Car won't start-no fuel at rail... - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-28-2014, 12:14 AM Thread Starter
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Car won't start-no fuel at rail...

About three weeks ago, my car got where it would turn over for a few seconds before it fired. Once it cranked it would run fine. I guessed it was the fuel pressure regulator. Last week, I replaced the fuel filter under the passenger side framerail on general principle. It ran fine for a week, but yesterday it quit starting at all on me. The distinctive hum the fuel pump makes when you first turn the key on was gone, so I figured the pump had died.

Today I replaced the fuel pump. Everything that could go wrong with that project did, but we got the tank out, pulled the old pump, installed the new, and managed to get the car more or less back together.

I think I'd rather eat my young than have to drop a fuel tank on an MN12 again.

But the freaking car still won't start! I dribbled a little bit of gasoline into the intake tube right behind the MAF, and it started for a couple of seconds, then died, so I know it has spark & compression. I can hear the new pump when I turn the key, but there's no fuel getting to the fuel rail. I checked the little schrader valve, and it hissed for like a quarter of a second, but it was all air, no fuel.

Does anybody have any idea what to check next? My friend wants to pull the hose leading into the filter and see if the pump is squirting it that far.

One other minor detail...there was some sort of little orange rubber boot on the fuel return line at the bottom of the sending unit that looked like it was designed to let fuel out the return line but not get sucked back in. This boot was torn to pieces. The guy at the parts store (who looked like he finally kicked his crack habit) said it would run fine without that boot. It's not running. How important is that little widget?

Last edited by rea98d; 04-28-2014 at 07:03 AM.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-28-2014, 01:37 AM
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Yeah, I think that would be my next move. Check fuel pressure at frame filter.

I'm not certain, but I think that widget is in case of roll overs.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-28-2014, 08:45 AM
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Stupid question: Have you checked the inertial cutoff switch in the trunk yet?
That kills power to the fuel pump.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-28-2014, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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I checked the cutoff in the trunk, as well as the fuses under the hood. Both looked good. I can hear the new pump whirring for a couple of seconds when I put the key in & turn it to the "on" position, so the pump is getting power, and running properly. It's just a question of why the fuel isn't getting from the pump to the rail.

I'm thinking I'll hook my fuel pressure tester up to the rail, and hold down the button used to bleed off pressure while a friend cranks the car. Maybe there's too much air in the fuel rails and it's just not pushing it out the injectors fast enough.

Part of the problem is I was visiting my grandma who lives 50 miles away when it died, and the car is stuck at her house. It'll probably be after 5 tomorrow before I have time to drive back over there and look at it again.

This old T-Bird has seriously got me contemplating making payments on a newer car again. This is the third time since I got the car in December I've had to fix something to keep it in driveable condition. I like working on cars, but this one is starting to test my patience!
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-28-2014, 05:02 PM
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I managed to hit the key on with the fuel line disconnected at the fuel rail last weekend; the "prime" hit on the fuel pump is about a half pint on a working system, lol.

It comes out like gangbusters, too. 255lph, lol.

I went to roll up the windows, and forgot the rail was loose.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-28-2014, 06:59 PM
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I had a similar problem on my 97 beater. I replaced the fuel pump bc it had 200k on it and thought it was the problem. Cranked it over and still no pressure at the filter or rail. I spent the next week dropping the gas tank multiple times redoing everything. The culprit in my situation was the ccrm. I went to a pick and pull and got one from another 97 4.6, plugged it in and fuel pump was making noise again. It turned right over and fired up after. I hope yours is something that simple. Good luck.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-28-2014, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks.

Now, for the dumb question of the day. What's a CCRM?
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-28-2014, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rea98d View Post
Thanks.

Now, for the dumb question of the day. What's a CCRM?
CCRM stands for Constant Control Relay Module.

Older ones used a IRCM - Integrated Relay Control Module.

It's that funky box Ford used instead of separate relays for some of the stuff that gets relayed.

Do a search for how DirtyD0g rebuilt his.

Or just grab one out of the boneyard. Be SURE that you can swap it for another one if you get a defective one ...

RwP

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-28-2014, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rea98d
I can hear the new pump whirring for a couple of seconds when I put the key in & turn it to the "on" position, so the pump is getting power, and running properly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphP
CCRM stands for Constant Control Relay Module.
Would a bad CCRM still cause the problem if the pump was pumping the prime? Could the module still run the prime, but not run the pump at other times?

Thanks in advance for any answers.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-29-2014, 09:04 AM
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You said the pump was priming, But no fuel at the rail. The easiest thing would be to disconnect the fuel line at the filter, get a bucket for the fuel line and turn the key to the on position. If no fuel comes out than its either a problem with the pump or a bad ccrm. The ccrm is located behind the passenger headlight. It's a little black box. I paid 5 bucks for one at a you pull it yard and had a 30 day warranty. This is just coming from my experience with a similar issue.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-29-2014, 10:18 AM
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As others have said, just disconnect the fuel filter and see if fuel comes out.

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-29-2014, 06:30 PM
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what sort of fuel filter did you buy, wix or some cheepo store-brand? i've seen frams bad right out of the box where they wont flow fuel through them at all.

but like everyone else is saying, pull the line at the filter, then reconnect and pull the line after the filter and try it again. you may have picked yourself up a bad fuel filter.

also if fuel isn't flowing through the pump it wont keep running for long, so you may want to find the problem before you try too many more key-on's. plugged fuel filters are one of the biggest causes of failed fuel pumps. usually from lack of service for 100k+, but yeah, poor filter manufacturing will take you down the same route in the end.

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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-29-2014, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I actually had 150 miles on the filter before the pump finally packed it in. I honestly don't remember the brand. Probably a no name.

Anyway, I had time today to go back to my grandma's house and work on it a little more. I pulled the cap off the schrader valve on the fuel rail and pushed the little pin in the middle down. Then I turn the key on so the pump would prime. I did this enough times I finally got a little geyser of fuel out of it, and she finally started. Sunday night when I was cranky and tired and sore, I ended up quitting 5 minutes before the finish line.

Molly is up and running again, and visions of trading her in for an S197 Mustang are no longer dancing in my head.
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