Q: Ignition Wire for Killswitch identification help - 95 Thunderbird 3.8L V6
I've finally gotten around to installing the killswitch on my "track car" for the 24 Hours of Lemons. The ignition switch has been detached from the key so I have easy access to the wires behind it.
Q: Which wire to I attach the switch on so that disconnecting it will kill the power to the ignition coil?
2) Autozone.com's wiring diagram shows black/light-green being connected to the wiper motor and red/light-green being connected to the alternator (they call it the "generator".)
This means the red/light-green is the wire I want to have the kill-switch interrupt, right?
NOTE: I will also appropriately connect the kill switch to disconnect the battery (2 GA wire) and shunt any stray voltage from the alternator through a resistor to ground (12gauge wire, more than enough for the 11W the resistor is rated to discharge).
That would be the Red / Light green wiring ... all goes to the #3 Fuse. The diagram above is missing the part where it branches off before going to the Alternator.
Since the killswitch is in the cabin, I was hoping to find the wire in the cabin that I could interrupt. I'll try with the red/lt-green wire. If not, I'll reconnect that wire and cut it right at the alternator (where I know it should cause the car to die).
As for the suggestion about a fuel cut. While the Lemons rules don't give a specific guideline other than the car must die when running at 3000 RPM, anecdotal comments on their forum say that the engine must die within 3 sec of the switch being flipped in order to pass tech inspection.
I have a fuel cut in the car now (rewired the internal switch to the main switch panel) and I'm 99% sure that it takes longer than 3 sec for the car to sputter and die.
As SCTbird94 commented and I initially thought, interrupting the red/lt-green wire will kill the power to the ignition coil. I should have the killswitch installed shortly and will be one step closer to racing in Oct!