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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-30-2011, 12:18 AM Thread Starter
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Tuning Up & Other Things

Hi again.

I stuck a can of Seafoam in the fuel tank about 2 weeks ago in my 95, got a tad bit of smoke and a ton at one point on a cold day reving it high..

I have some free time so I decided I will clean the MAFS and was wondering if I need to know anything else in particular? I am thinking of getting a can of MAFS cleaner and compressed air (like I read on here, easier than the Q-Tip right?).

What else should I be tinkering with to get a good tune up done? Such as cleaning the Throttle Body, etc?

I idled for a bit before work then gave her a few revs, this has happened before about a year ago and it revs "odd" and BOOM, backfire out the exhaust. Anything to be worried about or just carbon getting shot out?
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-30-2011, 12:44 AM
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Get the spray for the MAF. Use a Q-tip only if it's caked and the spray wont work.

I love my V8, but I'd love it more if all 8 cylinders worked. (they do now)

My T-bird is like George Jetson's wife, you try to give her a little money, she takes the whole wallet.
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-30-2011, 06:22 AM
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I have some free time so I decided I will clean the MAFS and was wondering if I need to know anything else in particular? I am thinking of getting a can of MAFS cleaner and compressed air (like I read on here, easier than the Q-Tip right?).

I would not used compressed air. The winding's are very delicate. The pressure from the can should be enough. Use the q-tip if necessary, be gentle.

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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-30-2011, 11:40 AM
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How deep do you want to go?

For a 95, I'd go with new Motorcraft plugs and wires, change the air filter, fuel filter, PCV valve, clean the MAF (as already stated), and clean the EGR passages in the intake as they are likely carboned up by now since the 95's have a habit of doing this. Keep in mind this requires removing parts from the very BACK of the upper intake in order to get to the passages and there is not a lot of room back there. Most people usually remove the plastic cowl around the wipers to get a little extra space.

Then of course you should also drop the trans. pan and replace the filter and drain all the fluid out that you can from the TC. IIRC, there should be a drain plug on the 95's still. Find that and drain the entire TC along w/ what you get from the pan drop. Then install new filter, close it up and refill with Mercon V, NOT Mercon III as the owners manual and dipstick states. Doing this will require around 14 quarts IIRC. Could also give it a mild j-mod while the pan is down, but this requires you to remove the valve body and drill the plate. Not knowing your level of experience I can only suggest.

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-30-2011, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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I have minimal experience and most of everything I do is first-time for me.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-30-2011, 03:11 PM
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Well in that case you may be best just to leave the j-mod off the list, or order a kit from RobertP which in that case it's just a swap IIRC. Personally I see no reason to NOT do it while you have the pan off already (unless your trans has a lot of miles on it). All you need is a bottle jack and a strong pair of snap ring pliers. I did my own j-mod way back when and I think I re-read the instructions 20 times as I went along, lol... Transmissions are not something I like to screw up. It worked great and still does, although other issues have since cooked that one. I've done 4 others since then and all of them turned out fine.

All the things I mentioned are easy enough for the beginner (excluding maybe the EGR passages) with basic hand tools. Get yourself a good Chiltons manual for it if you don't already have one as well.

The rest of the info can be found here by doing a search, or just asking one of us if you really get stuck.

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-30-2011, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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I have a Haynes manual and I'm also getting a Chilton manual through Amazon in a bit. Trying my hand at some body work today as well, my rockers were not done that great, they are solid and it passed inspection but looks ugly as hell. Got a large black rectangle on the bottom rear side skirt, testing my handy work on a piece of sheet metal before attempting it.

RobertP sells complete 4R70W swaps w/ j-mod?
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-30-2011, 03:53 PM
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Not sure on the entire transmission, but I believe he sells the pre-drilled valve bodies as a complete install kit then you just install the kit. Check out the drivetrain forum under 4R70W and see what is offered. BTW, the 95's are known to have weak trannys, so if yours has high miles on it I would start saving for a used one.

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-30-2011, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Mine has had a few clunks lately, I don't know if it's something like the TC or bolts getting loose there, but for example it shifted weird on one hill and I had a "clunk" is all I can describe it as. It has 128,000km.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-30-2011, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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On another question, would anyone recommend the underdrive pulleys from Super Coupe Performance and do they actually add 12 to 15 horsepower? I'm considering them, I need to replace mine anyway and don't want to pay $300 for JET.
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-30-2011, 08:50 PM
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Mine has had a few clunks lately, I don't know if it's something like the TC or bolts getting loose there, but for example it shifted weird on one hill and I had a "clunk" is all I can describe it as. It has 128,000km.
clunks could also be motor/trans mounts....

John
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-30-2011, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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It sounded like it was close to being in front of me or below me a bit so I assume that might be the issue.

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4.6L SOHC V8 | Main Project

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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-01-2011, 12:01 AM
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I wouldn't mess with UD pullys....but if you must, go with a set of STEEDA pullys, or at least make sure they are not the "piggyback" type.

As for the service manual, forget Haynes, or Chilton, get a ford factory (dealer) service manual. You can find them on ebay, they are thicker, more detailed, and all around flat out better than haynes or chilton, and I have had both, factory manual beats them hands down.

Also check the tailshaft housing bolts, they can back out over time and cause leaks and such...

Oh, another thing, if your suspension has any issues at all, fix it asap!!
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-01-2011, 01:23 AM
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Check the suspension section. There is a sticky at the top that will help out with clunking suspension issues.

Will

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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-01-2011, 10:59 AM
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Mine has had a few clunks lately, I don't know if it's something like the TC or bolts getting loose there, but for example it shifted weird on one hill and I had a "clunk" is all I can describe it as. It has 128,000km.
Can you describe this "shifted wierd"? At 79K miles I wouldn't think a whole lot could be wrong, but you never know.

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-01-2011, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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I have a squeek in the front as well and never changed some of the suspension parts, nothing in the rear for example. All I can describe it as like something "dropping" and "moving back" with no vibration or nothing.

Around this same time and also on other hills such as long inclines on a highway with overdrive ON (doesn't happen if I turn O/D off) the throttle will be non-responsive unless I push it to the floor or take my foot off and push it again. I don't know if those two things are connected or not.

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Last edited by Zanting; 07-01-2011 at 11:23 AM. Reason: Forgetful
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-01-2011, 11:36 AM
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You need to check your ball joints as they are a known weak spot on these cars. If it breaks you will be calling a tow truck and the wheel will tuck into the wheelwell, and not gently either.

The throttle response w/ OD on sounds about right. With OD on and the torque converter locked it takes a bit of throttle input for it to drop into 3rd and accelerate. I don't recall if the TC unlocks on a downshift from OD to 3rd or not.

I'd check your engine and trans. mounts and all the rear mounts for wear. Sounds like you may have a bad tranny mount.

Cleaning your MAF and if you feel like it, taking the TB off to clean it should help w/ the throttle response.

These motors really don't do much until they get into the higher revs unlike a standard pushrod motor. Low-end torque is somewhat lackluster in stock form.

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-05-2011, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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Durrr! Nearing next oil change and I noticed she's eaten at least 1 3/4 quarts, put some oil in and also topped off the coolant which was lower than the cold fill level since I bought the car. Never had any overheating issues though, but it's not heating up as fast now, good to have a huge fan. Seems to be running better, next onto cleaning the MAFS once I figure out how to get those dang star shaped bolts off.

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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-05-2011, 10:50 PM Thread Starter
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On another note my LX came with TCS and of course ABS brakes all round, both the TCS is continually "off" (can't turn it on) and the ABS light is always on.

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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-06-2011, 07:21 AM
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On another note my LX came with TCS and of course ABS brakes all round, both the TCS is continually "off" (can't turn it on) and the ABS light is always on.
TCS uses ABS to do the traction control, so I wouldn't worry about that until ABS is fixed.

As to those star shaped screws on the MAF - it's a Torx security bit. There's several sources for bits for it, but one that's usually cheap, if you have a Harbor Freight around, is http://www.harborfreight.com/100-pie...set-91310.html (WAY overkill, but nice to have). You can also find kits like this one http://www.harborfreight.com/33-piec...set-93388.html for down to $3 if you look around.

RwP
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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-06-2011, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
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Alright thanks I'm going to have to go find one of those kits.

My ABS/TCS issue only started after I got my rocker panels done. All I can assume is that a sensor got knocked or wiring got cut somewhere, if that's even possible, while they worked on the car.

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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-08-2011, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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Bought a bit set which was on sale and got the MAFS sensor out, cleaned it with appropriately named cleaner, I got some gunk off one of the pillars that holds the wire but one of the tiny wires does have some grime/browning to it, I could not get this off with the Q-Tip.

Noticed a much much better idle later going for coffee at work, especially with some cooler air tonight, sounds great.

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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-12-2011, 08:36 PM
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I have a Haynes manual and I'm also getting a Chilton manual through Amazon in a bit.
Please don't. They are quite literally worthless.

Spend the money, invest in the actual HELM manual if HELM makes one for a 95 or other actual service manual.

When Doing any work yourself, this is an invaluable tool and well worth the money.

Rest In Peace Mom.
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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-13-2011, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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Found the set of both shop manual and electrical book on eBay for $35. Might look locally for one in some book stores too.

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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-13-2011, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
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Bought a bit set which was on sale and got the MAFS sensor out, cleaned it with appropriately named cleaner, I got some gunk off one of the pillars that holds the wire but one of the tiny wires does have some grime/browning to it, I could not get this off with the Q-Tip.

Noticed a much much better idle later going for coffee at work, especially with some cooler air tonight, sounds great.
Take out your maf every day after you get home, let it cool, and continually try to clean it with a tip or anything soft until you do get it sparkling clean. It will be one less thing you need to worry about if your car acts up in the future, and it will make future cleanings easier. Not to mention it's the single most important sensor on your car.
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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-13-2011, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
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I'm on it and I'm gonna tackle cleaning the TB and inspect some of the EGR valve and IAC, once I figure out how/where.. I am also certain my TPS is acting up because I have issues where the engine will continue to rev up slowly and build speed even up hills without touching the throttle at all. Can I clean this with electrical contact cleaner?

I checked out some bushings and boots in the rear and they are very obviously both cracked and worn out, rear suspension wasn't worked on at all when I got the car...

Only thing got done when I got the car was:
  • Springs (Front)
  • Monroe Struts (Front)
  • LF Tie Rod End

And that is it. Which seems bad considering along with brakes and an alignment I payed about $1,000 for that.

Been having stability issues lately and I did have to take the old road home after pulling off the highway, it's getting jerky and shaky in the rear and front.

I also have a "clunk" when I turn at certain angles both left and right.

On the note of ball joints and other suspension components, would you guys recommend MOOG parts and also Prothane Polyurethane bushings and boots? I'm thinking it's imperative I tackle this soon.

I'm getting KYB set of Shocks/Struts and possibly get some MOOG springs all around which I'll paint before installation. If I get my membership does TCCoA still offer the discount at "SHOX" which carries KYB products? I was reading another topic which indicated that not a lot of the discounts are available anymore.

***Update***

Took her for a challenging drive down Peggy's Cove through East Dover to the city, basically it is a winding road along the coast with varying speed limits (ex. 80 km/h to 25 km/h sharp turns, etc, vice versa) and took about an hour. Transmission or TC showed some signs of impending failure from what I can tell. Holding about 80 km/h near the end of the drive in O/D felt like it was about to implode and started rocking the car. Don't know if it was due to overheating of the transmission or possibly the band starting to self-destruct?

Perhaps it's time for a better transmission.

1995 Ford Thunderbird LX
4.6L SOHC V8 | Main Project

Clear Corner Signal Lights, New Headlights

Last edited by Zanting; 07-14-2011 at 04:47 PM.
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