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post #1 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-30-2011, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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Oil pan drain plug stuck

This is weird.....last time my oil was changed,i had it done at work...the previous oil change, I did myself. Now,i am trying to get the oil pan drain plug off, using an 18mm ratcheting wrench. The drain plug is now loose -I can spin it with my finger, and oil is dripping out, but the plug is not really backing out at all, could the thread be screwed up?

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post #2 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-30-2011, 06:44 PM
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Can you retighten it snug? Yeah its possible someone stripped your threads but you need a breaker bar to go that far. Hmm yeah I need to tighten this little bolts oh I know a 2 ft breaker bar will be perfect or what there is this impact gun hehe...just thinking some moron tech would try that at least once.

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post #3 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-30-2011, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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So does the oil pan need to be replaced? I think I feel a motor swap coming on

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post #4 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-30-2011, 09:08 PM
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So does the oil pan need to be replaced? I think I feel a motor swap coming on
No I think its possible to recut new threads but the pan should come out.

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post #5 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-30-2011, 09:47 PM
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Did you verify it wasn't the plug that was screwed up? They seem to be softer than normal bolts. You might need to GENTLY pry it away from the pan while turning it, something plastic so you can't put too much pressure on it.

My neighbor got sick of paying to get his oil changed, so he decided to do it himself. He had to borrow my 3 foot long breaker bar, the 1 1/2 foot long 1/2 drive ratchet didn't help over using a wrench! It was very obvious that it was improperly installed after the last oil change. The crush washer/seal it has was 3 times the diameter of the one he bought to replace it, and it was copper.

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post #6 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-30-2011, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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I did not verify what the actual problem was...I could not get the drain plug off, and I could not get it tight...right now there is a very slow leak from the drain plug, a very small occasional drip, which sucks, this car doesn't leak anything.

It could just be the drain plug...so if I stick like a small screwdriver between the plug and the pan and loosen it should come out?

If the pan has to be removed to be re-tapped for, I am assuming a larger plug, it would seem the motor would have to come out, or at least be lifted up somewhat to get the pan out from between the suspension where it sits...

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post #7 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-30-2011, 11:08 PM
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You could retap the pan while still on the motor, however you NEED to be absolutely positive that there is no metal shavings left in the pan when you are done. Or kaboom!

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post #8 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-30-2011, 11:13 PM
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Dont plan before you know the facts.

Clamp visegrips on the head. Grab them right at the jaws and pull away hard and even to try to engage the threads.

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post #9 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-30-2011, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
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Dont plan before you know the facts.

Clamp visegrips on the head. Grab them right at the jaws and pull away hard and even to try to engage the threads.
If that works, after the drain plug is out, should I just try to replace the drain plug?

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post #10 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-30-2011, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
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If that works, after the drain plug is out, should I just try to replace the drain plug?
Yep, double the crush washers just to be safe. I always tighten critical bolts like that with my thumb and index fingers around the ratchet body. IOW, choked up far as you can go.
Ask aty parts store for 'repair plugs'. But check that they are just slightly oversize, not ones that tap all new threads.

If you're worried about metal shavings, get a magnet wrap for your oil filter.

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post #11 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-30-2011, 11:27 PM
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when you get it out check the threads they might be ok or wrong plug or something; if not you will have to re-tap it. pour 2qts or so fresh oil through your car after u retap it to get the shavings out

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post #12 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-31-2011, 12:14 AM
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Something like this happened to my sister's Civic. Jiffy Lube cross threaded the bolt, so instead of telling us, they packed it with JB Weld and RTV. We had no idea until we took it to another service place to do the oil, they said "we're not getting into that mess". 3 days later the trans died, (obviously unrelated)

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post #13 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-31-2011, 12:38 PM
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when you get it out check the threads they might be ok or wrong plug or something; if not you will have to re-tap it. pour 2qts or so fresh oil through your car after u retap it to get the shavings out
Not to start a bicker but that's unlikely to work. find an old engine pan, clean it, throw some shavings in it then pour some oil in and watch what happens.

If it were me, I'd do almost anything to avoid a four hour job. But pulling pan to fix it is the best way to go for a purist.

First >>I<< would look close to see where threads were stripped, if it's on plug no problem, if not or partially, try a new plug with extra washer and only change oil myself.
SECOND: {assuming steel pan} If you can find a strong magnet use hi-temp rtv to fasten it under a protected corner of pan, use magnetic drain plug, magnet around oil filter.

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post #14 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-31-2011, 01:54 PM
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yea... it will get some of the shavings out but you need a magnet(s) to get rest out or remove whole pan; good luck

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post #15 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-31-2011, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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Do our cars have a steel our an aluminum pan? Is there a nut welded on the inside of the pan, or is the inside of the opening of the pan itself threaded?

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post #16 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-31-2011, 03:18 PM
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As far as I know we have a steel pan, threaded into the opening itself. More importantly the last place to touch it is responsible for this. Take it back to your work and make them fix it.

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post #17 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-31-2011, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks....yes they are responsible...i am officially done with letting shops touch my stuff for things I can do myself...i am hesitant to say anything,i don't want to start any trouble, but we will see. I jammed a screwdriver between the pan and the plug and that seemed to engage the threads a bit...i am letting the oil drain...slowly then I will get the old plug out. I bought a new plug, hopefully it will just thread in without any problems

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post #18 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-31-2011, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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I managed to get a screwdriver between the plug and pan, and it poped right out. After the oil drained, I looked at the plug. No threads ay all-smooth metal


I hope the threads in the pan are still there

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post #19 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-31-2011, 04:15 PM
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dam that sucks; if it's stripped you can install a time-sert if you are not going to replace the pan

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post #20 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-31-2011, 04:36 PM
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I would guess your okay as far as the pan is concerned. I have not seen an aftermarket replacement drain plug like that, but the factory Ford one from Ford is...like 10 bucks. It is a better setup, with a machined slot and an o-ring.

That drain plug has been abused for sure!

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post #21 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-31-2011, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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The threads in the pan itself looked and felt good to me...dui I slowly threaded the new plug in...out went in ok...new plug is a bit longer, and is 17mm, stock plug was 18mm



Now to get the filter off...its hot, its on petty tight, and I haven't done this in a year, seems I have forgotten the trick to gripping it. I am tempted to go pick up a filter wrench, but I know its doable without one,i think I'll just let it cool down a bit more.

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post #22 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-31-2011, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
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The threads in the pan itself looked and felt good to me...dui I slowly threaded the new plug in...out went in ok...new plug is a bit longer, and is 17mm, stock plug was 18mm
Did I not tell you not to plan for worst until you found the facts? They call that 'borrowing trouble'.
Quote:

Now to get the filter off...its hot, its on petty tight, and I haven't done this in a year, seems I have forgotten the trick to gripping it. I am tempted to go pick up a filter wrench, but I know its doable without one,i think I'll just let it cool down a bit more.
wet shop rag, wrap hand around from side - thumb opposing, pull with fingers toward direction of your thumb.

Filter wrenches are to take them off, not put them on. Which concept I bet the shop that installed it did not follow. And why you should have one... just in case you have to take off a shop installed filter.
This kind, handy for other uses, too:


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post #23 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-31-2011, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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I got the filter off, took me a while, but once I got my hand in the correct position it was easy....i remember now

Btw, typing this out on my phone occasionally, it assumes or auto corrects and says weird stuff, before I catch it

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post #24 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-31-2011, 05:39 PM
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When all I had was a basic wrench set the first time I ever changed my oil my filter was too tight to get by hand I used a leather belt as a strap wrench, with the right angle it will come loose, leverage works. Now-a-days I have 6 different swivel oil filter band wrenches as well as an assortment of filter cups, filter pliers, and a real strap wrench. Like someone else mentioned only hand tighten the filter.

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post #25 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-31-2011, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, all is done, all is good, no leaks. Next time, I won't be fighting the mistakes of others, so, next oil change will be easy, like the last time I did it myself. Thanks to everyone who helped with this

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post #26 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-31-2011, 07:52 PM
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I don't think what you took out was the original. They are closer to what you replaced it with, but with an o-ring instead of a gasket. The one that got jacked up is a joke, the one you using to replace it is better for sure.

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post #27 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-31-2011, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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I don't think what you took out was the original. They are closer to what you replaced it with, but with an o-ring instead of a gasket. The one that got jacked up is a joke, the one you using to replace it is better for sure.
Interesting...yeah I don't know what the history of the plug i removed was...While we're on this topic, does anybody have any experiance with, those oil pan drain plug replacement valves? I like the idea of being able to thread a hose onto the end of it and drain right into a catch pan, milk jug, etc. with no mess

Also, I am seriously considering a filter re-location kit. Has anybody experianced any downside to running them, such as lower oil pressure, etc.? Also, with an oil relocation kit, can stock motocraft filters still be used? How about a dual filter kit? Seems like that would allow for longer oil change intervals, a bit more oil, a bit more oil cooling, etc. Along with less mess

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post #28 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-31-2011, 09:27 PM
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Most of those valves are taller than I would care to see hanging off the side of my oil pan, I drag all sorts of fun stuff being lowered with low profile tires though.

Most of the filter relocation kits use the Motorcraft FL1A filter(s), which is larger than the FL820S but doesn't have the silicone ADBV. The ability to change the filter without being a contortionist or leaving the rim of the K member and steering rack full of oil would be enough reason for me to add a remote filter kit!

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post #29 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-31-2011, 09:35 PM
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Interesting...yeah I don't know what the history of the plug i removed was...While we're on this topic, does anybody have any experiance with, those oil pan drain plug replacement valves? I like the idea of being able to thread a hose onto the end of it and drain right into a catch pan, milk jug, etc. with no mess

Also, I am seriously considering a filter re-location kit. Has anybody experianced any downside to running them, such as lower oil pressure, etc.? Also, with an oil relocation kit, can stock motocraft filters still be used? How about a dual filter kit? Seems like that would allow for longer oil change intervals, a bit more oil, a bit more oil cooling, etc. Along with less mess
Race cars use reloc's. Sez it all.
But bigger/more Filter wouldnt really affect recommended oil change interval. That is dictated by ph of the lube... unless it's mighty dusty where you are.
And what others said, ever see a plug that had been dragged? I have.

Now that is a project for when you have the pan off.. mount on the side with a tube to bottom of sump.

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post #30 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-31-2011, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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My car is not lowered any more, but might be low again at some point, if I can find another car to use as a daily driver. So I guess I won't do the drain valve...filter relocation is a possibility, but honestly, thinking about it now, once I remembered how I used to do it, I had the old filter out and the new filter in very quickly.

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