I think it would be ok for a short block but you need different heads (96+ with F5 casting). The ones you have are junk and it would not be prudent to put those back on a fresh motor. You'll still need to have machine work done so figure another couple hundred dollars. Then having some heads reworked would be another few hundred, so in the end you'll have around $1,200 or so into it. You could find a good used one for cheaper than that.
It depends on what kind of motor you find. If it's high mileage it will be cheap (~$300-$500) but one with reasonably low miles might go for around $700 or so. You can use any 4.6L SOHC motor up to 1998 and use all your engine components on it. If possible look for a 96+ so that you get the benefit of the better head design.
I just searched on car-part.com and found a 4.6L with 35k miles for $1,000 and another with 57k for $600.
Or you can find a PI Explorer motor for reasonably cheap.I got mine for $1100 with 2k miles on it.Best money I ever spent.But because I was swaping it into a 95 car I had to find some extra parts.Alot of parts I bought new.But the motor had a Electronic Throttle body which involve me finding a new plenum,IAC,and a 96 Throttle body.I got that stuff from a member here for pretty cheap but I had to buy a new EGR valve.After everything was all said and done and installed I had spent just over $1800.Then I got it tuned for maximum perfomace which set me back another $500.
If you are to look at swaping a PI Explorer look for an 02 as you will not have to swap the Plenum and other top end parts.
04 PI swap,SVO Supercharger 8-9 psi,Alcohol injection,39lbs Cobra injectors,XCal2-Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump,4.10 T-Lok,2003 4R70W built to withstand by RobertP,450hp JMOD,3800 circleD stall,trucool 4739 Trans Cooler,Dynotech 3.5 Driveshaft,70mm T/B,SCP Cold Air Intake,90mm LMAF,JBA headers,Magnaflow Midmount,No cats with 3inch piping,Vogtland 1.6inch drop,Cobra R's and xenon body kit.
car-part.com is a site the looks at the listed stock of hundreds of car junkyards over the country. Its not just one guy or one company. I'd assume that they are all professional car recycling companies. However each one is probably a little different. Im sure some have warranties for certain items. I bought a used tranny for my brothers tbird, and it had a 90 day replacement warranty. I thought that was decent. Do your homework, call around and ask lots of questions.
If you want it to go "Vrom-vrom" you'll have to mod it, lol! But if you want a stock engine that'll give you more power then what you have in there now go with a 99+ PI, but your going to be paying more then $600.
God Bless the men & women who have served and serving to keep us free
good mod for less than the cost of a chip? drive only on downhill slopes
seriously man, when i said going fast costs money, i meant it......unless you can get a trak-lock differential, 4.10 gears, and have them installed for less than $300, less money than that will not make an appreciable difference in acceleration what so ever......there is not a mystical part on your car that when tightened/loosened, turned/rotated, or otherwise change the orientation of said part with a screwdriver/ratchet/wrench will suddenly drop your 0-60mph times or 1/4mi times
Last edited by guitar maestro; 11-28-2007 at 11:23 PM.
That would cost you about $1400 if you did all the work yourself and you'd be shocked at the difference it would make. After those mods, the next area of interest would be the trans / converter.
-5.0 Big Bore ...
Ran @ Normal Operating Temps, No Race Tune, No Setup Changes from Daily Driven Configurations
9.0 @ 78 (1/8 Mile only in Abilene )
2.06 60' on Street Tires (BFG G-Force Super Sport 245/50/16)
3805 Lbs, Stock Exhaust Manifolds
Density Altitude = 4132'
That Run, Corrected for Standard Day
1/8 mile: 8.75 @ 82
well that might be ok,it would take me some time to get $1400 but that might do it.
oh and my climate control will not work on any thing but defrost,and its cold here in tennessee..help please..its so cold........so cold
That's what happens when the vacuum to the climate control is missing. It defaults to the defrost mode so that you can still defrost/defog the windows. I would start by checking the vacuum tee by the firewall near the A/C lines and make sure nothing is broken. If everything is ok, you might have to pull the climate control unit and look at the lines, trace them out, and make sure nothing is disconnected.
thanks.....where is the vacum tee,ac lines and firewall.....sorry i'm stupid
The firewall is the structural wall of the car that seperates the passenger compartment from the engine bay...and the A/C lines run along the passenger shock tower and go into the firewall. The vacuum tee is right beside the A/C lines, by the firewall.
No offense but it sounds like you don't know too much about cars. It's really not prudent to attempt to diagnose a problem like this, especially over the internet and if it's your first time.
is there a place you can go to do a 5.4l swap,and how much would it cost.....thanks
Generally a shop that will do this kind of work will charge out the ass for this kind of swap IF you can find one that will do it. But a 5.4L swap isn't the best bang for the buck swap and the power it outputs doesn't merit it going into the car.