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post #1 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-04-2011, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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t-bird about to die?

my car the last few days has been running pretty sh*tty, it acts like its struggling when picking up speed from 0-40,at about 50 it runs okay i guess. today it acts like it wants to shut off, when i press on the gas it acts like its chocking out,the rpm needle will go up and down, then when i go pedal to the metal it revs up like it normally would sometimes, and sometimes its like bogging out or something.

when in idle it even acts like its kinda chocking out a bit.

my friend thinks its the fuel pump but i had replaced that a few months back.

i did however delete the two front cats on the exhaust.

what could this be?

i checked the air filter which looks new, and cleaned the maf.

im scared it may be the engine dying, but not making the usual loud engine noises a motor about to go would make.

could it be something clogged up? i checked to see if some one put a potato or something in my exhaust but no go, also checked to see if something was stuck in the air intake,but nothing.

air silencer removed, dorman intake manifold,clear corner lights,psp with psp windshield mount,blue led moded gauge cluster.
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post #2 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-04-2011, 01:26 PM
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Engines just dont DIE ... they wear out from Lack of Maintenance or somebody messing with things like cutting off the catalytic converters ( without a tune ? ) .. those rear o2 sensors are tripping out and you probably have a Check Engine light. FYI .. cutting off the cats doesnt get you more Horsepower, it just makes problems.

Scan the codes, do a Fuel pressure test.
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post #3 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-04-2011, 01:28 PM
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RPM needle bouncing around and engine struggling sounds like crank sensor.

-Brandon
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post #4 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-04-2011, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
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could it be something like spark plugs or a clogged up fuel filter? i replaced the spark plugs and wires about 8 months ago, but tonight i pulled them out and tried cleaning them, they were all corroded looking, i cleaned all the little chunks off of them and put them back in, it seemed to run a little better, but still struggling from 0-40, but once i get it up to speed it smooths out a little.

i replaced the fuel filter about 4-5 months back.

it seems like its either fuel starved or not firing correctly.

air silencer removed, dorman intake manifold,clear corner lights,psp with psp windshield mount,blue led moded gauge cluster.
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post #5 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-04-2011, 09:40 PM
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Fuel starving does not make the tach erratic.

You should have a check engine light if it's running that bad. Does it turn on with initial key-on?

Corroded plug wires in under a year sounds weird, too. Did you buy the cheapest available? You're gonna have to replace them anyway, start there but I agree sound like the CPS.

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post #6 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-04-2011, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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yeah i do have a check engine light on, but i dont have a code reader anymore, the spark plugs were autolite double platinums i bought at autozone one day, so it is sounding like the cps? should i pull it off and clean the contacts on it first or just get a new one?

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post #7 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-05-2011, 07:20 AM
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With crank sensors it seems like the connection goes awry as often as the sensor itself fails, so clean and check the connection first, then go from there. And before you ask, you can get it out by unbolting the compressor. You don't have to remove it or discharge the system.

-Brandon
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post #8 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-05-2011, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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With crank sensors it seems like the connection goes awry as often as the sensor itself fails, so clean and check the connection first, then go from there. And before you ask, you can get it out by unbolting the compressor. You don't have to remove it or discharge the system.
lol, i was actually about to ask about that thanks for helping guys!

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post #9 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-05-2011, 10:51 AM
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what is your fuel pressure at idle, and once you get going?

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post #10 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-05-2011, 12:28 PM
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I'd get the codes read before making another move.

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1994 Super Coupe ('93 5.0L swap), 1990 Tbird 3.8L, 1982 Honda CB900F, 1972 F-100 SportCustom 4x4, 1970 Chevy Custom Camper / 20
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post #11 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-05-2011, 01:03 PM
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post #12 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-05-2011, 05:05 PM
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Damn I wish I had learned about the CPS before I had to pay a shop a sh*t load to swap it out, and they did disconnect and recharge the AC. I guess you live and learn my CPS made the car hard to start. But my AC had never been serviced to my knowledge so I guess it would have needed it one day.

Spinning pies like wheels.

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Now with new ball joints...again
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post #13 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-06-2011, 03:36 PM
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Dan pulled my motor out without discharging the AC lol. Just unbolt it and push it to the side. I wonder though if the service manual tells you to discharge and remove it. I don't have mine here with me. Check it out Tim, if it doesn't go back and have them take it off the bill.

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post #14 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-06-2011, 03:41 PM
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Dan pulled my motor out without discharging the AC lol. Just unbolt it and push it to the side. I wonder though if the service manual tells you to discharge and remove it. I don't have mine here with me. Check it out Tim, if it doesn't go back and have them take it off the bill.
That's cake on a 3.8. Different thing.

I disagree about the 'never been serviced' bit. The less A/c's been or needed serviced, the less likely it is to fail or need service.

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post #15 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-06-2011, 03:50 PM
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Yes there is way more room on a 3.8 and yes the AC is one of those things you just leave it alone if it works.

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post #16 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-06-2011, 08:16 PM
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I couldnt say the 3.8 or the 4.6 is easier to work on. They sure are different, but you can only rate difficulty based on what you are comfortable with. While the 3.8 compressor replacement is easier for your everyday home mechanic - I wouldnt mind doing the 4.6 as I could charge more labor hours for a relatively easy project.

True with the 3.8 NA's and SC's, the AC compressor can be unbolted and tied off to the fender without discharging the system.

The 4.6 can also be unbolted to loosen it - although if you want to totally remove it, I have found it necessary to lift the engine to remove the one or two problem bolts as they hit the inner frame rail. If the engine is removed from the vehicle, the AC compressor just sits on the K-member .. it does not need to be discharged either.

Typically the compressor doesnt need to be changed unless there was a catastrophic failure in the system, in which case you might be doing more than just a compressor replacement anyways.

As for the Crankshaft sensor on a 4.6 .. it is not necessary to remove the AC compressor if you are familuar with the setup and can improvise with tools. But even in the case you needed to unbolt it to gain a little more clearance, it is not necessary to discharge the system to up some more room.
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post #17 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-07-2011, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
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okay,i drove my car all the way from port st lucie florida to elizabeth city,nc yesterday(830 miles), i barely made it.
scan some codes, tell me what you think:

p1443
p1150
p1151
p0171

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post #18 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-07-2011, 11:50 AM
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1443 - covered many times on this site, do a few searches on the code. Generally it's either replace the EVAP vacuum lines, sensor, or solenoid. You can test the solenoid.

0171, 1150 and 1151 - means the system is so lean on the passenger side it can't adapt.

At this point I'd pull and read all the plugs. Take pictures and report back.

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post #19 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-07-2011, 11:52 AM
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02 sensors for 1150,1151 but probably from cutting the cats off.

For 1443 start here.
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.p...ght=evap+purge

check the vacuum lines first.

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post #20 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-08-2011, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCTbird1994 View Post

Scan the codes, do a Fuel pressure test.
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what is your fuel pressure at idle, and once you get going?
well?

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post #21 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-08-2011, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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i don't know i don't have a fuel pressure gauge, i did sea foam the car then reset the codes, then one code came back so far..p0171 system too lean on bank 1.

going outside now to tinker with anything fuel related i guess.

air silencer removed, dorman intake manifold,clear corner lights,psp with psp windshield mount,blue led moded gauge cluster.
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post #22 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-08-2011, 01:21 PM
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get a hose and a gauge, run it fron the schrader vavle, and watch what it does under load.

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post #23 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-08-2011, 01:49 PM
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sorry double post.
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post #24 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-08-2011, 01:50 PM
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i don't know i don't have a fuel pressure gauge, i did sea foam the car then reset the codes, then one code came back so far..p0171 system too lean on bank 1.

going outside now to tinker with anything fuel related i guess.
Sea foam isnt going to fix a check engine light - they will all come back.

Fuel pressure test .. but I doubt it - your pump is only a few months old ?

Your o2 sensor could be reading lean if there is an exhaust leak where you removed the cats and welded them back up. Im guessing you dont have a smoke machine either ?
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post #25 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-08-2011, 03:20 PM
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i don't know i don't have a fuel pressure gauge, i did sea foam the car then reset the codes, then one code came back so far..p0171 system too lean on bank 1.

going outside now to tinker with anything fuel related i guess.
http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-in...ter-92699.html

20 freakin bucks! I tdoesnt have to be super accurate. It only needs to be a good reference. Just check against any other decent running ford.

Hey got a friend with a 4.3L blazer? bet he has one.. almost compulsory on that 59 lb system.

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post #26 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-08-2011, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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Sea foam isnt going to fix a check engine light - they will all come back.

Fuel pressure test .. but I doubt it - your pump is only a few months old ?

Your o2 sensor could be reading lean if there is an exhaust leak where you removed the cats and welded them back up. Im guessing you dont have a smoke machine either ?
after researching the code p0171 i started trouble shooting, once again i cleaned my maf, i cleaned and check pvc and stuff, then realized i have REALLY BAD exhaust leaks on my passanger side exhaust, i didnt weld up my pipes i just used clamps, so now im gonna go outside and fix that, see if that is the problem. i will say that i deleted the cats maybe 6-7 months back, had no problems until now, so im not so sure thats the problem.

so far i changed spark plugs, replaced a couple hoses,cleaned maf and many other sensors,checked and cleaned the pvc stuff,and seafoamed the living **** outta it.

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post #27 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-08-2011, 03:58 PM
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Yea but you never know, if you just used clamps it could have been tight when you put it back together but apparently vibrated loose. So you didn't see the effect until it came loose. You could always take it to a muffler shop and see what they'll charge you to weld it up.

Keep looking, you'll find it eventually.

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post #28 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-08-2011, 06:59 PM
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Hey got a friend with a 4.3L blazer? bet he has one.. almost compulsory on that 59 lb system.
Yeah I dont think its fair to make comparisons like this. Ive changed just as many fuel pumps in Chevys as Fords, Jaguar's and Volvo's .. the real issue is determining if the pump is in fact bad by doing a fuel pressure test before making a guess and throwing more parts at it. I also own a 4.3L S10 Blazer, what did you need to know about it ?

The OP could also run it on a scanner and look up the Fuel trims if he had the right equipment. I thought Autozone rents Fuel pressure gauges also.

x2 on the clamps .. if they worked themselves loose, time to tighten everything back up.
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post #29 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-08-2011, 07:14 PM
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.. I also own a 4.3L S10 Blazer, what did you need to know about it ?
.
.
I dont think I could stand to know more than I'm learning already...

I am getting over my arachnophobia, though.. I think it's gas. heh..
Quote:
.. I thought Autozone rents Fuel pressure gauges also.
....
Hey.. that's right. Good idea.

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I do it just because I still want to know HOW and WHY!!! Quit learning=die. Be informed as to WHAT, rather than learn,=brain-dead already.
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post #30 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-08-2011, 10:26 PM
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Hey.. that's right. Good idea.
.. my thoughts on the Chevy fuel systems:

The pump on the later years is in a submersible bucket ( 98+ I believe ) that is meant to help cool the pump. These pumps are cooled internally and externally in the tank - it is very important to not let the fuel get below a certain level.

I have replaced both the early and late fuel pump types across a few different models, ie. silverado, trailblazer, s10 truck, s10 blazer, suburban, etc.. I only use the AC delco parts for replacement, nothing else. My Chevy parts guy in Texas tends to get me around the same or slightly lower prices on OEM than the local parts stores for aftermarket - no warranty, but I havent had a "repeat" failure either.

I have had to replace the sending units for the fuel level floats also - the ones made before 07 had tiny wires on the contacts that could possibly get bent out of shape ( I dont know how they physically bend, just that they dont work after this - and on some of these later models it causes a Check engine light also ) These tend to cost about $100 where the whole pump module w/ bucket and new level module, etc .. is a little under $400 including the filter and shipping.

The last chevy pump I replaced wasnt exactly "bad" it was more along the lines of our dying Ford ones - it had a bad check valve or the internal mechanism wouldnt hold pressure .. ie; when you crank it, you had to crank and crank to build fuel pressure to start, when you let the key go, it went back down to 0 PSI. For the longest time the customer put it off until it started cutting out on the freeway at higher speeds - new pump fixed the hard start condition also.

Injectors - about 20 years ago these were replaced all the time. Not so much nowadays, the number of injector replacements have gone down significantly, especially in states like California where fuel is regulated ( California law says that all fuels need detergents in them ) .. my thoughts, use Fuel injector cleaner if your state does not have fuel regulations in place. Otherwise, fuel injector / system cleaner is a waste of money in California. I honestly never have had to replace a single fuel injector unless it was to upgrade to a larger #

.. like I said on the Fuel pumps, the last replacement I did was on a Turbo Volvo. First, the kid drives the car - the Oil light comes on and never puts any oil into it. The engine develops a rod knock, so I fixed that with a new engine. Then he runs out of Fuel. It was completely empty, puts another 2 gallons in, wont start. no fuel pressure .. bad fuel pump. My thoughts .. he cooked it running it dry - I didnt physically take the motor apart, just tossed it in the trash and went with a brand new replacement.

But yes I do believe that maintaining a constant supply of fuel in your tank is critical for the life of the pump itself. But the Chevy ones are typical to go bad before 100k miles whereas most Fords (Walbro) last well over 150k
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