Blower motor problems! Help please - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-20-2017, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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Blower motor problems! Help please

Hi everyone I have a 95 tbird lx with a4.6. I've had it for a little over a month. Everything in the hvac works except the blower which is intermittent ( mostly not). The control unit shows no faults in the self test. I have power coming from the blower control module that goes from like 9 volts to over 13 depending on where the speed switch is located. I replaced the motor with a new one.works like a champ when hooked to a battery. I squeezed the connectors on the pigtails and ohmed the pigtail out. Checks good. Ohmed the black wire to ground and its checking good. What am I missing? Live in south Alabama and the ac is a must for survival. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-20-2017, 07:14 PM
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Was it 9V to 13V with the motor attached, or not?

Even so ... I'd bet the BSCM is what's failing (presuming the EATC, which is what it sounds like.)

Or, if you crimped, the crimp may be bad; do the crimps warm up when it's supposed to be working?

RwP

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-20-2017, 07:18 PM
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Did you check/replace the blower control module/resistor?

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-21-2017, 05:28 AM Thread Starter
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I had the pigtail disconnected from the blower and hooked to a meter when watching the voltage. I just took some small needle nose and squeezed the connectors a bit to ensure they were making good connection.They don't get hot and ohmed out good.I haven't replaced the control module because I thought it was good seeing how I can see a voltage swing when I adjust the knob and there is power even when the fan isn't running.i have thought about adding another ground to the pigtail just to see what happens.Maybe its possible the module is bad even though it shows power coming out?Weak ground I don't know.Frustrating.Thanks for the ideas and suggestions I will recheck all the connections I wish there was a way to bench test controller.Keep the suggestions coming!Thanks
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-21-2017, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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well I added another ground to the black wire on the pigtail and the blower runs wide open regardless of switch position so I just ordered a new blower control module and the odometer gears while I was at it.baby steps.thanks for the help
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-21-2017, 10:01 PM
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well I added another ground to the black wire on the pigtail and the blower runs wide open regardless of switch position so I just ordered a new blower control module and the odometer gears while I was at it.baby steps.thanks for the help
Well, since the BSCM is between the blower motor and ground, that's no surprise.

But it does help verify that the blower motor is good, and that the 12V feed is good.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-08-2017, 01:05 AM
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Did you check the connector where the blower motor gets power? This is from my 98 LSC
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-08-2017, 08:51 AM
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side note to that, how hard is it to change the motor in a 93 (different dash)? Mine will make a click/ticking noise on low... I'm assuming something fell in there or it's just worn out....
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-08-2017, 11:25 AM
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side note to that, how hard is it to change the motor in a 93 (different dash)? Mine will make a click/ticking noise on low... I'm assuming something fell in there or it's just worn out....
Step 1 - Empty the glove box.

Step 2 - Drop the glove box (tabs on either side can flex in, allowing the box door to drop all the way down.

Step 3 - Remove power connector.

Step 4 - Remove cooling air vent (plugs into side of motor; you can't miss it.)

Step 5 - Remove four 10mm head bolts (may be 8mm; I've slept a couple of dozen times since I did this.)

Step 6 - Wiggle the motor and wheel out (it's no more difficult than a FL-1A oil filter up front and won't dump old hot oil on you! But it IS a bit of a wiggle) through the glove box, then drop it down.

Reverse to re-install.

My 1991 has a muffler that bolts to the housing using one of the mounting bolts for the fan; I'm not sure all years have that.

You may need to remove the BSCM to make clearance; I was doing that also, so installed it after the fan.

If you buy a VDO replacement, it doesn't have the connector but has two wires you're supposed to splice in; I used two .250" quick connect males, and fed each one into the blower connector from the body chassis. This allowed me to avoid hacking the car's wiring harness. (The Bosch plugs right in, but was $10 more and besides, my old Bosch only lasted 5 years. It WAS stifled with some plastic around the motor, however; a bag that probably got sucked in off the floor on MAX AC sometime in the past.)

BTW - this is actually laid out in the factory service manual; you really ought to buy one (and the EVTM) off of Ebay sometime.

RwP

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-08-2017, 01:54 PM
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cool thanks!!!!
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-12-2017, 02:43 PM
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I also had an issue with melted connector housing on my 1997. Tried various means to improve the electrical contact, but the real solution was to buy a connector with wiring pigtail and replace the old one.

MikeB
1997 Thunderbird Sport
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