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post #1 of 69 (permalink) Old 12-29-2017, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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My pads were low and started grind 2 days ago and I maybe drove it 30 miles since...had to run out quick and down the road doing 40 on pure ice coated roads the rear locked up and sent me side ways for a second then I heard the rotor explode which may have prevent me from going in the ditch because it allowed me to regain control..I knew something went wrong but I didn't expect to see this...
What a horrible time as I'm tapped out cash wise for 2 months from Xmas and had to renew my plates n etc...from quick glance as I just had surgery so I'm not to mobile and its negative 10 out rite now I for sure need a caliper back there..possibly a mounting bracket too...ugh..gggggrrrrrr but at least no one was hurt and its repairable ..
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post #2 of 69 (permalink) Old 12-29-2017, 12:41 PM
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Mmmm, really, really hard to see what's going on there. I'm not sure if I'm seeing a really horribly rusted over and scored rotor, or if that's the splash shield.

Unfortunately without a clearer view with the wheel off, or a precise description of what exactly is there I'm just taking a guess. But for starters, at least some pads and a new rotor. The caliper and bracket may or may not need replacement but you'll definitely need to rent the rear caliper compressor tool from AutoZone to get the new pads into it.

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post #3 of 69 (permalink) Old 12-29-2017, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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That's the splash shield..there's no rotor left there..I will get a few better pics when I have to head out and take a better look at the damage.
The caliper is toast too..it blew the piston out of it and got scorned really bad by the rotor or my rim ..
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post #4 of 69 (permalink) Old 12-30-2017, 11:39 AM
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Probably should have performed brake maintenance when you spray painted the calipers red
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post #5 of 69 (permalink) Old 12-30-2017, 11:44 PM
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Wow/Huh. I've abused my tbird plenty and I've never seen a rotor explode before.

Good news is that the parts aren't that expensive at rockauto
Rear Rotors $10.21 x2 for DURA-GO (mfg in an ISO factory so QC is controlled)
Rear Caliper+Bracket <$50 + core (which you can return yours)
Rear Pads <$10 (I spend $200 on the front pads but the Wagner PD599 have lasted me for quite a bit of track time w/o any drama)
+ fluid

You'll be back on the road for <$100.
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post #6 of 69 (permalink) Old 12-31-2017, 09:43 PM
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Wow man, that looks rough. Glad you weren't hurt though. I agree with S4gunn, shouldn't be too much to get you back together. Sucks when stuff like that happens.

Someone just backed into our crown vic, dented the fender, completely demolished the turn signal housing, and put a nice couple of 1 inch gashes all over the bumper. Scumbag didn't even leave a note. Granted the car's not in great condition cosmetically but still.

I'm surprised the rotor exploded though, never heard of that before. I imagine it was a terrible noise to hear.

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post #7 of 69 (permalink) Old 12-31-2017, 09:54 PM
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Well it's clear you need new rotors, pads and possibly new calipers. I know how it is after surgery and stuff. Really does suck.
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post #8 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-01-2018, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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I'm just scared if it went the bracket mount..the wheel was fully locked up and the caliper locked onto the rotor and the fact my car was moving the rotor couldn't take the force and exploded and caused the piston to come out of the caliper..
For sure need a caliper.! The piston from the old caliper got eaten up by my rim . Are the rears m8 specific or will bird and cougar or Vic or mustang ones work..unsure of anything on this car yet...I need a caliper 100% . pads and might as well do both rotors and inspect the other rear caliper..I've had great luck with ceramic pads and drilled n slotted rotor ebay packages..
Stupid recovery from the surgery isn't go as well as hoped and it hasn't been above 0 for over a week now...so hopefully I will have all the parts gathered for when I crack at it at the end of this month.
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post #9 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-01-2018, 09:50 PM
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The rear calipers for any 94-97 Tbird or Cougar will interchange. Don't bother with drilled and slotted rotors, they don't do anything but wear your pads and brake worse.

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post #10 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-02-2018, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
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The rear calipers for any 94-97 Tbird or Cougar will interchange. Don't bother with drilled and slotted rotors, they don't do anything but wear your pads and brake worse.
Sweeeet..thx for the info...
And I'm aware drilled n slotted only advantage is faster cooling ..I understand all the drills and slots actually reduce the surface area of the pad contact...but hey,lol they look cool and say..I did a little mod here..
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post #11 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-02-2018, 12:35 PM
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Badbird- If you are super hard up for funds, I might be able to send you a used rotor, pads, and caliper off of my FX2 leftovers. I am pretty sure I still have those pieces sitting in the corner. No guarantees on the condition of the caliper, though. Lately I've been batting 50% on whether the piston will screw back in. If interested, I could look at the caliper and let you know if I think mine would be usable. Let me know.

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post #12 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-02-2018, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
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Badbird- If you are super hard up for funds, I might be able to send you a used rotor, pads, and caliper off of my FX2 leftovers. I am pretty sure I still have those pieces sitting in the corner. No guarantees on the condition of the caliper, though. Lately I've been batting 50% on whether the piston will screw back in. If interested, I could look at the caliper and let you know if I think mine would be usable. Let me know.
That would be an awesome help...I could at least PayPal you a few bucks ...
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post #13 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-02-2018, 04:30 PM
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That would be an awesome help...I could at least PayPal you a few bucks ...
All I should need is you to cover shipping. I'll try to check my stash in the morning and let you know tomorrow.

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post #14 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-02-2018, 06:04 PM
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I'm just scared if it went the bracket mount..the wheel was fully locked up and the caliper locked onto the rotor and the fact my car was moving the rotor couldn't take the force and exploded and caused the piston to come out of the caliper..
For sure need a caliper.! The piston from the old caliper got eaten up by my rim . Are the rears m8 specific or will bird and cougar or Vic or mustang ones work..unsure of anything on this car yet...I need a caliper 100% . pads and might as well do both rotors and inspect the other rear caliper..I've had great luck with ceramic pads and drilled n slotted rotor ebay packages..
Stupid recovery from the surgery isn't go as well as hoped and it hasn't been above 0 for over a week now...so hopefully I will have all the parts gathered for when I crack at it at the end of this month.
Good luck with your recovery.
FWIW, drilled and slotted rotors are a waste of money -- esp on the rear -- unless you are into the look. Since money is so tight just get any OEM rotor produced at an ISO/TS rated factory.

Most of your braking (like 80%) is done on the front anyway and any improvement in outgassing (which will be minimal) that you get from the slots will be negated by the choice of ceramic pads over semi-mettallic ones (ceramic = less dust and wear but also less cold weather bite and higher temps/inc. fade under heavy use -- What Are The Best Brake Pads? Ceramic vs. Semi-Metallic)

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post #15 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-02-2018, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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I'm just scared if it went the bracket mount..the wheel was fully locked up and the caliper locked onto the rotor and the fact my car was moving the rotor couldn't take the force and exploded and caused the piston to come out of the caliper..
For sure need a caliper.! The piston from the old caliper got eaten up by my rim . Are the rears m8 specific or will bird and cougar or Vic or mustang ones work..unsure of anything on this car yet...I need a caliper 100% . pads and might as well do both rotors and inspect the other rear caliper..I've had great luck with ceramic pads and drilled n slotted rotor ebay packages..
Stupid recovery from the surgery isn't go as well as hoped and it hasn't been above 0 for over a week now...so hopefully I will have all the parts gathered for when I crack at it at the end of this month.
Good luck with your recovery.
FWIW, drilled and slotted rotors are a waste of money -- esp on the rear -- unless you are into the look. Since money is so tight just get any OEM rotor produced at an ISO/TS rated factory.

Most of your braking (like 80%) is done on the front anyway and any improvement in outgassing (which will be minimal) that you get from the slots will be negated by the choice of ceramic pads over semi-mettallic ones (ceramic = less dust and wear but also less cold weather bite and higher temps/inc. fade under heavy use -- What Are The Best Brake Pads? Ceramic vs. Semi-Metallic)

-g

100% agree
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post #16 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-02-2018, 10:41 PM
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Worst case scenario is you're out approx $150 for parts which includes both rear rotors and pads and also the caliper and caliper bracket. It's very doable by yourself but I understand the surgery won't allow that. Craigslist here in Vegas has a bunch of guys willing to do brakes for 50 bucks for pads and rotors labor for the entire car. I'm sure you can find someone that will do just the rears for that much.

Look at the bright side, you get all new rear brakes!
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post #17 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 09:55 AM
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That would be an awesome help...I could at least PayPal you a few bucks ...
I tried this morning, but I could not get my old caliper to clock back open. The rubber seal is bound up and the whole things is pretty rusty. I also broke the bolt that holds the bracket to the hub.
Sorry I couldn't help you out on this one.

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post #18 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 10:31 AM
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Worst case scenario is you're out approx $150 for parts which includes both rear rotors and pads and also the caliper and caliper bracket. It's very doable by yourself but I understand the surgery won't allow that. Craigslist here in Vegas has a bunch of guys willing to do brakes for 50 bucks for pads and rotors labor for the entire car. I'm sure you can find someone that will do just the rears for that much.

Look at the bright side, you get all new rear brakes!
Good tip on the shade tree mechanics. $150 is being generous though -- did you see how little rotors cost on rockauto.com? My estimate takes that into account already.
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post #19 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for looking thunderstruck ..
I'm just gonna get a part every time I got a few extra bucks until I'm fully healed .
I will have no problem doing the work my self..my 8 year old daughter is a mini me so I will bring her out with me as a daddy daughter job..will let her paint the new caliper too..
Kid already knows more and how to do more work on a vehicle than most 16 year old boys ..
Haha she even plays battlefield with me now as her Xmas gift was an Xbox s n stuff to go with my Xbox x..
I will be doing drilled n slotted though just because they look cool being rims..ceramic pads too for less dust. I hate cleaning rims.
I'm no master mechanic but I can do most work on a vehicle .. And I've done brakes so many times now on an mn12 . and Idk why but rears always seem easier than fronts to do.
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post #20 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-11-2018, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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New front and rear drilled n slotted rotors and ceramic pads as well as an all new passengers side bracket,caliper and hardware..
I will be updating post with pics of repair process and be for and after comparison .
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post #21 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-21-2018, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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Rr caliper snapped the casing where it connects to the bracket,and the bracket is bent..and a tiny piece of rotor was left...pics of damage coming soon..
Just have to replace one more rear caliper and she's road ready.
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post #22 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-21-2018, 08:33 PM
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Sweeeet..thx for the info...
And I'm aware drilled n slotted only advantage is faster cooling ..I understand all the drills and slots actually reduce the surface area of the pad contact...but hey,lol they look cool and say..I did a little mod here..
According to Engineering Explained, they don't wick away heat any faster, in fact they retain heat more than standard vented rotors.

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post #23 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-22-2018, 08:52 AM Thread Starter
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Yaaaa.but o bet they help with not getting ice build up on them..wow no wonder my rear failed...it had ice packed so hard in sure it played its part...these rims might have to be switched back to stock for winter..even snow stocks on the rim and will cause it to be it of balance...
Lol she don't like winter in finding out...haha maybe I can keep finding excuses to keep it parked in my garage,until nice weather atleast.
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post #24 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-22-2018, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
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Sweeeet..thx for the info...
And I'm aware drilled n slotted only advantage is faster cooling ..I understand all the drills and slots actually reduce the surface area of the pad contact...but hey,lol they look cool and say..I did a little mod here..
According to Engineering Explained, they don't wick away heat any faster, in fact they retain heat more than standard vented rotors.
No..they wick easy heat much faster ..and used with cobronfiberNceramic pads they take longer to get to the failure point..
The only down fall is while they are cold the braking is same as stock with metallic pads..the drills n slots actually reduce the surface contact of pad to rotor but all the other benefits out weigh it...exp after seeing every stock rotor I pied off has heat scarring and minor warpage ...
And btw,they are vented same like stock.just better material and dtilled n slotted...I do wanna try some autocross and drag strip this summer
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post #25 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-22-2018, 10:50 AM
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post #26 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-22-2018, 11:45 AM
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Sweeeet..thx for the info...
And I'm aware drilled n slotted only advantage is faster cooling ..I understand all the drills and slots actually reduce the surface area of the pad contact...but hey,lol they look cool and say..I did a little mod here..
The theory behind slotted rotors is to create paths for unwanted materials to escape so they dont stay between the rotor and pad. The theory behind drilled rotors is basically the same but mainly for water. Whether that actually works, Im not an engineer so I dont know.

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post #27 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-22-2018, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
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Wonderful placebos
Your a fool to say that stock rotors and metallic pads are better than what I got with carbonfiber ceramic pads..
After seeing the condition on the stock rotors with lip and ridges .and having one explode..I think I will give these a try...in willing to bet at the very least they won't warp as easy as stockies
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post #28 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-22-2018, 02:29 PM
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Better pads can make a world of difference, speed holes in the rotors do not.
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post #29 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-22-2018, 03:45 PM
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Your a fool to say that stock rotors and metallic pads are better than what I got with carbonfiber ceramic pads..
After seeing the condition on the stock rotors with lip and ridges .and having one explode..I think I will give these a try...in willing to bet at the very least they won't warp as easy as stockies
Actually slotted and drilled rotors tend to warp faster on street cars.

But your money, your choice.

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post #30 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-22-2018, 03:53 PM
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Actually slotted and drilled rotors tend to warp faster on street cars.

But your money, your choice.

RwP
Yeah, but the Worst part is the "tacka-tacka-tacka-tacka-tacka" sound as you come to a stop with hot brakes, lol.

The edge of the expanded pads hit the slots, so...

They looked purdy until they turned blue, tho.

I usually waste a set a year, so it won't be long.

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