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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-01-2002, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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loss of power

I have not had much time to look into this yet just but here is the problem that I am having. I have no power over 3500 RPMs I can not go WOT or 1/2 throttle for that matter. any thing over 1/4 throttle the engine bogs down real bad and just wont go. I have cleaned my MAF and put on my spare one with no change. I thought maybe one of my cats was clogged and I just wanted to get rid of them so they are all gone now. I have checked fuel pressure and did a leak down test on my fuel system all checked out ok. the one thing that I saw that did not look right is both of my front O2 sensors where red like they have been heated by a torch. my car is not throwing any CEL and there are no codes stored in the computer. It started to rain on me so tomorrow I am going to take a look at my spark plugs and other sensors on the car. Any other ideas would be great I have all data but the test it tells me to do my car cant do because of this problem.

thanks

Autoxbird

95 Thunderbird LX
Drive train Mods:
full PI swap (03 grand marquis engine), 2000 Mustang GT 4R70W, C & L intake elbow, 73mm TB, 73mm MAF housing, CAI, flowmaster exhaust, 3.73 w/ trac lock and upgraded clutches, BOC tune.
Interior Mods:
SC seats

2008 Mazdaspeed 3
Drive train Mods:
Mazdaspeed cold air intake, TWM short throw shifter, motor mounts, and muffler delete

Last edited by autoxbird; 01-01-2002 at 03:54 PM.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-17-2010, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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Well I have not had much time to work on my car but so far I replaced my fuel filter and have gone through and checked my O2s, maf, tps, and coil packs but found nothing wrong with them. so I pulled my plugs to have a look at them and all of them the tips are red just like my O2s in the first post. this weekend I am going to do a compression test and cylinder leak down test to make sure I still have a good engine. I dont thank my engine has any bad cylinders but I just want to make sure they are fine. If any one has had this problem please chime in and let me know what could be causing this problem.

95 Thunderbird LX
Drive train Mods:
full PI swap (03 grand marquis engine), 2000 Mustang GT 4R70W, C & L intake elbow, 73mm TB, 73mm MAF housing, CAI, flowmaster exhaust, 3.73 w/ trac lock and upgraded clutches, BOC tune.
Interior Mods:
SC seats

2008 Mazdaspeed 3
Drive train Mods:
Mazdaspeed cold air intake, TWM short throw shifter, motor mounts, and muffler delete
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-17-2010, 10:25 PM
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maybe a vaccum leak....do u have a rough idle
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-17-2010, 11:34 PM
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how exactly did you check the O2s, maf, tps, and the coil packs?
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-18-2010, 07:43 AM
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When was the last time the MAF was cleaned?

John
1996 TBird LX 4.6
2001 Sable Wagon 3.0 Duratec
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-18-2010, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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I checked my O2s and MAF with my xCal2. Checked my TPS and coils with a DVOM. I cleaned my MAF the day the problem started and swapped in my spar MAF sensor to make sure that one was not bad. I do not have any problems with idle just a small misfire every now and then. You could hear it stumble a bit out the exhaust but it picks right back up with no problems. That is why I am replacing my plugs and wires tomorrow. The car pulls 22 in of vacuum at idle and only drops to about 20 at 2000 rpm. I looked around the internet last night and found that when your plugs turn red that is a sign of bad additives in your gas so tomorrow I will take a sample of the gas that is in my tank to see what it looks like. I only have one brand of gas that has 93 octane around me so I have to go to BP stations to fill my tank. I could start buying some race fuel but at $6 a gal that would be to much running in my DD. I dont know if because of this oil spill that there gas has gone down in quality but till I started to have this problem that is the only gas that has been i my tank. All the other stations around me only go up to 91 octane and have 10% ethanol in it. If you would like me to I could take some pictures of what my plugs and O2s look like but I do not know how to post pictures on the forums yet. If you have any ideas that may help point me to the problem please post I need to get my car back on the road and ready to autocrosse again.

95 Thunderbird LX
Drive train Mods:
full PI swap (03 grand marquis engine), 2000 Mustang GT 4R70W, C & L intake elbow, 73mm TB, 73mm MAF housing, CAI, flowmaster exhaust, 3.73 w/ trac lock and upgraded clutches, BOC tune.
Interior Mods:
SC seats

2008 Mazdaspeed 3
Drive train Mods:
Mazdaspeed cold air intake, TWM short throw shifter, motor mounts, and muffler delete
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-19-2010, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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Well I found out that my MAF may have been sending out a a signal to the computer but it was a bad one. I put in my other MAF sensor again and the car now runs better then it did but this MAF has a point at about 2000 RPMs where it drops off then goes right back up when I data log it. So I will be buying a new MAF sensor on my next pay check. I have not had any time to do a full test drive to make sure it is cleared up but I am able to take it up to red line without it misfiring. I still dont know how my plugs and O2s turned red if my car was misfiring then they should have turned a different color. Thanks for making me go back and recheck my MAF sensor with a DVOM instead of the xCal2.

95 Thunderbird LX
Drive train Mods:
full PI swap (03 grand marquis engine), 2000 Mustang GT 4R70W, C & L intake elbow, 73mm TB, 73mm MAF housing, CAI, flowmaster exhaust, 3.73 w/ trac lock and upgraded clutches, BOC tune.
Interior Mods:
SC seats

2008 Mazdaspeed 3
Drive train Mods:
Mazdaspeed cold air intake, TWM short throw shifter, motor mounts, and muffler delete
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-19-2010, 12:15 PM
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you should use a production ford maf meter to alleviate issues
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-20-2010, 05:14 AM
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are you getting any codes? if there is a computer tune installed, put it back to stock and see what happens - and if any new / different codes show up

2015 Mustang GT Premium / Manual / 3.55 / Recaro
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-20-2010, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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for now I can drive the car so I will be getting a new MAF from Ford on monday. Got to love working at a dealership.

95 Thunderbird LX
Drive train Mods:
full PI swap (03 grand marquis engine), 2000 Mustang GT 4R70W, C & L intake elbow, 73mm TB, 73mm MAF housing, CAI, flowmaster exhaust, 3.73 w/ trac lock and upgraded clutches, BOC tune.
Interior Mods:
SC seats

2008 Mazdaspeed 3
Drive train Mods:
Mazdaspeed cold air intake, TWM short throw shifter, motor mounts, and muffler delete
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-20-2010, 03:16 PM
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lol your lucky then!!
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-21-2010, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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well I got the new MAF and so far all of my problems are gone but with all of the mods that I have on the car I still cant get it to do a burn out from a stop. The last time my car has been able to burn the tires off the line was when I had a tune on my stock engine and trans but the shift pressures where as high as they could go by the tune. So I thank that problem my have something to do with the transmission not the engine. But I do not care about that because I am getting the parts to gather to put a manual trans in the car so that I could autocross with out worrying about the trans getting to hot.

thanks

Autoxbird

95 Thunderbird LX
Drive train Mods:
full PI swap (03 grand marquis engine), 2000 Mustang GT 4R70W, C & L intake elbow, 73mm TB, 73mm MAF housing, CAI, flowmaster exhaust, 3.73 w/ trac lock and upgraded clutches, BOC tune.
Interior Mods:
SC seats

2008 Mazdaspeed 3
Drive train Mods:
Mazdaspeed cold air intake, TWM short throw shifter, motor mounts, and muffler delete
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-21-2010, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by autoxbird View Post
well I got the new MAF and so far all of my problems are gone but with all of the mods that I have on the car I still cant get it to do a burn out from a stop. The last time my car has been able to burn the tires off the line was when I had a tune on my stock engine and trans but the shift pressures where as high as they could go by the tune. So I thank that problem my have something to do with the transmission not the engine. But I do not care about that because I am getting the parts to gather to put a manual trans in the car so that I could autocross with out worrying about the trans getting to hot.

thanks

Autoxbird
You stated you have a tune, are you putting 93 octane fuel in it all the time?
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-22-2010, 02:44 AM
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the redness may be caused if you are using any lead additives, or other stuff of that nature, like octane booster and such. guy i used to know would add all that stuff in to his fuel cell on race day, than gripe all week about having a red tint to the plugs cause he also used nitrous. I told him to switch to race gas and gave him a tech article on the discolored plugs and it said right in the article that fuel system additives could and would cause discoloration. go ahead and change the plugs out, grab some diamondfire's or splitfire plugs and see if that helps also.
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