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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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Another AC question

When I put my AC on in my 96 T-bird w/ auto climate control it does not blow any cold air. Below is what I have checked/found out.

-Checked for codes, screen said -188
-Hooked up gauge to low pressure side and the compressor kicks on, builds to ~45psi, then it kicks off and drops to 0, then kicks back on and builds back up to 45. It does that over and over.
-When I jump the low pressure side switch it reads up to ~60 psi and still no cold air.
-Condensation builds up on the lines under the hood.

Am I just low on refridgerant? I didnt want to add any since it makes 60psi when the low pressure side switch is jumped.

Thanks for any help, sick of sweating my a$$ off in this weather...haha
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 08:28 PM
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Something sounds weird, the pressure on the low side should read average 40-50 PSI (depends on temperature), and as the pressure drops under 20-25ish the compressor should disengage until the pressure rises to above 40 again. It should never read 0 unless the system is empty.

-Brandon
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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sorry, just checked it again. It drops down to about 18psi. Its about 90 degrees and humid here right now.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 09:11 PM
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Yeah, that's looks normal for a system that's practically empty. You have dried out, leaky o-rings and/or a leaky heat exchanger causing a leak.
You should see about 45-55 PSI (depending on humidity) for low 90s.

-Brandon
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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filling it now and the air is getting cold. I guess ive got a leak somewhere.

Oh well, Ill cross my finger and hopefully it is cold tomorrow. If not, this heap is gonna be gone by next summer...haha
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 09:26 PM
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Replacing the O-rings is a 15 minute job, just make sure you have the right sizes on hand. Nylog blue is also amazing stuff to use on the o-rings when assembling.

If you do the O-rings yourself, do it quickly and get the system to vacuum ASAP. There's a desiccant in the accumulator that will become saturated if it's exposed to moisture for too long. Once that happens it can't dry the residual moisture in the closed a/c system, and moisture in the system (usually coming from what's been absorbed by the PAG oil, which sucks up moisture in the air like a sponge) reacts with the refrigerant to create hydrochloric acid. HCl loves to eat aluminum, which means you'll have holes in your system in no time. Best way to avoid that is to just replace the accumulator.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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Ill have to do a good inspection after this fill to look for oil seepage around the connections. Hopefully there is an obvious one so I can fix it quick. I just use the fuel line disconnect tool to pull the unions/fittings apart, correct?

Thanks for the info, appreciate it! There is a shop right across the street so ill just give them a call before I tackle this project so i can get them to evacuate/recharge the system.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyBird46 View Post
Ill have to do a good inspection after this fill to look for oil seepage around the connections. Hopefully there is an obvious one so I can fix it quick. I just use the fuel line disconnect tool to pull the unions/fittings apart, correct?

Thanks for the info, appreciate it! There is a shop right across the street so ill just give them a call before I tackle this project so i can get them to evacuate/recharge the system.
If you're recharging using those off-the-shelf cans, grab some with a UV dye oil in it. Then you can use a UV light to find where the leak is at. Run the a/c for a little and check for leaks afterward. The dye won't be visible for too long (a few days), and unless there's a massive leak you typically can't see the oil seepage at a leak point.

-Brandon
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 11:18 PM
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We dont want more than 50 psi on the low side while charging with the cans.

My AC runs at 30 psi low, 220-250 on the high side.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCTbird1994 View Post
We dont want more than 50 psi on the low side while charging with the cans.

My AC runs at 30 psi low, 220-250 on the high side.
This!!! But it depends on the respective air temps.

A good way to find connection / o-ring leaks is to use child's bubble blowing solution* and a cheap scratch brush {like a paint but coarse bristle} and dab around all the connections. works better than a sniffer for those and I have a sniffer.

*or 1 part cheap shampoo to 3 parts water

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