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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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Heater Core

Was getting all ready to rebuild the front suspension, nice stuff from Jay and the rest Motorcraft pieces,until the wife comes home yesterday from work and says the windows are all wet and steamy. That sucks,now its heater core time.I changed it 5 years ago with a core from Napa.Any input on the best heater cores would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 04:31 PM
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The most frustrating job ive had to do on my car. Wish I had some tips to make it easier but it really is just a pain in the a** no matter what.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttbird View Post
Was getting all ready to rebuild the front suspension, nice stuff from Jay and the rest Motorcraft pieces,until the wife comes home yesterday from work and says the windows are all wet and steamy. That sucks,now its heater core time.I changed it 5 years ago with a core from Napa.Any input on the best heater cores would be appreciated.
The new heater core I put in may car failed after only 22,000 miles. Bound and determined to not replace it, I resorted to using a stop leak product made mostly of ground nut shells and spices. Ninety nine percent of the leak stopped, but one percent is still too much. Calling on old techniques I used in the past, I poured a small amount of ground black pepper into the tank. Hallelujah! It has been 5 years since, 20 thousand miles more, and not one leak.

It is electrolysis causing failures in aluminum heater cores. Thanks to a tip a member posted here, the remedy is to run a ground wire from your inlet hose on the heater to somewhere on the frame.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Yea, It was a PITA 5 years ago when I did it. I'm going to try this time leaving the steering column in.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 06:06 PM
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My napa one leaked 6 months later. Got a free replacement but that is not comforting. First time took 6 hrs, 2nd time 2/12 hrs. Don't have to remove the steering column, just unbolt it add let it drop down.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbird Bob View Post
bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbfrg t is electrolysis causing failures in aluminum heater cores. Thanks to a tip a member posted here, the remedy is to run a ground wire from your inlet hose on the heater to somewhere on the frame.
You need to make sure it's all grounded.

The heads, heater core, engine, oil filter adapter, radiator ALL need to be connected to a good ground.

Any ungrounded element means corrosion; the higher the resistance of the ground connection, the faster the corrosion.

Aluminum usually wears the most, especially if you use any stainless steel anywhere.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 07:37 PM
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In addition to the grounds, why not use a sacrificial anode for the drain plug?

Sacrificial Anode - Chemwiki

Example:
Fluidyne Zinc Anodes FHP32004 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

-g

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S4gunn View Post
In addition to the grounds, why not use a sacrificial anode for the drain plug?

Sacrificial Anode - Chemwiki

Example:
Fluidyne Zinc Anodes FHP32004 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

-g
Good Idea Thanks
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-08-2016, 07:37 AM
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I've been planning to buy an anode for mine and this thread reminded me. After searching around, I found THIS site with a similar part for much cheaper (Fluidyne vs. Flex-A-Lite). Just a heads up.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-08-2016, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jco1385 View Post
I've been planning to buy an anode for mine and this thread reminded me. After searching around, I found THIS site with a similar part for much cheaper (Fluidyne vs. Flex-A-Lite). Just a heads up.
Thanks
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