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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-27-2014, 06:27 AM Thread Starter
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recommended rebuild kit...

So I finally have a motor. It's a 97 npi. It most definitely needs a rebuild. I'll probably put pi heads instead of trick flow for 2 reasons. Price and I don't plan on going over 400 hp ever. Which brings me to the question. Should I go forged or stock rebuild? I may boost it down the road but it will always be a daily driver and I'll limey never go over 400 hp. More realistically somewhere in the mid to high 3's is where I'll end up. I'm not sure of the reliability of these motors at that hp level. I think I read they are good to 500 or so. No spray will ever go on this engine either by the way. So if I don't need to go forged what is some good reliable rebuild kits?
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-27-2014, 08:18 AM
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I dunno man, the potential of the Trick Flow heads are hard to beat. Daily driving with them are easy. Not only that, but their design is an improvement over the PI heads. How many miles are on the shortblock? You may not even have to do a rebuild, just a head swap.

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-27-2014, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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I dunno man, the potential of the Trick Flow heads are hard to beat. Daily driving with them are easy. Not only that, but their design is an improvement over the PI heads. How many miles are on the shortblock? You may not even have to do a rebuild, just a head swap.
No clue. But the exterior looks pretty rough and oily. So I'd say a lot. What Are trick flows going for now a days anyway?
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-27-2014, 09:24 AM
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Looks like a base price is about $1,100 at Summit.

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-27-2014, 09:28 AM
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$2200 for the pair.

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-27-2014, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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Cool. Didn't know summit sold them. That's with no cams though. Still a bit pricey. I know it's worth it but still. But either set of heads I choose to go with, I should still be OK with a stock bottom end correct?
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-27-2014, 10:49 AM
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If you're staying N/A, keep a max. RPM of 6500 and you'll be fine. If you go F/I, I'd look into better internals.

-Brandon
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-27-2014, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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If you're staying N/A, keep a max. RPM of 6500 and you'll be fine. If you go F/I, I'd look into better internals.
Even if the power level stays under 400? Hmmm. I was hoping to keep the engine build (minus the blower) under $3000. I don't want to build it twice though so I guess I'll heed the t-bird vet's warning. Thanks.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-27-2014, 11:03 AM
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The weak powdered rods and hypereutectic pistons won't take too kindly to it. Yeah, you could do it, but longevity becomes a serious question. Especially with a PI head on an NPI bottom end, which ups the compression.

Don't under-build, over-build. Less chance something will go wrong later. If your goal is 400 RWHP, build the car to withstand 500 RWHP.

-Brandon
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-27-2014, 11:51 AM
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Put the heads on any 2 valve engine.
Don't overrev, over 6000 rpm.

You WILL NOT be disappointed.

The best single modification that can be made to a 2V modular.

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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-27-2014, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by A.Baker View Post
Cool. Didn't know summit sold them. That's with no cams though. Still a bit pricey. I know it's worth it but still. But either set of heads I choose to go with, I should still be OK with a stock bottom end correct?
Just get yourself a set of stock PI cams. They can be had for cheap, like $50 cheap. Heck, some people practically give them away. Then you too can have 315 BHP.

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Originally Posted by A.Baker View Post
No clue. But the exterior looks pretty rough and oily. So I'd say a lot. What Are trick flows going for now a days anyway?
Looks can be quite deceiving. I've seen some rough looking 60,000 mile motors. Mine has 167,xxx miles right now, you'd never know it unless I told you. I had the headswap done about 5,000 miles ago.

Michael M. ASE P2 Automobile Parts Specialist.

1996 Thunderbird LX. Gone, but not forgotten Oct 1995-March 24 2016 Trick Flow headded, E85 guzzling beast.

1985 Mustang GT. modified stock Holley 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake manifold, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 5 speed, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

1998 Mustang GT premium. Trans Go shift kit, Bassani catted x-pipe, PI heads, cams, intake swap, Accufab elbow, SCT Xcal 4 tune, Eibach Pro-kit, Maximum Motorsports Caster/camber plates, fat tires. Banging audio system.

Last edited by Mgino96tbird46; 01-27-2014 at 11:31 PM.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-28-2014, 07:28 AM
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I'm a direct with trickflow I can save u some

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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-28-2014, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
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I'm a direct with trickflow I can save u some

Robert
That would be awesome. But I don't know when I'll be able to afford them. So it might be 6 month or it may be 2. Depends on how my schooling and stuff goes
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-28-2014, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
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What would the compression ratio be with trickflow heads on an npi block? The 38 cc would be like 11 or so right? What about the 44's? I may need to get different piston dishes. However, this engine will need to run pretty good n/a until I can afford a blower.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-28-2014, 02:53 PM
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http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=133414

Everything you need.

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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-28-2014, 08:05 PM
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Mine is around 11.2:1. Premium fuel is mandatory. If you go with 44's, you can possibly still run regular, if you had to. 10.2:1 is doable on regular, but premium is preferred. May as well have all of your power on tap! I went with the 38's because I wanted that extra edge and don't mind running premium fuel all the time. If I want all out, balls to the walls, I fill up with E85 and switch the tune.

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1985 Mustang GT. modified stock Holley 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake manifold, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 5 speed, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-28-2014, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
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Mine is around 11.2:1. Premium fuel is mandatory. If you go with 44's, you can possibly still run regular, if you had to. 10.2:1 is doable on regular, but premium is preferred. May as well have all of your power on tap! I went with the 38's because I wanted that extra edge and don't mind running premium fuel all the time. If I want all out, balls to the walls, I fill up with E85 and switch the tune.
Tuning is where the real issue will be in the end. Mainly because I know absolutely nothing about it and few people around here do.
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-29-2014, 06:00 AM
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Tuning is where the real issue will be in the end. Mainly because I know absolutely nothing about it and few people around here do.
I'd say that there are quite a few of us here that know a thing or two about tuning.

Regardless of whether you plan to tune it yourself or have someone else do the work, be sure to budget for it. Tuning is one area that you absolutely don't want to cut corners.

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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-29-2014, 06:42 AM
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As long as you've got the cash, there is someone to tune the car. Even if you have to go mail-order and have someone like Don LaSota or Dave Dalke tune the car for you.

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