Reinstall rack steering shaft - TCCoA Forums
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-06-2018, 07:37 AM Thread Starter
PostWhore
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: albany, ny
Posts: 1,170
Reinstall rack steering shaft

I pulled the rack because of leaking transfer lines. Not a fun job to r/r. Whole car is rusted to crap. Nice long hole where the wiring is on floor, the frame before where the rear subframe sits is starting to go, also the passenger rear shock absorber area in the trunk has holes. Not good, so I'm minimizing cost.

I bought one from advance, it was cheap with discounts, but I ended up not installing it because it seems they just sprayed over the grease (it definitely has new parts, but mine was not leaking so I figured it with the cost of an alignment and the condition of the car I'll keep mine. A local shop also said if yours isn't leaking from a seal better to reuse it. They said get the motorcraft one (totally not worth it for this car. May not even pass inspection next year) or reuse yours.

I bent and flared tubing (not easy either with those bends, but needed something to do..). I also replaced all the tubing, got it for $50 thanks to advance coupons. Parts looked very corroded.

Anyway, I'm having very hard time getting the splined fittings married. (was a real pita to get off). Firstly it is not on an optimal angle when installed, the rag joint has to be angled. I cleaned and lubed the splines, but there is still oxidation. I put a steel plate in the clamp, and cranked down the pinchbolt a bit to spread it, it helps somewhat. It also is difficult to extend and retract the shaft.

I got it about 1/2 way down. I'm hesitant to pound on it or abuse. It is also in a horrible spot working from underneath.

Any suggestions? Thx.
tbirdguy is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-06-2018, 07:45 AM
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: RTP, North Carolina
Posts: 375
It's a PIA for sure. The clamp to rack is keyed, only fits one way, I didn't know that the first time I did this. I also removed the bolt from the clamp completely to have a little more to work with. I've had someone in the car rocking the steering wheel slightly side to side while I pushed the clamp downward. It's hard to get leverage at that angle, the rocking seemed to help. Maybe some anti seize to give it a little grease to slip on.
Kidd-7 is offline  
post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-06-2018, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
PostWhore
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: albany, ny
Posts: 1,170
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kidd-7 View Post
It's a PIA for sure. The clamp to rack is keyed, only fits one way, I didn't know that the first time I did this. I also removed the bolt from the clamp completely to have a little more to work with. I've had someone in the car rocking the steering wheel slightly side to side while I pushed the clamp downward. It's hard to get leverage at that angle, the rocking seemed to help. Maybe some anti seize to give it a little grease to slip on.
I'm going to go to the store later and buy cans of lubes, PB, wd-40, silicon, and blast it. Would rather not remove the progress :lol:

I have a steel plate in the slot and the bolt expands the clamp a bit. does not really interfere. If I remove that there is no way it would ever go on. That is how I got it off too.

Yeah, I guess it is just time consuming. I got it 2/3 way, I'm down to the second spline, but it is tricky because there is play and you have to reengage that set of splines at just the right angle.


X Spline
| keyway
X Spline

Thinking of removing the U joint under the dash, may have someone also play with the wheel.

Thx
tbirdguy is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-06-2018, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
PostWhore
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: albany, ny
Posts: 1,170
Had some more time before.

I removed the Ujoint bolt under the steering column (that is a square fitting like a Taurus has on the rack)
Blasted the rack joint with lube, went to lunch.

Cranked the screw another bit to spread the clamp.

Holding the rag joint with both hands I was able to slide it down. Spray with brake cleaner, put locktite, tighten to 35 ft/lbs, same for under the steering wheel.

The rag joint looks like a bolt holds it to the intermediate shaft, that may have been an option too, but it looked quite corroded. Don't want to mess with heat, seems like a rubber part.

Like someone said about this job in some post from years ago, I wouldn't wish it on my worst enemy, especially doing it on the floor. Neighbor is an ex Ford tech and he said he wouldn't do that job without a lift, he said I take my hat off to you. Getting those fittings on and off thru the subframe is like an exercise in near impossibility. He said it was very rare for those rack to fail when the cars were newer. Mine is fine actually, just the tubes rotted out.
tbirdguy is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the TCCoA Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome