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post #1 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-03-2008, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Block help

EDIT:

I just got a 98 Teksid block and plan on building a forged 2V block for future build. Check the lastest postings and help me with my questions...please

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post #2 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-03-2008, 05:56 PM
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OxmanWI,

That means there is a hole in which the threads have been stripped. The solution is to bore it out and install a helicoil. Not that big of a deal - any competent machine shop could do it.

Are you planning on building a big bore? A Teksid block is the optimum starting point. As a point of reference, I paid $430 for mine, with no repairs required.

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post #3 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-03-2008, 06:13 PM
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Yep, easy fix. That's a good price, too, if it doesn't shoot up right at the end of the auction.

-Rod

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post #4 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-03-2008, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
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Yes I've been shopping around, there are a couple machine shops in my area that are bore worthy. Just taking it one step at a time, not jumping into any thing as of now. Thanks for the heads up!

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post #5 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-03-2008, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racecougar View Post
Yep, easy fix. That's a good price, too, if it doesn't shoot up right at the end of the auction.

-Rod
I sent him a ebay question and he is willing to end the auction early, I asked him what he wants for the block, so waiting for a response.

EDIT:

He wants $500 to end the auction

I'm going to offer $400 and see what he says.

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post #6 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-03-2008, 07:07 PM
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$400 is a pretty average price for a Teksid block in good condition.

-Rod

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post #7 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-03-2008, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah he said no to my $400...

Going to watch it on "my ebay" and see what happens.

Thanks for the help guys!

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post #8 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-03-2008, 07:45 PM
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I've got 2 $400 96-98 blocks with zero damage if you want them. Shipping runs only $50 or so to WI.
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post #9 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-03-2008, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
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lol, ok...

PM sent

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post #10 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-03-2008, 08:47 PM
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I can pull a short block Mark motor at pick-n-pull for about 150.00. I need to go see about making some money.

Ox. You should have come down for hte Christmas party.......

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post #11 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-06-2008, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
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Well Looks like I'll be having a 98 Teksid block on the way thanks to Mad1stGen. I have a set of PI heads that I'm going to have cleaned and P&P'd in the next couple weeks. The only thing that's really going to hurt my wallet is the forged goodies. Anyone have any good threads I can read up on? I've been reading Rods DOHC thread and couple others for the short block version. I know I'm going to need dished pistons to keep compression down with the PI heads. "H" beams are a must from what I'm reading. I’m sticking with the AED kit, but with the 9 PSI pulley. Any comments and helpful suggestions are appreciated so thanks in advanced.

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I can pull a short block Mark motor at pick-n-pull for about 150.00. I need to go see about making some money.

Ox. You should have come down for hte Christmas party.......
I wish I could have made it, but the family wasn't going to have it, lol

Thanks,

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post #12 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-06-2008, 11:08 PM
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Understood.
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post #13 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-07-2008, 09:23 AM
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My first recommendation is to not drop your static compression ratio too far. You get better overall performance (better throttle response, fuel economy, etc) with more static compression and less boost, than with the opposite combination. I went with 9.3:1 static and (initially) 6 psi boost on my big bore NPI engine. Will be moving up to about 7.5 psi after break-in.

Another upgrade you should consider is to use a Cobra oil pump. You'll need the larger diameter Mark VIII pick up tube, of course.

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post #14 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-07-2008, 08:37 PM
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I agree with not dropping the CR too much. I dropped mine down to 8.9:1, with plans to eventually put quite a bit of boost to that engine. I'd recommend keeping the CR somewhere around 9:1 with a PD blower.

I'm not sure about running the Cobra oil pump with the SOHC heads. Some will recommend it for the higher flow, while some will say that it will actually pump too much oil to the heads on a SOHC. I'd just recommend reading up on it before making the decision. That said, I've been very happy with the Melling Select Cobra High Output pump I'm running.

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post #15 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-11-2008, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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If I keep a standard bore (3.552) what "CC" dish piston would I want to go with if I where to maintain a static compression ratio of 9.7:1?

The reason I ask is...that is the stock compression for the PI engine. Is that ratio a good start?

Thanks,

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post #16 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-11-2008, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OxmanWI View Post
If I keep a standard bore (3.552) what "CC" dish piston would I want to go with if I where to maintain a static compression ratio of 9.7:1?

Thanks,
It's going to vary a little depending on what headgaskets you run and whether or not the block or heads are decked. But generally speaking, a 16-18cc dish would keep your CR very close to 9.7:1 with the PI SOHC heads and stock bore/stroke.

-Rod

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post #17 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-11-2008, 06:05 PM
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I just saw the other question you added to your post. Personally, I'd drop the CR just a bit. Once again, it will depend on your headgasket compressed thickness, headgasket bore diameter, and how far you have the pistons in the hole, but with general 4.6L numbers here you will see:

16cc ~ 9.79:1
17cc ~ 9.66:1
18cc ~ 9.53:1
19cc ~ 9.41:1
20cc ~ 9.29:1
21cc ~ 9.17:1
22cc ~ 9.05:1

If it were my choice, I would be looking to keep the CR around 9.0:1 to 9.3:1. I'd be looking for a 20-22cc dished piston. I'd also highly recommend deciding on a headgasket before ordering your pistons, and getting the necessary headgasket specs I listed above to doublecheck what the CR will be with the different dish volumes.

-Rod

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post #18 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-11-2008, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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It's going to vary a little depending on what headgaskets you run and whether or not the block or heads are decked.
-Rod
Decked means how clean and flat, right?

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post #19 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-11-2008, 09:40 PM
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Without delving way into it, decking/shaving is the process of machining the deck surfaces to acheive trueness. Basically, if your deck surfaces of the block or the heads are not perfectly flat and true, you'll need a machine shop to remove material to true up the surfaces. Removing material from the cylinder block deck surface will effect your CR by raising the top of the piston relative to the cylinder block deck surface. Removing material from the head surface will effect your CR by decreasing combustion chamber volume.

No matter what, the deck surfaces need to be spotless before the heads are installed. That isn't considered in calculating CR because it's a given.

-Rod

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post #20 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-16-2008, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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Rod or anyone...

Is there a 4.6 build book or DVD I can buy to study up on the build after the short block is made? I really want to do it my self and save the money on labor.

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post #21 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-16-2008, 07:39 PM
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As long as you don't take every word in there as fact, Sean Hyland's book, "How to Build Max-Performance 4.6-Liter Ford Engines", is at least worth owning.

-Rod

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post #22 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-16-2008, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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I own it

I just ordered the DVD about an hour ago, I heard good things about it.

When doing the engine swap I have a Clinton book for the 1987-97 Thunderbirds. Is this the best book for taking the engine out of the car? I know I have the forum here, but would like to have a book to look on first before I ask here.

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post #23 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-16-2008, 08:26 PM
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I think you mean Chilton's. I think I have both the Chilton's and Hayne's manuals around here (don't know where I put them), and I don't remember much difference between them. Removing and reinstalling the engine is really straightforward on these cars. With a repair manual, you shouldn't have any problems.

-Rod

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post #24 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-24-2008, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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After looking at these pictures, what would you recommend needs to be done. I'm going to be taking the block to a local engine / machine shop in the area, one the best in Wisconsin. What are some things I need to ask and tell them so I don’t look like a total newbie. I know a jet clean and decking needs to be done. How about the sleeves? Can they be cleaned up or are they any good. I can take more pictures later. Any ideas are helpful!

Thanks,









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post #25 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-24-2008, 03:30 PM
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have it magnafluxed and decked if it isn't true

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post #26 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-24-2008, 03:31 PM
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magnafluxing checks for cracks that the human eye would never see, the the term decking refers to getting the block to head surface perfectly smooth, which you'll want with boost

-1996 Pearl White Thunderbird 4.6 Sport 4v with many mods:
Current Best: 13.583 @ 103.74 10/2014.
227hp/241tq measured on calibrated mustang dyno, tested at full vehicle simulation with inertia enabled, no number skewing.
-2001 White Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.8 V10, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG KO2's, Bilstein 7100 Remote Reservoir Race Bypass Shocks, 6" Spring lift, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, FlowMaster Exhaust
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post #27 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-24-2008, 05:27 PM
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You can't magnaflux an aluminum block, as aluminum is nonferrous.

First off, it will need a good cleaning and inspection. The machine shop will know all of this, but they will need to check the sleeves with a dial indicator, check the trueness of the deck...basically give it a full inspection to see what they are starting with.

Deburring the block is a good idea, and it's something that you could do yourself to save a little money. Deburring = removing any casting flash/sharp edges in the block using a file or carefully with a dremel and grinding stone. Just don't get too carried away with that.

Until you know what you're working with, I wouldn't do much though.

-Rod

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post #28 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-25-2008, 12:19 AM Thread Starter
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Ok cool, they where telling me the same thing, "bring it in and we'll go from there". I'll be taking it to the shop some time next week for the inspection. Deburring looks like a do it yourself job so that shouldn't be hard at all. I've been watching that DVD and seem to cover a lot of info on this.

Questions:

Will the 03-04 cobra water pump work on this block with the 2V set up?

What is the purpose of the trigger wheel? What does this do?

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Last edited by OxmanWI; 01-25-2008 at 03:07 AM.
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post #29 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-25-2008, 06:04 AM
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I'm not sure if that water pump will work out with the rest of your setup.

The crankshaft position sensor uses the trigger wheel to determine the position of the crankshaft.

-Rod

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post #30 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-25-2008, 05:10 PM
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Start with a cleaning, then check the mains. The order goes mains, then bores then decks. If they do it out of order the work is wasted. If they don't know this or want to do it different, pay them for what they've done and walk away.




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