Best Fuel Pumps - Precision, Flo-Tech or Carquest - TCCoA Forums
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-05-2016, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
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Best Fuel Pumps - Precision, Flo-Tech or Carquest

I am trying to obtain a fuel pump assembly for my 96TB 4.6. The FP assemblies are getting more difficult to obtain. I need member's review of these pumps and most important I need the part number for the Precision FP. I can not find this P# anywhere. TB is completely stock.

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Glenn

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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-07-2016, 12:28 PM
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Why not just replace the pump itself if that's all that is bad? When I did mine back then, I bought a Walbro GSS340, which is 255lph, and swapped it in. Minimal fuss.

Michael M. ASE P2 Automobile Parts Specialist.

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-07-2016, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks - but I am having issues with my fuel gauge sending unit so I want to replace the entire assembly.

Anyone know the part number for the Precision Fuel assembly. I would really appreciate anyone's help.

Glenn

1996 TB LX, 4.6, 120,000 miles, black with tan interior.
Dark tint and OEM "Sport" spoiler.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-07-2016, 01:07 PM
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What is your fuel gauge doing?

Michael M. ASE P2 Automobile Parts Specialist.

1996 Thunderbird LX. Gone, but not forgotten Oct 1995-March 24 2016 Trick Flow headded, E85 guzzling beast.

1985 Mustang GT. modified stock Holley 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake manifold, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 5 speed, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

1998 Mustang GT premium. Trans Go shift kit, Bassani catted x-pipe, PI heads, cams, intake swap, Accufab elbow, SCT Xcal 4 tune, Eibach Pro-kit, Maximum Motorsports Caster/camber plates, fat tires. Banging audio system.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-07-2016, 05:09 PM
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Precision doesn't list a Fuel Pump Sender Assembly for the 94-97 V8 MN12..

They do however have a Fuel Pump Sender Assembly for the 91-93 V8 MN12..Which is Part #A27027

Physically it will drop right in, and plug right in with no fuss..

I can't speak on the reliability of a Precision pump in an MN12 though..

I have used a Precision Fuel Pump Sender Assembly in my F150, and it's been fine for a couple of years now..






Rayo..

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-08-2016, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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Rayo - thanks for your information - very helpful. Very surprised there is no fuel pump assembly for the 94-97 4.6 anymore only the separate fuel pump, but no assembly. I noticed the A27027 is for the 93 302 running 80-130 psi, but the fuel regulator should lower it to 35-45 psi which the 4.6 specifies. What are your comments on the psi differences?

Also, any reason a 4.6 cannot use the 3.8 fuel pump assembly - which is still available.

In regards to my fuel gauge - it just is not accurate anymore. It is not the gauge it is the sender.

1996 TB LX, 4.6, 120,000 miles, black with tan interior.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-08-2016, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn
Also, any reason a 4.6 cannot use the 3.8 fuel pump assembly - which is still available.
If you're referring to the Motorcraft PFS181..The pump attached to it, is undersized for a V8..
As well as having a different shaped sender, so your fuel gauge would probably be off..

I don't foresee there being a psi problem using the (A27027) Precision Fuel Pump Sender Assembly on your 97..

Most of the aftermarket Fuel Pump Sender Assemblies available for our cars, are one size fits all anyways..

I don't know how stock you plan on keeping this car, but if I were changing out the Fuel Pump Sender Assembly on my car I would upgrade..

Basically taking the new fuel pump off of the new Fuel Pump Sender Assembly, and swapping it out for a Walbro 255lph..






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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-08-2016, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn View Post
Rayo - thanks for your information - very helpful. Very surprised there is no fuel pump assembly for the 94-97 4.6 anymore only the separate fuel pump, but no assembly. I noticed the A27027 is for the 93 302 running 80-130 psi, but the fuel regulator should lower it to 35-45 psi which the 4.6 specifies. What are your comments on the psi differences?

Also, any reason a 4.6 cannot use the 3.8 fuel pump assembly - which is still available.

In regards to my fuel gauge - it just is not accurate anymore. It is not the gauge it is the sender.
Are you certain it is not your anti-slosh module?

Michael M. ASE P2 Automobile Parts Specialist.

1996 Thunderbird LX. Gone, but not forgotten Oct 1995-March 24 2016 Trick Flow headded, E85 guzzling beast.

1985 Mustang GT. modified stock Holley 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake manifold, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 5 speed, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

1998 Mustang GT premium. Trans Go shift kit, Bassani catted x-pipe, PI heads, cams, intake swap, Accufab elbow, SCT Xcal 4 tune, Eibach Pro-kit, Maximum Motorsports Caster/camber plates, fat tires. Banging audio system.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-08-2016, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mgino96tbird46 View Post
Are you certain it is not your anti-slosh module?
I'd swap that out first, since the gauge isn't connected to the sending unit but to the anti-slosh board; the anti-slosh board is connected to the sending unit.

(And I can pull the dash a LOT easier than the fuel tank!)

SUGGESTION! While you're in there, swap the bulbs in the dash; if they've never been replaced, you might not have any idea how nice the dash can look with all the bulbs working.

RwP

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-09-2016, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rayo View Post
If you're referring to the Motorcraft PFS181..The pump attached to it, is undersized for a V8..
As well as having a different shaped sender, so your fuel gauge would probably be off..

I don't foresee there being a psi problem using the (A27027) Precision Fuel Pump Sender Assembly on your 97..

Most of the aftermarket Fuel Pump Sender Assemblies available for our cars, are one size fits all anyways..

I don't know how stock you plan on keeping this car, but if I were changing out the Fuel Pump Sender Assembly on my car I would upgrade..

Basically taking the new fuel pump off of the new Fuel Pump Sender Assembly, and swapping it out for a Walbro 255lph..






Rayo..
I bought a new fuel pump assembly from Rock Auto, the supplied pump failed within a week, friend hooked me up wit the Walbro 255lph pump by giving me some cash towards it and a employee discount, making my outlay for the part about 100 bucks. He felt bad that the new pump failed. I would go with a Walbro any day of the week, well built and trouble free once wired in.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-09-2016, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all your comments - very informative.

Has anyone used the Precision fuel pump A27027 (from the 93 TB) in your 94-97 4.6.


I plan on keeping the TB totally stock.

Thanks,

Glenn

1996 TB LX, 4.6, 120,000 miles, black with tan interior.
Dark tint and OEM "Sport" spoiler.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-09-2016, 04:43 PM
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Just saying, a Walbro 255 lph will be superior in quality.
Trunk Monkey and Black_Cat like this.

Michael M. ASE P2 Automobile Parts Specialist.

1996 Thunderbird LX. Gone, but not forgotten Oct 1995-March 24 2016 Trick Flow headded, E85 guzzling beast.

1985 Mustang GT. modified stock Holley 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake manifold, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 5 speed, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

1998 Mustang GT premium. Trans Go shift kit, Bassani catted x-pipe, PI heads, cams, intake swap, Accufab elbow, SCT Xcal 4 tune, Eibach Pro-kit, Maximum Motorsports Caster/camber plates, fat tires. Banging audio system.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 05:17 PM
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So this walbro 255 would fit in the fuel pump assembly of 96 4.6? No other "adjustments" or whatnot? Need to change mine soon asap.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 06:09 PM
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You need to change the internal connector but otherwise it's a direct fit, 255 is overkill though. Make sure it's a real walbro. The cheap Walbro kits you find on many sites are fakes

-Matt
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 09:08 PM
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The biggest problem is getting the pump in the exact same place, if you want the gauge to read the same as before.

Measure the distance between the float for the gauge, and the surface of the fuel hat before you change anything, and make sure it's the same afterwards.

Also, make sure it's moving freely before you put it in; It's a bitch to have to drop the gas tank again to fix it.


Also, keeping over 1/4 tank of fuel keeps the pump immersed in fuel, and makes it run cooler, and last longer.

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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
The biggest problem is getting the pump in the exact same place, if you want the gauge to read the same as before.

Measure the distance between the float for the gauge, and the surface of the fuel hat before you change anything, and make sure it's the same afterwards.

Also, make sure it's moving freely before you put it in; It's a bitch to have to drop the gas tank again to fix it.


Also, keeping over 1/4 tank of fuel keeps the pump immersed in fuel, and makes it run cooler, and last longer.
Really it comes down to making sure the float isn’t hung up on anything. There’s nothing else you can do that would affect the placement of the float unless you damaged the lever or something. The pump hat is keyed to the tank opening and the float is mounted to the hat frame, not the pump itself.

I will say don’t mix around pump hats and tanks though. I put a 95 hat in my 94 tank and it reads 1/8 more low than it should. There are a few differences in the stamping and dimensions I didn’t think anything of at the time I installed it, but unfortunately that’s a future project my OCD demands revisiting to

-Matt
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