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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
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Correct Jack Points

Hello all,

I've been reading a few old threads about jacking up the car properly, but I'm still having some trouble.

Just bought a new floor jack. It's actually a low profile trolley jack, but it has a good lift height and it's pretty well built.
My issue is that it doesn't reach the k member by just a few inches. It can reach the rear lift point fine because the rear bumper clears the jack handle, but the front bumper is just too long. This jack was mostly for another car, but I've been trying to make it work by jacking up one side at time and setting it on jack stands, which works fine. I'd rather not buy another jack just for that.
Is it okay that I've been using this (they were already bent when I bought the car):
Or should I just get a pinch weld adapter? Yes, I'm aware that if a piece of metal is badly bent, then it probably can't handle the weight, but I had some work to do and I used a block of wood.

Anything else on the front end that I can use for jacking that's closer to the front?
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1996 Mercury Cougar XR7 4.6L , Vermillion
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Last edited by V22; 11-20-2016 at 12:55 PM.
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V22 View Post
Hello all,

I've been reading a few old threads about jacking up the car properly, but I'm still having some trouble.

Just bought a new floor jack. It's actually a low profile trolley jack, but it has a good lift height and it's pretty well built.
My issue is that it doesn't reach the k member by just a few inches. It can reach the rear lift point fine because the rear bumper clears the jack handle, but the front bumper is just too long. This jack was mostly for another car, but I've been trying to make it work by jacking up one side at time and setting it on jack stands, which works fine. I'd rather not buy another jack just for reason.
Is it okay that I've been using this (they were already bent when I bought the car):
Or should I just get a pinch weld adapter? Yes, I'm aware that if a piece of metal is badly bent, then it probably can't handle the weight, but I had some work to do and I used a block of wood.

Anything else on the front end that I can use for jacking that's closer to the front?
According to the factory service manual, in the front, the K member is the only lift point. I place of a pinch weld adapter, you can use a hockey puck.

Do you realize you were just passed by a NASCAR? I didn't think so.
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 01:04 PM
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I just reach the front jack point from the sides.. if you need to lift both sides you should be using jack stands anyway.
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 01:25 PM
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That poor torque box. If you're going to do that jack under section of it that goes over the frame rail, that's where all the metal comes together so it's very strong, whereas the torque box is completely hollow.

Me personally I use a small second jack (like a factory scissor one)under the strut rod mount just to get the front end high enough for my big jack to operate under the center of the K member.
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-Matt
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6
Me personally I use a small second jack (like a factory scissor one)under the strut rod mount just to get the front end high enough for my big jack to operate under the center of the K member.
X2

It would be nice if they made an aluminum jack that you could slide under the center of the K-Member..
That way you wouldn't have to use 2 different jacks..







Rayo..

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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-21-2016, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies.
I think I'm just gonna use the frame rail that's just ahead of the torque box, where I put the jack stands. Or I might just get a pinch weld adapter.

So that torque box, it's normally straight, right?

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If you see a shiny red car swerving around potholes and parking 10000 miles from all the other plebeians in parking lots, then it's probably me.
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-21-2016, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rayo View Post
X2

It would be nice if they made an aluminum jack that you could slide under the center of the K-Member..
That way you wouldn't have to use 2 different jacks..







Rayo..
Yeah well It would have been nice if Ford didn't make the front overhang 3 feet long too

Quote:
Originally Posted by V22 View Post
Thanks for the replies.
I think I'm just gonna use the frame rail that's just ahead of the torque box, where I put the jack stands. Or I might just get a pinch weld adapter.

So that torque box, it's normally straight, right?
Yes it's supposed to be a perfect box shape(as the name implies), all that lies below is the firewall, which slopes back just as it does on the other side of the frame rail where the exhaust passes under, so there's a long drop if the steel were to give way. As is it's probably fine if the steel and welds haven't sheared, but I definitely wouldn't jack under there again.

I'm not the biggest fan of jacking the pinch welds either, but still better.

-Matt
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-21-2016, 06:10 PM
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From the side, I jack using the thicker metal where the transmission mount bolts in; it's never bent or caused a problem.

I did have one Jackass put a jackstand on my fuel lines, tho.

If nothings in the trunk, it will lift front and back on that side, so I place both jackstands, and move to the other side.

It's a problem on the tbird, 'cause my freaking jack won't fit under the car.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-21-2016, 06:14 PM
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I have a low profile, high lift jack from Harbor Freight. I jack it from the middle of the frame rail, it jacks the entire side up, I place jack stands on the front and rear of the rail, and move to the other side. If I don't need one end up, I don't put a stand under that end.

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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-21-2016, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodman View Post
... If I don't need one end up, I don't put a stand under that end.
Be careful doing that; you can put a bunch of effort on a bolt, and have the whole car move suddenly, lifting the odd wheel.

If one of the stands shifts, it could be bad.

It makes me a lot happier to do all 4, then it won't move.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.


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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-21-2016, 09:29 PM
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I think I was "cleared" by the forum to jack up the rear from the differential mounting bracket and never jack on the differential.

With my Vogtland springs I have to drive the front up ramps to get the jack under it. The ramps often slide out to the front which makes using them as the only lift difficult. I go up the ramps just enough to get the jack under the car and then set brake, block rear wheels and get to jacking. It's not the safest process but jacking from the side really loads up the unibody frame.

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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
Be careful doing that; you can put a bunch of effort on a bolt, and have the whole car move suddenly, lifting the odd wheel.

If one of the stands shifts, it could be bad.

It makes me a lot happier to do all 4, then it won't move.
It all depends on what I'm doing. If I just need the front end up in the air, I apply the parking brake, chock the wheels, and jack up the front end, put the stands under the front and leave enough on the jack to act as a safety. Rear end stays all the way down. Same if I have to just jack up the rear.

90% of the time though, I'm moving around enough under there where it's more convenient to have all four corners in the air.

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordonm1 View Post
I think I was "cleared" by the forum to jack up the rear from the differential mounting bracket and never jack on the differential.

With my Vogtland springs I have to drive the front up ramps to get the jack under it. The ramps often slide out to the front which makes using them as the only lift difficult. I go up the ramps just enough to get the jack under the car and then set brake, block rear wheels and get to jacking. It's not the safest process but jacking from the side really loads up the unibody frame.
One of these is well worth the $100.
3 ton Low Profile Steel Heavy Duty Floor Jack with Rapid Pump®

It's lower than 3" when fully recessed, and gets the car nearly a foot in the air. Best investment I've made as far as jacks go. I'm on 1.5" Eibachs and I have plenty of room to roll this under the car.

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodman View Post
It all depends on what I'm doing. If I just need the front end up in the air, I apply the parking brake, chock the wheels, and jack up the front end, put the stands under the front and leave enough on the jack to act as a safety. Rear end stays all the way down. Same if I have to just jack up the rear.

90% of the time though, I'm moving around enough under there where it's more convenient to have all four corners in the air.
That's not what you described in the previous post, jacking the whole side up from the frame rail and sometimes using a single stand.

-Matt
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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
That's not what you described in the previous post, jacking the whole side up from the frame rail and sometimes using a single stand.
Yeah, I realized I didn't word it well.

What I was trying to say is, if I only need one end up, I support that side (with two stands) and let the other side down. Usually front or rear, but on occasion left or right. So I'll put the jack in the middle of the car, raise that side, support what needs supported, then repeat the process on the other side.

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodman View Post
One of these is well worth the $100.
3 ton Low Profile Steel Heavy Duty Floor Jack with Rapid Pump®

It's lower than 3" when fully recessed, and gets the car nearly a foot in the air. Best investment I've made as far as jacks go. I'm on 1.5" Eibachs and I have plenty of room to roll this under the car.
Have the same jack, had to have it for the SC.
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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodman View Post
Yeah, I realized I didn't word it well.

What I was trying to say is, if I only need one end up, I support that side (with two stands) and let the other side down. Usually front or rear, but on occasion left or right. So I'll put the jack in the middle of the car, raise that side, support what needs supported, then repeat the process on the other side.
So in other words, both? lol

There's no nautical like standards for cars but to me sides = doors/fenders/quarters, while ends containing bumpers and lights = front or rear ends. It's confusing as hell calling the front or rear end a front side or back side. I never jack the car from the sides to the point both wheels are off the ground, the steeper angle for the jackstands just seems too scary precarious compared to going from the ends

-Matt

Last edited by XR7-4.6; 11-22-2016 at 04:34 PM.
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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 04:42 PM
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I agree, Matt; but sometimes I need my stands all the way up, and that really only works from the sides, in a multi-step process.

Dangerous, yes.

I use 6 stands when I do that, so nothing can move far.

That's the only way the transmission comes out...

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 06:37 PM
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I have no problem getting max height out of my stands going end to end. I start on the front under the K member, set the stands a few notches up under the strut rod mounts and set the car down on them. Then I move to the back, jack under the diff mount, lift the rear to roughly level to that of the front and set the stands under the front IRS brackets. Then move back to the front and raise it up and max the stands there, and again to the rear. There's never been a scenario where I've found raising the sides desirable.
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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-23-2016, 07:57 AM
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I jack up just the side for rotating tires. But you don't have to get it far off the ground for that.

Al

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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-23-2016, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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Actually, on second thought, I'm just gonna use an inflatable mattress as a jack and 2 bean cans for jack stands. I'll make sure to lift from the bumper, it's a well known factory lift point that all the techs use. Sound good?
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-23-2016, 10:24 PM
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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-23-2016, 11:40 PM
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Actually, on second thought, I'm just gonna use an inflatable mattress as a jack...
That's been done-

https://youtu.be/OsnwVCOiIp4

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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 09:32 AM
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I remember someone local in to 70's picking up a Smoky and the Bandit style Firebird with a front bumper jack.

It tore off even with the radiator, lol.

Apparently those 6.6l engines were heavy...
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Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.


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Truth Isn't Truth. - Rudy Giuliani, 2018 Award winner, “Most Outrageous Diversion” by MSNBC for this quote
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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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Where can I buy one? Heck, it's looks so solid I don't even need the bean cans!
JK, the floor pan is actually better. I need some drainage holes anyways.

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If you see a shiny red car swerving around potholes and parking 10000 miles from all the other plebeians in parking lots, then it's probably me.
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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-06-2016, 05:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordonm1 View Post
I think I was "cleared" by the forum to jack up the rear from the differential mounting bracket and never jack on the differential.

With my Vogtland springs I have to drive the front up ramps to get the jack under it. The ramps often slide out to the front which makes using them as the only lift difficult. I go up the ramps just enough to get the jack under the car and then set brake, block rear wheels and get to jacking. It's not the safest process but jacking from the side really loads up the unibody frame.
I screwed 2 10x6 together staggered and drive up on the wood. That gets the car 4inches higher to get the jack under .
Going up The ramps half way sounds like a accident waiting to happen
Hope this helps..

Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V22 View Post
Actually, on second thought, I'm just gonna use an inflatable mattress as a jack...
That's been done-

https://youtu.be/OsnwVCOiIp4
I seen a air bag jack that gets filled with the exhaust pipe work in the desert...Just like the vid

Last edited by Rodeo Joe; 12-06-2016 at 06:45 AM. Reason: Merged posts
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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-06-2016, 06:47 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Imperial, Missouri (near St. L
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Jack points = red. Jackstands = yellow.




Rod @ AzzKicker Cars
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90 XR7-The Meth Addict-KB SC'd 5.0L DOHC Stroker
2004 Mustang GT-The Driver-Intake/Exhaust/3.73's
1995 F150 4x4-The Mud Toy-5.0L/4R70W/33's/Warn 8274 Winch
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2 - 90 35th Anny Ed SC's
And a TON of parts cars!
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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 09:44 PM
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If your ramps want to slide out trying to drive on, set them on a couple old strips of carpet with about 6" of the carpet our past the bottom of the ramp. The weight of the tires on the carpet keep the ramps from sliding.
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