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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-18-2013, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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idling issues

I replaced the spark plugs, cleaned the maf, replaced the fuel pressure regulator, oil change, new battery, and cleaned air intake. I can drive the car for about 15 min before it won't idle anymore. once i let it sit for a while it will run fine for about another 15 min. when it won't idle it starts to sound like a ups truck every time you give it gas.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-18-2013, 07:00 PM
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when you replaced the fuel pressure regulator, did you replace the vacuum line on it? Those lines are likely very brittle and can easily break after so many years and so much engine heat.

Exactly how did you clean the "air intake"? That is a very general statement that can mean anything. Did you wash the intake tube with soap and water? Did you spray some kind of cleaner into the throttle body. Be specific.

How do you know you replaced the spark plug wires in the proper location/order?

What other plugs did you move/disconnect while working on your car?
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-18-2013, 07:29 PM
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Could it be the IAC? It's really easy to replace if it is.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-18-2013, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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I just dismantled the manifold and cleaned it with part cleaner. I replaced the spark plugs one at a time, no wires or coil pack yet. the fuel pressure regulator hose seems like it could be a likely source. the iac is the idle air control valve right? when I cleaned the air intake i also cleaned the iac by soaking it in part cleaner.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-18-2013, 08:36 PM
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you removed the entire intake manifold?? WHY?? did you reuse the intake manifold-to-head gaskets?

Depending on what kind of cleaner you soaked the IAC in, you could have damaged it.

Anything else you're not being up front about before this goes any further???
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-18-2013, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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i did not remove the manifold just cleaned it in place as good as possible. i soaked the iac in part cleaner.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-18-2013, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eddiecurbside View Post
i did not remove the manifold just cleaned it in place as good as possible. i soaked the iac in part cleaner.
ok just making sure, because when you say things like "I just dismantled the manifold...", and then you say "i did not remove the manifold...", we're not sure what to believe...

I say,

check the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. Lets not call this "hose", since "hose" can mean anything. This is a technical forum, so lets be as precise as possible. If it is broken/cracked/compromised in any way, the fuel pressure regulator will not function as intended.

Unless you have another IAC to check on your car, or another car to check your IAC on, there's a 50% chance you damaged the IAC. May need to replace it. No way to test it properly unless you have access to a PWM power supply. If you want to eliminate this as a possible culprit, buy a new one or a known-working used one.

Exactly how did you clean the maf? Did you unplug it? Did you remove it from the housing? Exactly what did you do. Retrace your steps. Possibly you damaged it somehow. Did you soak it in parts cleaner too???

How exactly did you clean the manifold in place? exactly what did you do? Were the spark plug wells uncovered when you did this??

Basically, it can be anything you touched if you weren't careful. Did you gap the plugs? If so, what gap did you set the plugs to? How did you remove the plug wires from the engine?
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-18-2013, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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I dismantled there intake manifold to the point where I could spray some carb cleaner down inside. the maf was cleaned using a q-tip and Windex, I removed the two screws holding the sensor down and cleaned off the wires inside very carefully. I was told by the guy at o'reilly's that they were pregapped. I did the plugs one at a time using a pair of spark plug boot pliers.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-18-2013, 11:09 PM
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Sorry but I don't think you know what the intake manifold is. Do a search on Google images for "ford 4.6 intake manifold" and look at the majority of the pictures. To dismantle the intake manifold would require you to remove everything from the intake manifold, including removing it from the engine----somehow I get the gut feeling you did not do that.

I think you are simply trying to say that you took off the intake tube, perhaps? That's what I think, at least. If I'm wrong, please take some quick pics to show us what you took off.

First step.

Individually remove the spark plug wires, one at a time, and check the gap on the plugs. You should have done this in the first place to avoid having to do it now to diagnose a problem.

BEFORE you remove the plug from the head, look in the well and make sure there is no debris in there, especially any liquid of any kind (coolant, oil, cleaners, etc). If there is, do not remove the plug before cleaning out the crud!! The last thing you need is crud stuck on your rings scratching your cylinder walls---then you'll be in for a engine rebuild/replace, something you probably don't want right now.

So do this first, then go over every single inch on the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator and check it to see if it is not damamged in any way.

After you do these two things, check any and all connections that you may have removed.

Then report back and tell us exactly what you did since this latest post.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-19-2013, 01:28 PM
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I say it's the IAC when it starts Idleing real funny unplug the IAC for a few seconds then plug it back in. if that stops it from acting weird then u might want to replace it. U could always try to clean it again but just clean the inside were the spring is.

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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-19-2013, 01:49 PM
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It could very well be, but I always suggest the "cheapest" things first, being that it's just a matter of double-checking things for free before going out and spending $50 on an IAC.
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-19-2013, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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I indeed found that the fuel pressure regulator(fpr) did have a broken vacuum line, that i patched up with a piece of tubing. I removed the thing that says 4.6 and sprayed part cleaner inside of the intake. I know its not the iac because when it was idling I unplugged it and the car died instantly.
http://www.wikihow.com/Check-an-Idle-Air-Control-Valve
here is a link to where I learned to check the iac.
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-19-2013, 07:56 PM
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Just FYI, you removed the upper intake elbow, or upper plenum as it's sometimes called.

so now that you fixed that vacuum leak, how is it idling? Did it cure the issues?
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-19-2013, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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its fine if parked but if driven for more than 15 min it will start to sound like a ups truck again. but during these 15 min it drives incredibly well, like its a new car almost.
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-19-2013, 09:59 PM
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well then I suggest you go through my suggestions as to things to check first and foremost.
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-20-2013, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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I think the car is going into limp mode.
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-20-2013, 02:17 PM
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possibly. was it doing this before you started messing with it? have you scanned it for codes? what else have you checked since your last post?
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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-21-2013, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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I filled up all of the fluids and found steam coming from the water pump. I am currently removing the water pump but I can't get the pulley off. I already have the four pulley screws removed.
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-21-2013, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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I got the pulley off but now the pump itself is stuck. any suggestions besides a bfh?
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-21-2013, 03:13 PM
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corrosion has it stuck in place. use a wooden 2x2 or similar to drive it tangent to the cavity, as if trying to make it rotate in place. This will free it up somewhat. Lots of gentle smacks, then slowly try to pry it out with a large flat blade screwdriver. Careful not to pry too hard because you can easily break off the ears where the mounting bolts go. If it doesn't want to come out, you need to keep smacking it tangentially.
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post #21 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-21-2013, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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i managed to get the pump out w a big hammer and i already finished installing the new one.
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post #22 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-21-2013, 06:15 PM
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I hope you installed the "better" water pump with the closed vane on the impellers...
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