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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-24-2015, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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Hi guys, I recently had the passenger seat in my 89 ls come loose on one corner like the bolt broke. So I removed the whole seat and lifted the carpet and... Oh my God the entire brace on the floor pan is completely gone, just totally rusted away! I scooped out several cups of rust flakes that used to be the brace (not sure what it's actually called, the steel part that rises off the floor pan that the seat bolts to) It is completely rotted away. This car has always leaked, I think around the windshield seal but not sure. Sometimes when it rains there will be a wet spot on the floor on the drivers and passenger sides. At this point I'm not sure what to do, I was hoping the bolt had just rusted a hole in the brace and I could make some sort of backing plate to bolt to but there's nothing left to work with. The floor pan is still intact although it has Rust on the top side. I took a couple of pictures I'll see if I can post them. I'm thinking the best thing to do is to weld another brace in there but I'm worried that the floor pan is too thin from the Rust on the top side once I get that off with a wire wheel. I've heard that some people use 3M body panel adhesive in place of welding, I guess it's supposed to be stronger that welding but I've never used that before. Sorry for the long post, I just really hate that this happened and now I'm driving around in a car without a passenger seat lol. Thanks in advance for any advice you guys might have.

Regards,
Alex

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Last edited by Rodeo Joe; 12-24-2015 at 01:57 PM. Reason: Merged posts
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-24-2015, 02:10 PM
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Wow! I've seen them rust before and pull the threaded area out where the seat bolts in, but I've never seen one completely gone like that before! Before anything, I would wire-wheel it to see just what you have to work with underneath, and if the floorpan is still salvagable, go cut another brace off a parts car in the junkyard and weld it in. The panel bond adhesive is good stuff, but it is expensive, and if the floorpan is rusted through to the point that you can't weld to it, then the panel bond will simply pull a chunk of the floor with it if stressed.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-24-2015, 03:18 PM
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Zander, this may not be the source of your leak, but it is worth checking into it. Recently I had some re-tinting done on my car. The fellow who worked on it used to work at a Ford dealership when the 1989 birds came on the market. He said one of his main jobs was repairing a leak entering the cabin under the wiper cowl. He said he simply removed the cowl, laid an adequate section of plastic, (I'm assuming visqueen), reinstalled the cowl, and the leak stopped.

If you think the leak is coming in around the windshield, open your door and watch to see if any water enters while running hose water all over it.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-24-2015, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I couldn't believe how the entire thing was just gone lol. I'll wire wheel it and see what I'm up against, I have a friend who does body work that uses that adhesive but I didn't know if it'd be right for this application. Crossing my fingers that there's enough to work with. The floor pans aren't rusted at all underneath from the outside so I'm hopeful.

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Zander, this may not be the source of your leak, but it is worth checking into it. Recently I had some re-tinting done on my car. The fellow who worked on it used to work at a Ford dealership when the 1989 birds came on the market. He said one of his main jobs was repairing a leak entering the cabin under the wiper cowl. He said he simply removed the cowl, laid an adequate section of plastic, (I'm assuming visqueen), reinstalled the cowl, and the leak stopped.

If you think the leak is coming in around the windshield, open your door and watch to see if any water enters while running hose water all over it.
You know what I wouldn't be at all surprised if that's where it's leaking I'll have to try that plastic idea, I'll have a friend sit inside and see if he can see where the leaks coming from that's a good idea thanks.

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Wow! I've seen them rust before and pull the threaded area out where the seat bolts in, but I've never seen one completely gone like that before! Before anything, I would wire-wheel it to see just what you have to work with underneath, and if the floorpan is still salvagable, go cut another brace off a parts car in the junkyard and weld it in. The panel bond adhesive is good stuff, but it is expensive, and if the floorpan is rusted through to the point that you can't weld to it, then the panel bond will simply pull a chunk of the floor with it if stressed.
I have a feeling if I tried to get a junkyard piece it'll probably be rusted to, do you know if you can buy just that part to weld in? I'm not really sure what it's called to be honest.

Last edited by Rodeo Joe; 12-25-2015 at 06:21 AM. Reason: Merged posts
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-24-2015, 08:36 PM
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Unless the car in the junkyard had the same interior leak, the one from a junk car would probably be OK. I highly doubt you would be able to buy that piece new, it was probably serviced with the entire floor when Ford did sell it. If you can't find one in good shape, it wouldn't be too hard to make something to replace it, since all it has to do is hold the seat to the floor.

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-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, and ported big valve heads
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-90 SC Automatic rustbucket winter beater
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-24-2015, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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Unless the car in the junkyard had the same interior leak, the one from a junk car would probably be OK. I highly doubt you would be able to buy that piece new, it was probably serviced with the entire floor when Ford did sell it. If you can't find one in good shape, it wouldn't be too hard to make something to replace it, since all it has to do is hold the seat to the floor.
Yeah I was thinking of making something but since there's nothing left to go by I'll have to wing it I guess, I tried to find a picture of what is supposed to look like but no such luck. I'd take the other seat out but I'm afraid that it's rusted too and I'll break something.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-24-2015, 11:20 PM
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I have the interior out of my cougar. I'll take some good pictures of it on Sunday for you.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, and ported big valve heads
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-90 SC Automatic rustbucket winter beater
-97 Tbird Sport 4.6 Nice weather daily driver
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-25-2015, 01:56 AM Thread Starter
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I have the interior out of my cougar. I'll take some good pictures of it on Sunday for you.
That would be awesome I really appreciate it, thanks!
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
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I have the interior out of my cougar. I'll take some good pictures of it on Sunday for you.
Just curious if you ever took those pictures, if not no big deal.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-05-2016, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by MadMikeyL View Post
Wow! I've seen them rust before and pull the threaded area out where the seat bolts in, but I've never seen one completely gone like that before! Before anything, I would wire-wheel it to see just what you have to work with underneath, and if the floorpan is still salvagable, go cut another brace off a parts car in the junkyard and weld it in. The panel bond adhesive is good stuff, but it is expensive, and if the floorpan is rusted through to the point that you can't weld to it, then the panel bond will simply pull a chunk of the floor with it if stressed.
They last time i had my wiper motor out on my 95, the drivers part of the cowl area was rotted thorugh causing water to leaking down into the drivers floor board..... none of my mn12 friends around here had seen it before.

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-05-2016, 06:14 PM
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Sorry, I completely forgot about this until I saw this post. Here are the pics of what it is supposed to look like.



-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, and ported big valve heads
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-90 SC Automatic rustbucket winter beater
-97 Tbird Sport 4.6 Nice weather daily driver
-"Your buddy Mike is INSANE!" -ClintD's dad
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-06-2016, 11:02 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry, I completely forgot about this until I saw this post. Here are the pics of what it is supposed to look like.


Awesome that's perfect, thanks! I'll keep you guys updated with how it goes, the weathers bad right now in Iowa so I've been driving the truck but I plan on getting to it in the next week or so. Thanks again!
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