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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-26-2013, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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E-Fan problem

My engine always runs very cool, like 1/4 on the gauge - (I did the rear freeze plug coolant mod) Today it was getting warm at idle on me. I realized it when I took off from a stop and saw the check gauges red light come on. I was going to pull over but as soon as I drove from the light the needle went down to over half. The red light was on for maybe 15 seconds. My coolant overflow resevoir was empty when I got home and it had cooled down, I can see where it boiled over.

Was going to order water pump/thermostat/serp belt, but I thought to turn on the A/C and make sure the fan turns on. It does not. My FSM is packed away and I have no idea where it is. Can somebody help me diagnose if its the fan itself, or the relay? And where is the relay located anyhow?

Thanks a lot for any help you can give. I sure hope I didn't hurt my PI engine : /

All Glory to God!

RIP JOHNNY LANGTON

96 LX PI/Jspec Pearl White. She enjoys eating ricers for breakfast
-MODS-
2002 PI 4.6L - Jspec Trans built by Darrin - 04 Marauder converter - Hayden 679 Trans cooler - Engine cooling modification - SCT Xcal2, tuned by Lonnie - 02 GT MAF and 99 GT Intake tube - removed silencer - 255 lph HP fuel pump - Aluminum Driveshaft - 3.73 TL - 245/60/15 BFGoodrich Radial T/A's - PBR front brakes - SCP Rear torsional load brace - SCP Solid rubber motor, transmission mounts - Rear Strut Tower brace and Diff cover brace by Rod
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-26-2013, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 96_LX View Post
My engine always runs very cool, like 1/4 on the gauge - (I did the rear freeze plug coolant mod) Today it was getting warm at idle on me. I realized it when I took off from a stop and saw the check gauges red light come on. I was going to pull over but as soon as I drove from the light the needle went down to over half. The red light was on for maybe 15 seconds. My coolant overflow resevoir was empty when I got home and it had cooled down, I can see where it boiled over.

Was going to order water pump/thermostat/serp belt, but I thought to turn on the A/C and make sure the fan turns on. It does not. My FSM is packed away and I have no idea where it is. Can somebody help me diagnose if its the fan itself, or the relay? And where is the relay located anyhow?

Thanks a lot for any help you can give. I sure hope I didn't hurt my PI engine : /
Can you jump it straight to battery power to see if it runs that way?
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-26-2013, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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I should have thought of that. What kind of wire should I use to jump them, I think I only have small wire like 22 gauge, then up to jumper cables?

All Glory to God!

RIP JOHNNY LANGTON

96 LX PI/Jspec Pearl White. She enjoys eating ricers for breakfast
-MODS-
2002 PI 4.6L - Jspec Trans built by Darrin - 04 Marauder converter - Hayden 679 Trans cooler - Engine cooling modification - SCT Xcal2, tuned by Lonnie - 02 GT MAF and 99 GT Intake tube - removed silencer - 255 lph HP fuel pump - Aluminum Driveshaft - 3.73 TL - 245/60/15 BFGoodrich Radial T/A's - PBR front brakes - SCP Rear torsional load brace - SCP Solid rubber motor, transmission mounts - Rear Strut Tower brace and Diff cover brace by Rod
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-26-2013, 08:20 PM
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I should have thought of that. What kind of wire should I use to jump them, I think I only have small wire like 22 gauge, then up to jumper cables?
That should work, its only 12v
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-26-2013, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Shumard View Post
That should work, its only 12v
yea but the amperage consumption at start up is greater than what it consumes when it's already running. 50A through 22gauge wires is not a good idea---they might literally melt on you. BTW, the relay for the electric fan is inside the IRCM.

You might as well take it to a mechanic if you don't have the tools to diagnose electrical problems.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-26-2013, 08:32 PM
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yea but the amperage consumption at start up is greater than what it consumes when it's already running. 50A through 22gauge wires is not a good idea---they might literally melt on you.
I didn't think of the amps, thanks GM
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-26-2013, 08:37 PM
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That should work, its only 12v
sorry for the bad advise, I forgot about amp draw
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-26-2013, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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holy geez. The left most pin on the connector is melted. Whatsupwitthat? Would that mean a fuse is bad? Or maybe the motor is just burnt which caused the excessive draw. Too much current obviously went through that connector. And yeah it looks like I gotta take it to the mechanic : /


But I don't have that kind of money for the next year. I found Rockauto has new connectors. Should I order a fan and connector, or is there maybe something else going on too?

All Glory to God!

RIP JOHNNY LANGTON

96 LX PI/Jspec Pearl White. She enjoys eating ricers for breakfast
-MODS-
2002 PI 4.6L - Jspec Trans built by Darrin - 04 Marauder converter - Hayden 679 Trans cooler - Engine cooling modification - SCT Xcal2, tuned by Lonnie - 02 GT MAF and 99 GT Intake tube - removed silencer - 255 lph HP fuel pump - Aluminum Driveshaft - 3.73 TL - 245/60/15 BFGoodrich Radial T/A's - PBR front brakes - SCP Rear torsional load brace - SCP Solid rubber motor, transmission mounts - Rear Strut Tower brace and Diff cover brace by Rod

Last edited by 96_LX; 06-26-2013 at 08:47 PM.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-26-2013, 08:52 PM
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Bad/corroded grounds can cause excessive current draw. It is possible the fan motor is still ok. But unless you check properly, by bypassing the melted connector with proper large gauge wires fused from the battery, there's no way for you to know. Before you start ordering things, you need to decide if you're actually going to tackle this yourself 100%, or are you leaning towards taking it to a mechanic?
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-26-2013, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 96_LX View Post
holy geez. The left most pin on the connector is melted. Whatsupwitthat? Would that mean a fuse is bad? Or maybe the motor is just burnt which caused the excessive draw. Too much current obviously went through that connector. And yeah it looks like I gotta take it to the mechanic : /


But I don't have that kind of money for the next year. I found Rockauto has new connectors. Should I order a fan and connector, or is there maybe something else going on too?
Man when I first read that, I thought it was because of me, but I realized the wire would melt not the connector, I'll let someone else with more knowledge on electrical to answer you, good luck, and again sorry for bad advise, I usually don't answer unless I'm 100% sure
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-26-2013, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Mike, don't worry man I appreciate your input. I do have a basic knowledge of electronics and was actually thinking about cutting the clamps off my smallest jumper cables but thought about a fuse setup before I did. I did not, however, think about a ground issue being the cause, thanks GM. I'm afraid I will have to take it to a mechanic. As much as I'd like to, and NEED to fix this cheap as possible, I don't want to have to worry about having problems with this again. I think I will drive with it unplugged to my tried and true mechanic and just take care of it LOL.

All Glory to God!

RIP JOHNNY LANGTON

96 LX PI/Jspec Pearl White. She enjoys eating ricers for breakfast
-MODS-
2002 PI 4.6L - Jspec Trans built by Darrin - 04 Marauder converter - Hayden 679 Trans cooler - Engine cooling modification - SCT Xcal2, tuned by Lonnie - 02 GT MAF and 99 GT Intake tube - removed silencer - 255 lph HP fuel pump - Aluminum Driveshaft - 3.73 TL - 245/60/15 BFGoodrich Radial T/A's - PBR front brakes - SCP Rear torsional load brace - SCP Solid rubber motor, transmission mounts - Rear Strut Tower brace and Diff cover brace by Rod

Last edited by 96_LX; 06-26-2013 at 10:53 PM.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-27-2013, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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Just an update, I drove my car into the shop today and my motor seemed to run, feel and sound just like normal! Very relieved about that. I will post back with what they figure out.

Thanks guys!

All Glory to God!

RIP JOHNNY LANGTON

96 LX PI/Jspec Pearl White. She enjoys eating ricers for breakfast
-MODS-
2002 PI 4.6L - Jspec Trans built by Darrin - 04 Marauder converter - Hayden 679 Trans cooler - Engine cooling modification - SCT Xcal2, tuned by Lonnie - 02 GT MAF and 99 GT Intake tube - removed silencer - 255 lph HP fuel pump - Aluminum Driveshaft - 3.73 TL - 245/60/15 BFGoodrich Radial T/A's - PBR front brakes - SCP Rear torsional load brace - SCP Solid rubber motor, transmission mounts - Rear Strut Tower brace and Diff cover brace by Rod
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-15-2013, 09:00 AM
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Well, what did they find out??? LOL

97 Ford T-Bird, Roaming north florida. Custom Paint,
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engine painted,
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