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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-10-2018, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Any undercar pics around?

I installed a new PS pressure hose (old one looked rotted) and the steel tube is sitting on and contacting crossbrace. It does not look right, not sure if it is supposed to sit below. I can throw some rubber or flex tube on it in the worst case. Maybe the angle is a bit off.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-11-2018, 01:40 AM
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Q: Which engine are you concerned about? 3.8 N/A, 3.8SC, 5.0, or 4.6?
Explaining that might help narrow things.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-11-2018, 06:03 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S4gunn View Post
Q: Which engine are you concerned about? 3.8 N/A, 3.8SC, 5.0, or 4.6?
Explaining that might help narrow things.
Ahh, my sig isn't there. 4.6 would be helpful.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-11-2018, 11:59 AM
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I dont have any pictures but when I replaced my hoses nothing matched back up. I just zip tied it into place and so that it was held up, called it a day. I have still been running like that for 2 years.

First: Stacie, 1996 Tbird LX, mild build NPI engine, PI cams and intake, Long tube headers, Jmod.

Second: Ellie, 1989 Tbird SC, r̶e̶s̶t̶o̶r̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶b̶e̶ ̶n̶e̶w̶ ̶d̶a̶i̶l̶y̶. off the deep end

Third: 1997 Dodge Ram 1500, thirsty daily.

Fourth: 1990 Tbird SC, GT40 5.0 mated to m5r2, BBK long tubes, motor out the hood, drift car.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-11-2018, 05:12 PM
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Just looked through my old pics, the only one I have is this one from when I had a bad PS leak. Yeah, you definitely don't want any metal-on-metal contact between the steel tube and the frame member. If memory serves right, the bushing you see between the tube and bracket is complemented by another bushing between the frame member and bracket. But yeah a split piece of rubber hose slipped over the tubing will work in a pinch.
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1996 Thunderbird LX (4.6), previous daily driver

1995 Mustang GT (5.0), daily driver
1995 GMC C2500 (5.7), alternate daily driver
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-11-2018, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks gentlemen,

I think there was some bushing that is missing, I noticed a stud on the bar, I'll fab something up. I'm not looking for perfection here :lol:

Those pictures give me nightmares , I ended up doing it twice because the replacement return fitting didn't seal into the rack. The stock one has a slightly smaller nut.
Do not use this part:
CARQUEST Power Steering 16MM Swivel O-Ring (Type III) x 3/8" Beaded Tube
Part No: 35019

Getting the rubber return hose on was a PITA too, in that cramped area. I ended up heating it with a heatgun. I ended up replumbing most of the return lines with 3/8" PS tube.

It is possible to remove the rack without taking the oil filter off, I used an 18mm stubby from HF.

Tips for future visitors:
1) the clamp for the rack is going to be impossible to remove and install unless you expand it. Insert a steel washer or plate in the slit, and twist the bolt from the threaded end until it expands a bit. I don't know how much you can go but you are going to have to spread it a bit to get it off and on. It should technically slide off, but being these cars are 21yrs old, good luck. The exhaust provides some leverage to pry things. A shop I asked about an alignment said they just gave up on some of those clamps, he asked me when can I start :lol:.
2) Disconnect the universal under the steering wheel too, be careful not to rotate things (I may have messed that up, my wheel is a bit off). The column collapses but that will make it much easier. Lock the steering wheel.
3) Removing lines is almost an act of impossibility on the floor. I suggest removing the oil filter (could be done on, I didn't want to deal with it twice). Put a 3/4" backup wrench on the 90deg pressure fitting and remove the PS line with an 18mm. The HF stubby is a good idea.
4) Cut the rubber return line flush to the metal. It is practically part of the metal after all these years, you will have slack to reinstall.
5) Using I believe a 24mm and a 21mm, remove the rack bolts.
6) This is the tricky part. You cant remove the rack with the pressure fitting elbow. Drop the rack a bit, and remove the elbow with an 18mm from under the subframe (yes, this sucks).
7) The return elbow comes out with the rack, do not replace it if its not leaking.
Install is the reverse...

If you don't buy new hoses, you have to by teflon rings and push them(or work them) onto the old fittings. Do not skip this!


The aftermarket pressure elbow fit fine.

Another thing I suggest is removing your steering tank, and cleaning it out with brake cleaner (I like the Advance Auto Black can, it leaves no residue). There is a filter on the bottom that collects gunk and makes steering harder. My 95 PS actually calls for Type F fluid, and the spec was never changed according to Ford. Don't question your woman :lol:. Got it at WM, not playing games at this point :lol:.

95 4.6L Rusty Survivor!
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-11-2018, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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P.S. My tubing actually contacts the fake stabilizer bar at the front of the subframe that is held on by two bolts. Everything else on the subframe is pinned in place. It is the part of the tube closer to the pump.

95 4.6L Rusty Survivor!
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