Drip, Drip, Drip - Kooks Owners Beware - TCCoA Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-02-2002, 02:25 AM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Bigiron383's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Phoenix,AZ
Age: 72
Posts: 382
I'd be more worried about the pigeon walking around on the hot pipes.

Bigiron383 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 10:54 AM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Palm City, FL
Age: 69
Posts: 2,577
Drip, Drip, Drip - Kooks Owners Beware

So, I took GB out to play one evening. I'm on a nice straight, flat, desolate strip of road out in the middle of nowhere. I stop the car. I rev the engine a few times, then floor it. The engine springs to life, the wheels start to spin, and then I hear it .... a "thunk" as something hits the undercarriage, another "thunk" as whatever it is hits the pavement, and at the same time, instant exhaust leak sound.

I say to myself, "Darn, the collector bolts loosened again, and one popped out."

Wrong!!

I only wish it were that simple.

What happened was a piece of the passenger side header blew out, and I had a quarter-sized hole in the top of one of my header pipes:

THE HOLE









The rest of the header is fine - no cracks or fissures or corrosion, and the driver's side header is fine.

I called Kooks to tell them and find out if there was any recourse. They told me to provide them with a picture and a copy of the original invoice, showing that I'm the original purchaser. Well, there was no way to get a picture until a bunch of stuff was removed from the top, or until the header was removed, so I started that process. In subsequent conversation with Kooks I found out that they no longer make the T-bird headers, they sold the flanges and jigs to another company. I also found out that they will "repair or replace" at their discretion, and they only warranty their stainless steel products, they don't warranty mild steel headers. They also do not re-coat the repaired or replacement headers - the costomer has to pay for that. The rep couldn't really tell me what would happen if a replacement was necessary, since Kooks no longer has the flanges or jigs. That question is moot, anyway, since my headers were made from mild steel and not under warranty (I don't think they offered them in stainless). I'm not complaining about Kooks, mind you, I'm fully aware that it's part of the game with a highly modified car - stuff just is what it is, and you gotta pay to play. I'm merely passing on information I learned.

So, what to do? what to do? Here's what I did:

THE PATCH







So, what caused such an unusual type of failure? My exhaust guy and I scratched our heads for awhile trying to figure out how it happened. Then we figured it out (we think).

The Culprit:



Yep, that's it. The evaporation drain from the air conditioner. I'm sure most of the guys with Kooks headers noticed that the A/C evaporation drips right on the headers. I know I noticed the periodic "hiss," figured out what it was, and, thinking only about rust potential, said to myself, "No problem, the water instantly turns to steam, and won't be on the tube long enough to rust it." I actually thought it was kinda cool (literally) that I could sit on line at the track with my A/C on, and no one would know or complain, 'cause no water ever leaked to the pavement.

What I failed to consider is that the process of evaporating the water cools the metal, if only for an instant, then the metal reheats (expands), then cools (contracts), then heats, etc. - over and over again, every time I run the A/C, which is most of the time in Florida. This constant expansion and contraction, only minute, but confined to this small, concentrated area must have caused stress fractures in the metal, and eventual failure. This explains why the failure is only on the passenger side, only in the one place, and would explain why the hole is nearly perfectly round. The evaporation water hits the tube and spreads out in a circle, only so far before it evaporates off the tube. Of course I'm not 100% sure, 'cause with the headers out, I can't really tell if the hole is in the exact spot where the evaporation hit, but it seems to be. At least that's all I could figure out, if someone has another explanation for the failure, feel free to chime in.

To prevent it from happening again, I'm gonna attach a 3/4 inch ID hose with a 90 degree bend to the evaporation drain and route the water elsewhere.

Removing the passenger side header from GB involved much "weeping and gnashing of teeth." With the aftermarket valve covers and all the intake plumbing, there is no way to get to any of the header bolts from the top. So, the front suspension had to come out along with the K-member, while we supported the motor from the top. Then, we had to raise and lower and tilt the motor from side to side, and remove the A/C dryer and variouse hoses to get to all of the header bolts. It did not help the removal that the bolts are Stage 8's, and they won't be easy to clip back in, but they are the only way to go.

If they haven't already done so, anyone with Kooks headers should consider re-routing that evaporation drip. Just sayin'



-mike

96 GoldBird

'96 T-Bird LX 4.6L Alive & well & living in S. Florida

N/A:
Renegade NPI heads/Comp Cams; OEM intake manifold; Bolt-ons
245 rwhp; 13.713 @ 99.35 (Commerce, GA - November 2003)


BLOWN: Renegade NPI heads; Renegade shortblock; Intercooled T-Trim; some other stuff
Pump Gas Numbers - 547 rwhp / 525 ft.lbs; Best Time - 11.388 @ 118.68 (Commerce, GA - November 2007)
96 GoldBird is offline  
post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 11:00 AM
Voice/Data Guru
 
Boston-Bull's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Grapevine TX
Posts: 7,779
Hmmm I wonder if they were made from CHEAP China steel

2017 Mustang GT 5.0L 2nd gen, cold air box,tune,6 speed auto,RGR 3.31, Magnaflow Tru X-pipe ,GT350RStrips
Gray Mustang Registry # 8582


Boston-Bull is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 11:46 AM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Nebraska
Age: 35
Posts: 2,544
Send a message via AIM to FunktasticLucky
I'm more curious in that Kooks no longer makes headers for our cars :/ So who is making them for SCP?? Hmmmm Or are these a different type of header and not the 3/4 lengths?

2018 Lincoln MKZ Black Label 3.0T AWD
FunktasticLucky is offline  
post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 12:04 PM
2nd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Sweden
Posts: 86
There is probably noting wrong with the material in the headers, but all know that you should not put water on hot steel. It may crack. Thanks for the information about the drain of the AC.

Berth
Berth is offline  
post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 12:25 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Palm City, FL
Age: 69
Posts: 2,577
Quote:
Originally Posted by Berth View Post
There is probably noting wrong with the material in the headers

Berth
I would agree with that. I had the passenger side header in my hands and was able to inspect it carefully and I saw no other evidence of any potential failure. The metal we cut around the hole, was intact. Also, I have not heard of anyone else with any problems with the headers.

I will say, however, that the tubes appeared to be only 16 or 18 guage.

As for who is making the headers - someone should probably call Kooks and verify what I was told. I did not pursue the question. Here's the website:

Kooks

and the number I called was 1-866-586-KOOK (5665). They also have moved from Long Island to Statesville, NC.

-mike
96 GoldBird is offline  
post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 12:29 PM
Seasoned Veteran Poster
 
Buckcreekbilly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Canada
Posts: 875
Still would like to see a pic of your painted and finished hood.

95 Thunderbird LX 4.6
K&N cold air intake. True 2 1/4" duals, Xenon GFX. 3:55 Trac loc. Beefier trans, 2800 stall convertor, MkV111 aluminum driveshaft.
Buckcreekbilly is offline  
post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 12:30 PM
Veteran Poster
 
paintme205's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: lawton ok
Age: 34
Posts: 836
Thanks for the heads up Mike. I'm sure no one wants to pull their headers...what a royal pain.

I guess I don't need to worry since I have no ac on my motor.

96 v8 4.6 explorer, kooks headers, off road x, magnaflow mufflers, cl tb/plenum, lmaf, gt tube, xcal tune, alum shaft, 3800 dirty dog converter, darrin trans, 373 gears, hoosier slicks on fanblades, pbr brakes, Skinnies on front, No PS or AC, Aeromotive EWP, major weight removal (3380 LBS), 12.78 OLD COMBO.
paintme205 is offline  
post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 01:55 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Palm City, FL
Age: 69
Posts: 2,577
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckcreekbilly View Post
Still would like to see a pic of your painted and finished hood.
So would I, but "aesthetic" projects are on hold for now. Maybe sometime after the first of the year I can get my paint guy to shoot the hood.

-mike
96 GoldBird is offline  
post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 01:58 PM
Road warrior extrodinaire

Super Moderator
 
Trunk Monkey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: This week: Dominican Republic
Posts: 11,747
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Berth View Post
There is probably noting wrong with the material in the headers, but all know that you should not put water on hot steel. It may crack. Thanks for the information about the drain of the AC.

Berth


Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderChecken View Post
Hmmm I wonder if they were made from CHEAP China steel
Even the best steel will fatigue under the conditions described by GoldBird.
_________________________

Thanks for posting this info Goldbird. I'll be implementing the AC drain re-route that you described right away.

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto
Trunk Monkey is offline  
post #11 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 02:10 PM
PostSlut
 
_95badbird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Spring Texas
Age: 39
Posts: 13,597
Quote:
Originally Posted by paintme205 View Post
Thanks for the heads up Mike. I'm sure no one wants to pull their headers...what a royal pain.

I guess I don't need to worry since I have no ac on my motor.
I bet it is a pain with the 4.6l in the way.....I tell you though, even with all the open room I have, it took me quite a few hours...err days to fit mine.

Nick......................I'm back!!!
May you fly low and fast
rest in peace JL
_95badbird is offline  
post #12 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 04:12 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Tinton Falls, NJ
Age: 36
Posts: 7,428
Garage
Send a message via AIM to MadMikeyL
Judging by the first picture, I have to disagree with your diagnosis. That first pic shows both the hole in the primary tube as well as the A/C drain on the dash, and you can see that the hole is a good 4-6" forward of the firewall. I have no idea what else might have caused it, but I really doubt the A/C drain had anything to do with it.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, and ported big valve heads
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-90 SC Automatic rustbucket winter beater
-97 Tbird Sport 4.6 Nice weather daily driver
-"Your buddy Mike is INSANE!" -ClintD's dad
MadMikeyL is offline  
post #13 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 06:08 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Palm City, FL
Age: 69
Posts: 2,577
Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMikeyL View Post
Judging by the first picture, I have to disagree with your diagnosis. That first pic shows both the hole in the primary tube as well as the A/C drain on the dash, and you can see that the hole is a good 4-6" forward of the firewall.
Right you are, I didn't even see that. Due to the angle that the camera was at, I'm not sure the firewall is 6-8 inches from the hole, but it sure appears to be forward of the hole. The camera was not pointed straight down, so the perspective is scewed.

I'll know better tomorrow. The header will be re-installed and all the various hoses and cables, etc will be back in place, and I'll be able to see if it's at all possible that the evaporation either dripped directly on, or somehow traveled to that place. That the water hit the header somewhere is undeniable, exactly where it hit is the question, and I'll know more tomorrow.

Actually, someone out there with Kooks can run their car with the A/C on and see if they can find where the water hits and let everyone know.

Anyhow, wherever the evaporation hits the header, it's probably a good idea to re-route it. I did. I ran a hose through the chassis and the water will drip straight to the ground behind the front tire.

-mike
96 GoldBird is offline  
post #14 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 06:33 PM
Chapter Director Coordinator
Moderator
 
jamesD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Kissimmee
Age: 37
Posts: 6,253
jet-hot coating didnt help either?


I bust ARP bolts by hand...

If Guns kill people, then...
...pencils miss spel werds
...cars make people drive drunk
...spoons made Rosie O'Donnell fat
~Gun Owners of America
jamesD is offline  
post #15 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-11-2009, 08:12 AM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Palm City, FL
Age: 69
Posts: 2,577
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesD View Post
jet-hot coating didnt help either?
Assuming my theory is correct, and I'm not sure it is, it's the cooling process that stressed the metal, not the actual water hitting the metal. I'm thinking that when the water hit the tube, the coating lost heat to the water, the metal underneath lost heat to the coating, causing contraction, that would be the cooling process caused by evaporation. The coating may have slowed or mitigated the cooling somewhat, but ultimately if the water evaporates, the surface it hits will lose heat, and in turn, so will everything in contact with the surface losing heat. I mean, that's just the cooling process in general, material doesn't gain cool, it loses heat, and heat travels from hot material to cooler material. But that comes from someone with only an undergraduate degree in chemistry, I'm sure there's someone out there more qualified chemistry or physics or metallurgy than I that can explain or discredit the theory.

But all that aside, the Kooks rep I talked to said that in their experience, in general, coating is detrimental to the integrity of the metal of the headers. He explained to me that the coating holds the heat in the metal rather than letting it dissipate into the air. That causes the metal itself to become hotter than it would without the coating, and over-hot metal tends to crystalize and crack more often that cooler metal. He said they see more failures with coated headers than those without coating. In terms of heat, the coating is to keep heat out of the engine compartment, it is not for the benefit of the metal. That was his explanation, not mine. Again I'm just passing on information I was given by Kooks. Personally I feel that the coating has other benefits - appearance and it acts to slow down or eliminate external rust on mild steel.

Anyhow, I stopped by the shop this morning, and the good news is that barring any unforseen hitches, GB will be back on the road later this afternoon, and "terrorizing" the streets of S. Florida.



-mike
96 GoldBird is offline  
post #16 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-11-2009, 10:23 AM
Overkill Fetish Freak
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: On the edge
Age: 53
Posts: 2,458
I'd also have to dis-agree, the drip normally lands on the spot where the tubes connect and even if it was reciving a daliy drip you would see the witness mark. Looks like a bullet hole to me.

BTW, Your welder needs to go back to welding skool!

-Scott
Dr. FrankenCougie is offline  
post #17 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-11-2009, 12:06 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Palm City, FL
Age: 69
Posts: 2,577
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. FrankenCougie View Post
I'd also have to dis-agree, the drip normally lands on the spot where the tubes connect and even if it was reciving a daliy drip you would see the witness mark.
I'm sure you're right, but I can't check it 'til it's back together. I knew the water hit the header somewhere. There are no other marks anywhere on the header, and with it in my hands, I couldn't really tell where the hole lined up in relation to the firewall....

.... and it was the only explanation I could come up with given the shape of the hole and the fact that there was no corrosion or cracks anywhere around the hole, or anywhere else.

Quote:
Looks like a bullet hole to me.
Now that explanation never occurred to me. There's no corresponding hole in the top of the hood, though

Quote:
BTW, Your welder needs to go back to welding skool!

-Scott
... and you need to go back to skool school...

Yeah, he's been welding exhausts for 30 years, he may have forgotton a few things from school. At this point, my ONLY concern is that it doesn't leak, and the patch doesn't pop off, and it looks like he's got that pretty much covered. As for how it looks, it's not in a real easy place to get a grinder. It's not in an easy place to get the welder, for that matter. It's not like he had much choice in his "angle of attack." There's scarcely 1/16 of an inch between the tubes on the top back of the patch on the collector side and the tubes above block him from coming from the back, left or top. I had to look from under the car with a mirror to see the hole when the car was all put together. I couldn't get flashlight beam on it, or take a picture of it from the top. I think it'll be just about as hard to see the patch when it's done.

Anyway, like I said, how it looks is far less important to me than how it works and how it lasts. I Don't ever want to have to do this again.

One good thing that came from all of this is that we're taking this opportunity to go through the A/C hoses and try to plug up the leaks and re-charge it. It may be December, but it's still bloody hot down here...

Next step, rear tires and an aligment.



-mike

96 GoldBird

'96 T-Bird LX 4.6L Alive & well & living in S. Florida

N/A:
Renegade NPI heads/Comp Cams; OEM intake manifold; Bolt-ons
245 rwhp; 13.713 @ 99.35 (Commerce, GA - November 2003)


BLOWN: Renegade NPI heads; Renegade shortblock; Intercooled T-Trim; some other stuff
Pump Gas Numbers - 547 rwhp / 525 ft.lbs; Best Time - 11.388 @ 118.68 (Commerce, GA - November 2007)
96 GoldBird is offline  
post #18 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-11-2009, 12:36 PM
TCCoA Founder
Administrator
 
Sir William's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Mountain Home, AR
Age: 49
Posts: 4,161
...then MORE rear tires.

God Bless and Fly Low!

Sir William
TCCoA Founder


97 Thunderbird LX - Smoothed

99 Expedition Eddie Bauer

04 Grand Cherokee Overland
Sir William is offline  
post #19 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-11-2009, 05:31 PM
Chapter Director Coordinator
Moderator
 
jamesD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Kissimmee
Age: 37
Posts: 6,253
and a diffy rebuild


I bust ARP bolts by hand...

If Guns kill people, then...
...pencils miss spel werds
...cars make people drive drunk
...spoons made Rosie O'Donnell fat
~Gun Owners of America
jamesD is offline  
post #20 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-12-2009, 08:52 AM
High-Mileage 4.6L Thrasher
Moderator
 
Johnny Langton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,232

Mine drips here,and I don't think that caused your hole. I honestly don't think the A/C condensate will cause any issues like this.
JL

1997 Thunderbird-4.6L/[email protected]
'05 F250 Crewcab 2WD-6.8L V10/5R110/4.10
2010 Lincoln MKT-3.5L EcoBoost V6/[email protected] stock
Fuelly
Johnny Langton is offline  
post #21 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-12-2009, 06:12 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
J.Miller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Allentown, PA
Posts: 2,009
That is odd. I am not sure that it is the AC dripping? Could be something fell on it hard at the wrong time? I doubt they would give you a warranty on that one...

If it was me while I had them out I would wrap them just to be safe. The wrap can protect them fro outside influences like water & etc and reduce heat...

J.Miller
East Coast Rolling Thunder!!!!
Official Eastern and Central PA chapter of the SCCoA!
J.Miller is offline  
post #22 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-14-2009, 08:15 AM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Palm City, FL
Age: 69
Posts: 2,577
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Langton View Post
Mine drips here,and I don't think that caused your hole. I honestly don't think the A/C condensate will cause any issues like this.
JL
That's the same place Scott described. My drain hose sticks through the firewall quite a ways, but not 3-4 inches, so unless the water it traveled down the vacuum line and dripded from there, it's unlikely the hole is from the evaporate. I "rushed to judgment," desperate to find a cause. I'm at a loss to explain the hole. My exhaust guy has never seen anything like it in 30 years, but he had seen some Mustang pipes crack due too evaporate over the years. Of course he's seen holes, we all have, but not with the surrounding metal so intact, with no corrosion, rust, cracks, etc. I've seen evaporate cause holes in an exhaust system, but it's from the inside and usually way further back in the system, near the mufflers.

Let's hope for everyone's sake that my issue is a total aberration. I'm sure it is. There are lot's of cars with Kooks out there with many more miles/hours of running time than GB and the headers are intact. GB was basically up on blocks for five years pretty much right after the Kooks were installed. There isn't much running time on them at all.

I've got the car back on the road, but didn't really have a chance to shine a light down there to see, but other than the possibility of the A/C evaporate traveling on a hose or cable, there's no reason to expect it to land anywhere different than on anyone else's.

We went ahead and re-routed the A/C evaporate line anyway. We ran a hose through the chassis so it drains on the outside of the chassis right behind the front wheel. It drips straight to the ground without hitting anything.



-mike
96 GoldBird is offline  
post #23 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009, 11:32 PM
TGJ
Baddest N/A NPI in Canada
 
TGJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Regina, Sask., Canada
Age: 44
Posts: 2,116
That is wierd. I don't know what caused that Mike but I agree with the others that no way was that caused by the A/C

Quote:
"Darn, the collector bolts loosened again, and one popped out."
You know what fixes that loose collector bolt? Loctite. Since I have put that on mine, not a single one has come loose since. Maybe it was a bad idea but it worked for me as I got tired of crawling under the car and replacing them.

R.I.P. Johnny Langton (1975 - 2011)

1996 Thunderbird 5.0L 2V-4R70W
12.64 @ 107 MPH -> DA 3315 Ft above Sea level
12.49 @ 109 -> DA 2967 Ft above Sea level
2005 Mustang GT 4.6L 3V-TR3650 - SOLD
13.39 @ 102 MPH -> DA 3617 Ft above Sea level
2011 Mustang GT 5.0L 4V-6R80 - Bolt-ons
12.32 @ 115 MPH -> DA 2980 Ft above Sea level
TGJ is offline  
post #24 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-08-2010, 11:17 PM
Road warrior extrodinaire

Super Moderator
 
Trunk Monkey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: This week: Dominican Republic
Posts: 11,747
Garage
I just noticed this dripping on the header on mine tonight.

I'm definitely going to reroute that drain away from the header.

Thanks for the warning!

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto
Trunk Monkey is offline  
post #25 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-09-2010, 05:09 AM
6th Gear Poster
 
Kaptn' Obvious's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Austin, TX
Age: 42
Posts: 654
Send a message via AIM to Kaptn' Obvious Send a message via Yahoo to Kaptn' Obvious
The install sounds like a Ton of work. For all that work I would take it down for a florescent particle inspection and a good heat treat. No doubt that internal stress is what caused the issue for whatever reason... A good heat treat should prevent any future problems.

When I get around to fabbing up headers they will receive the same treatment.

Mostly stock...

For now...
Kaptn' Obvious is offline  
post #26 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-09-2010, 12:15 PM
Converter Guy
 
dirtyd0g's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: batavia,oh
Age: 42
Posts: 6,617
Send a message via Yahoo to dirtyd0g
Loctite seems to burn off I prefer to get pinched thread type locknuts.
Alan

DirtyDog Performance.Com
Proud sponsor of the SC/XR7 Shootout and Joel Bender Memorial Nats

Please do not send me messages on forums they are too hard to keep up with and I don't check in very often anymore call me at 513 898-1580 or email me alan at dirtydogperformance.com
dirtyd0g is offline  
post #27 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-09-2010, 04:18 PM
TGJ
Baddest N/A NPI in Canada
 
TGJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Regina, Sask., Canada
Age: 44
Posts: 2,116
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey View Post
I just noticed this dripping on the header on mine tonight.

I'm definitely going to reroute that drain away from the header.

Thanks for the warning!
That drip on the header did not cause this problem. I do not know what caused the problem but there are many of us that have Kooks headers and use the A/C on our cars for over 5 years that did not develop this condition. I am one of them...

R.I.P. Johnny Langton (1975 - 2011)

1996 Thunderbird 5.0L 2V-4R70W
12.64 @ 107 MPH -> DA 3315 Ft above Sea level
12.49 @ 109 -> DA 2967 Ft above Sea level
2005 Mustang GT 4.6L 3V-TR3650 - SOLD
13.39 @ 102 MPH -> DA 3617 Ft above Sea level
2011 Mustang GT 5.0L 4V-6R80 - Bolt-ons
12.32 @ 115 MPH -> DA 2980 Ft above Sea level
TGJ is offline  
post #28 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-09-2010, 05:41 PM
Road warrior extrodinaire

Super Moderator
 
Trunk Monkey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: This week: Dominican Republic
Posts: 11,747
Garage
Wow, 5 years. That's a relief. Thanks for sharing your experience with this.

I'm just not comfortable with cool water repeatedly dripping on thin hot metal.

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto
Trunk Monkey is offline  
post #29 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-11-2012, 02:14 PM
PostWhore
 
281_TBird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Baker, MT
Age: 31
Posts: 1,390
Sorry for the thread resurrection but what did you guys do to reroute this drain? I was just going to use an elbow and then run a hose straight down but I cant find an elbow that fits in the drain. 3/8 is too small and I cant get the 1/2 inch in there. Just wondering what you used. Thanks.

1997 Ford Thunderbird, Built NA 2V/ T-45
1997 Ford Explorer AWD 5.0L
2003 Lincoln LS V8 Bolt Ons
2009 Yamaha VMax
2011 F-150 Lariat Limited 6.2L 4WD
2015 Ford Mustang GT Premium, Performance Pack, Recaros
281_TBird is offline  
post #30 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-11-2012, 03:04 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
Earl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Katy TX
Age: 36
Posts: 6,111
I could hear sizzle sizzle sizzle on my passenger side stock manifold the other day

2015 Mustang GT Premium / Manual / 3.55 / Recaro
Earl is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the TCCoA Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome