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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-23-2003, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
 
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Unhappy Help please:-)

Engine: 3.8L V6
Help! (I am keeping the T-Bird, scrap the Jag)
I need some help I am re-falling in love with my T-Bird and I have been taken in as an apprentice to a mechanic but I need some help. I am going to be leaving on a trip to Richmond tomorrow (24th) and I think I have a bad tank of gas, the CHECK ENGINE light comes on, then will turn off after i have stopped or reached a lower speed. I am not sure if the bad stuff burned off yet but the car will kind of "lurch" when the gas is applied in a medium dose (above twenty and below 55mph). I was running late this morning and I was doing between 40 and 65mph right off the bat (no warming up), could I have damaged the engine? Could it be a short, do I need O2 sensors (I have a K&N filter in it, but it just started this today and I have not driven it really since I have got the gas in it, its been sitting for about two days), or is there a short in the electronics? Oil pressure is good, so is the tempreture and battery is good.

help and its good to be back, at least the T-Bird is easy and cheap to fix, doesn't look half bad either;-)!

Jesse
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-23-2003, 03:25 PM
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Get the codes scanned. If the light came on it should have stored some information

Birdless

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-23-2003, 03:44 PM
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K & N filter...........dirty MAF sensor

Try cleaning the MAF



Pre-emptive strike;

Use the search feature to see countless posts on how to clean it.


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1995 T-Bird LX 4.6 retired at 247,888 miles
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-23-2003, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
 
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I tried to have the codes run but apparentley the 3.8 cannot interact with a scanner from the port under the glove box, is there another plug that I am missing? Would a dirty MAF set of the CHECK ENGINE light, I will unscrew it and spray with windex to clean in (thats what I am told, but if neccacery DON'T wipe it off, if you have to use a Q-Tip!).

thanks

Jesse
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-23-2003, 07:16 PM
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95 3.8 were still eec IV ... only the 4.6 in 95 used the eec V ... should be eec IV connections under hood on drivers side near the fuse box if i can remember correctly ... but its definitely under the hood. Someone help me out with exact location... its been awhile.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-23-2003, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
 
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Ok, I thought they were on the passanger side (some plugs there too!). But would a MAF sensor set of the "check engine light?"

thanks

Jesse
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-23-2003, 07:41 PM
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Yes, the MAF can set off the check engine light!

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-23-2003, 07:42 PM
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Yes, a problem with the MAF can trigger a check engine light, but it also may not.

EDIT: Whoops, TGJ beat me to it.........lol

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1995 T-Bird LX 4.6 retired at 247,888 miles
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-23-2003, 07:46 PM
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yes MAF sensors set it off ... but being intermittent and on and off so quickly makes me lean towards o2 or a short....

yea the plugs there too sometimes its been almost a yr since ive worked at the dealership. small personal aircraft is my bag now.

Sometimes the sensors will read just in and out of range to turn the CEL on. usually take about 3 cycles for light to come on. and you may be driving, computer sees ideal conditions to run test (test is dependant on certain variables: speed, tp, etc) and it'll pass. but if you look at datalogger it will show slightly slower than normal switching/readings/amps.

'But its hard to come close to diag a driveability prob w/o running the test.

"You Should See the Front!"

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-23-2003, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
 
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Here is what the engine light does, it will stay on for awhile epecially when I press the gas an accelerate slowley and after I reach a constant speed it shuts off and I did notice when I was sitting in traffic, it seemed to lurch and the RPM's dropped than came back up like it was normal. Most of the trip she rides smooth like normal but I get an occasional engine knock (is that the right term?) that I can feel. Also how do I guarantee an air tight seal after cleaning the MAf, and will AutoZone run a computer diagnostic for free? Is there still a possability it could be a watered down tank of gas?

and I thank everyone for the answers, will it be safe for a 350 mile treck to Virginia (I am in Maryland and am allowing for mileage
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