
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Ok. Sounds like you killed the ignition switch. Did you drop the column and take out the dash.

The switch is a very weak piece of doodoo so it's easy to break and/or wears out. Even the new ones are pieces...

Cheap item to try first.
Yeah i dropped the column out, ill take a look at the ignition switch see if i can get one ordered up ill post back on here with any results thanks
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 01:40 PM
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Inertia Switch

Did you unplug the fuel pressure switch when you changed the filter, and forget to plug it back in? Seen this happen before.l..
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 03:03 PM
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your fuel line has air inside it is necessary to vent it to me and something similar happened to me ...
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 04:31 PM
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I can say with all confidence that I don't think that it is the ignition switch, since you say that the car does crank(you said you have spark). If the switch was bad you would not be getting it to turn over at all.

I second that it is a fuel problem of some sort, air in the line, unplugged relay somewhere, or you tripped the inertia switch somehow. I would look at all of that first, try letting the fuel system "gravity bleed" at the filter. Disconnect the line from the fuel tank to the fuel filter and let fuel drip out of it for a while. Then reattach and try to start the car again.

Edit: I just re read your original post, if the fuel pump is not humming when you turn the key, then I would check fuses and relays first for the fuel pump. Then if necessary, before you spend money, check the circuit to the fuel pump at the tank to see what's up. You could try giving it direct power to see if the pump comes on. If it does not, you know you need a pump, if it does run with direct power, then you know it's in the wiring somewhere.

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 05:10 PM
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One of the reasons fuel pumps are located at the tank is so that they "push" the fuel up to the engine instead of "sucking" it from the engine. This eliminates any need to prime the system, and eliminates any possibility of vapor lock.

From the pump the fuel travels up to the rail, and then back to the tank, via a return line. So it is not air in the line.

A simple check for fuel pressure at the rail is to simply depress the shrader valve with the key on.

Also, double check to make sure the new fuel filter is not installed backwards.

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 05:40 PM
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Very true on the filter being mounted backwards, I forgot about that. Thanks Leegrady. I suggested "priming" the system since that would lead the OP to find if there was possible dirt in the line and/or any air, but again, you are correct on the air not causing a vapor lock. The OP did check the pressure at the line I think as posted above.

Its probably a FP relay, fuse or the pump itself, but it does not hurt to try the cheapest and easiest ways first as you stated, the Fuel filter might be backwards, but the OP says he is not hearing the pump at all, and he is getting no pressure at the filter either. So I suggest that it is not the Fuel Filter since he would still have pressure at the inlet side of the filter, and he would here the pump.

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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 95LX4.6 View Post
Very true on the filter being mounted backwards, I forgot about that. Thanks Leegrady. I suggested "priming" the system since that would lead the OP to find if there was possible dirt in the line and/or any air, but again, you are correct on the air not causing a vapor lock. The OP did check the pressure at the line I think as posted above.

Its probably a FP relay, fuse or the pump itself, but it does not hurt to try the cheapest and easiest ways first as you stated, the Fuel filter might be backwards, but the OP says he is not hearing the pump at all, and he is getting no pressure at the filter either. So I suggest that it is not the Fuel Filter since he would still have pressure at the inlet side of the filter, and he would here the pump.
I very much appreciate the civil, and non-egotistical way you wrote a reply to my suggestions. Thank you. We are on the same page.

At this point, if there is no pressure at the rail, and no fuel at the inlet side of the filter under pressure from the pump, and not just siphonning out, then the pump is not working.

The question then is it really a defective pump or caused by error in the heater core replacement causing no power to pump.

Check for battery + at the fuse. If there is no power there I would work my way from there toward the dash, and also run a test lead, with inline fuse built in, to power the fuel pump directly. Same with the relay. Follow a wire diagram, because I'm just hinting to help keep thing moving to solve the compaint.

Another reason pumps are in the tank is for quiet operation. On my '95 T-Bird 4.6 I hear a whirl sound when I turn the key on. But that's about all I ever hear of the fuel pump. If that whirl sound is the pump, and not something else. I'm not sure.

I will add that air in a fuel line, and vapor lock are technically two different things. Vapor lock occurs from gasoline boiling from a heat source.

Lee.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 07:59 PM
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If that whirl sound is the pump, and not something else. I'm not sure. (Posted by Leegrady)

It is sir, and I agree that we are on the same page. That's some sound advice, the OP should follow it and hopefully it leads to the solution.

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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 08:29 PM
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Pump whirl. Yeah. Thanxs.

Had a friend of mine, Steve Idler, with a similar problem on his '93 Mustang. Called me on the phone oneday said, "I've checked everything, and the dang thing wont start!". So I putt over there, and upon a comprehensive diagnosis that took quiet some time I determined that the problem was.......

(Idler was a cool guy. One of the pack I hung out with. Didn't really do much but, he had to be there.)

....outta' gas.

Doh!

Lee.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by leegrady View Post
Pump whirl. Yeah. Thanxs.

Had a friend of mine, Steve Idler, with a similar problem on his '93 Mustang. Called me on the phone oneday said, "I've checked everything, and the dang thing wont start!". So I putt over there, and upon a comprehensive diagnosis that took quiet some time I determined that the problem was.......

(Idler was a cool guy. One of the pack I hung out with. Didn't really do much but, he had to be there.)

....outta' gas.

Doh!

Lee.


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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leegrady View Post
Pump whirl. Yeah. Thanxs.

Had a friend of mine, Steve Idler, with a similar problem on his '93 Mustang. Called me on the phone oneday said, "I've checked everything, and the dang thing wont start!". So I putt over there, and upon a comprehensive diagnosis that took quiet some time I determined that the problem was.......

(Idler was a cool guy. One of the pack I hung out with. Didn't really do much but, he had to be there.)

....outta' gas.

Doh!

Lee.
Lmao thats a good one....tha ole slingblade
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 01:01 PM
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My money is on something being left unhooked inside the car, like a connector. Like these guys said, you need to begin checking for power. The first place I would check is at the intertia switch in the trunk. It should be hot on both sides while the PCM is commanding the fuel pump to run. The fuel pump relay is in the CCRM box by the air filter box and is not servicable by your average joe, unless you know how to solder.

I have seen people install filters backwards on other vehicles and they work just fine in those cases. IIRC, it would be difficult to install the filter backwards on this car anyway. You would really have to not be paying attention to what your doing for that to happen.

If there is power at the inertia switch and no fuel flow, the pump just might be bad. If there isnt power, you can always jump power to it and see if the pump will run.

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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 01:30 PM
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Just a fly the ignition switch can cause the pump not to run and still have fire on a 94/95 I've seen the switch not put proper power to computer and the check engine light was very dim

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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 09:12 PM
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My money is on something being left unhooked inside the car, like a connector. Like these guys said, you need to begin checking for power. The first place I would check is at the intertia switch in the trunk. It should be hot on both sides while the PCM is commanding the fuel pump to run. The fuel pump relay is in the CCRM box by the air filter box and is not servicable by your average joe, unless you know how to solder.

I have seen people install filters backwards on other vehicles and they work just fine in those cases. IIRC, it would be difficult to install the filter backwards on this car anyway. You would really have to not be paying attention to what your doing for that to happen.

If there is power at the inertia switch and no fuel flow, the pump just might be bad. If there isnt power, you can always jump power to it and see if the pump will run.
Probe power before, and after at the inertia switch. Of course! That's good to know. An excellent example of why I return to this site. Very helpful.

So if there is no power at the I.-switch, and the pump runs when connected directly at that connector the OP would then work upsteam toward the battery to find a fault.

Electical system troubleshooting is a matter of divide and conquer.

Thanxs.

Lee.
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