4.6L valley hole plug - part #'s, codes, & pics - TCCoA Forums
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 06-23-2014, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 408
4.6L valley hole plug - part #'s, codes, & pics

I was initially going to put this in the exploded view thread, but it's rather part specific and diverges from that thread's primary concern. It could go in the valley pic thread, but it involves part replacement info, not merely images of a valley. If mods feel the need to move it, so be it.

After stupidly cracking off an upper corner of my plug/cover, I later found that it was cracked in at least one other place, so I decided to forget any attempt at repair and removed the whole thing.
If one is careful, it can be broken apart in 5-6 pieces and extracted w/o having bits fall down, because the block actually goes back under it, catching pieces. I didn't realize this at the time, so I was super careful to hold onto all pieces as I dismembered it.

Lesson learned (again). Plastic embrittlement in the engine/bay = don't touch anything you aren't prepared to replace. Don't even look at it wrong. Don't even think about looking at it or it might crack. I still have to replace that TPS harness connector that shattered into a dozen pieces upon [non-aggressive] removal. pfft!

Ford calls this a converter inspection hole cover. Since it takes some maneuvering to get one's finger up and over the metal tab back there, it seems the only way to inspect the converter would be via fiber optic camera probe.

Welp, I'm not going to leave that gaping hole back there, so...

Time for a parts guru to chime in, as there are multiple part numbers for this cover. I need to be sure I'm ordering the correct one. It's still available, assuming I inquired using the correct part number, but the nearest stocking dealer is over a hundred miles from me. Nearest non-stocking dealer that won't charge me freight to order it is far enough away that 2 round trips would cost more in gas than inflated shipping from an online source. bah!
I'm not going to bother with junked cars, for obvious reasons.

The part numbers I've gleaned thus far are:
F3AZ-6C070-AA
F65Z-6C070-AB

Unless I'm mistaken, Ford code translates to:
F = 90's, 3 = '93, 6 = '96, A = full sized Ford (Crown Vic?), Z = Ford service part, 6C070 = base part number, AA = first release, AB = first revision (supposedly revision parts will fit first release holes, but not vice-versa; revised lip must be larger for a larger revised hole? )

WTH does the "5" in the second part number denote? I couldn't find that on any Ford decoder online -- all of them list LETTERS in that spot, no numbers.

The Ford parts catalog shows 6C070 as two different parts on the 4.6L block with different prices.
Check this out and tell me it looks like the rear valley plug!
So, ordering any 6C070, even the same year, isn't necessarily going to get me the part I need. Gotta love it!

It gets better.
They list both part numbers with descriptions on this site, BUT the AZ part is listed as "rear valley hole", while the 5Z part is listed as "converter inspection hole", with different prices.

Sound good, right? I should order the AZ, of course! mmkay, now check this out:

Scroll down this page and see the highlighted part in the diagram is the correct part, but the part number listed is the 5Z, which is apparently the converter inspection hole plug, which is different than the rear valley hole plug.

Clearly, with different numbers having different prices, and the image of the catalog diagram being completely different and in a different location than the valley, there ARE two different parts with the number 6C070.
So, DOES the 5Z fit my AZ hole or not? Do I even HAVE an AZ hole?? <--- don't even go there (literally or figuratively!)

Pics for those who are curious what my AZ hole looks like and haven't seen it up close and personal (tried typing that with a straight face, but couldn't do it):





A higher angle shot, showing how the block continues back a ways, making it somewhat safe to break up the plug for retrieval:


Now I just need to find the right plug for my AZ hole and I'll feel much better. (sorry, I couldn't help it)
Torque is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 06-23-2014, 05:09 PM
Moderator &amp;amp; Teksid Whore
Super Moderator
 
guitar maestro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Laredo, Texas
Age: 39
Posts: 11,961
Send a message via MSN to guitar maestro Send a message via Yahoo to guitar maestro
guitar maestro is offline  
Old 06-23-2014, 05:16 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

Moderator
 
Grog6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Harriman, TN
Age: 56
Posts: 9,978
Garage
The original plug is very loose fitting; it did not hold the water when I blew the intake crossover on Lazarus' original manifold.

I'd leave it open; water poured thru there will drop thru the cover plate at the bottom.
It does not seal there, even tho there's another plug at the bottom.

I'd say F-it. You don't want water to stand there if it rains.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.


"War Is Peace. Freedom Is Slavery. Ignorance Is Strength." - George Orwell.
Truth Isn't Truth. - Rudy Giuliani, 2018 Award winner, “Most Outrageous Diversion” by MSNBC for this quote
Grog6 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 06-23-2014, 05:17 PM
Humble MN12 Genius
Super Moderator
 
XR7-4.6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Roselle IL
Posts: 16,539
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to XR7-4.6
I think F65Z is a typo, I bet it's F6SZ which would be Thunderbird


You really don't need that cover.

-Matt
XR7-4.6 is offline  
Old 06-23-2014, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 408
yabbut.. isn't it supposed to prevent dirt/debris from getting into the tranny housing as well? There were leaves in the valley upon manifold removal and I don't want to risk same finding its way into any tranny components.

Which begs the question: Where does the coolant go? If it can't get into tranny parts, then dirt shouldn't be able to, either. I'm not sure why they'd even bother with the plug in the first place then unless the idea was to prevent leaves, etc. from becoming tightly compacted in the hole and THAT preventing coolant drainage, as opposed to there being an actual risk of anything getting into the tranny and causing damage.
Or is the idea that fluid gets spun off the flywheel/tranny, essentially drying it off quickly, whereas solid debris hangs around and causes damage?

Btw, it is kind of a breather of sorts, after all. There's a definite draft coming from that hole after removing the plug. Where's that coming from if not the tranny?

The part numbering could be a typo, but it occurs across multiple sellers/sites, so I'm not too sure about that.

I'm not saying you guys are wrong. I just want to feel confident that I can go ahead and mount the new manifold, leaving the plug out w/o the slightest risk of later damage because of it.
Torque is offline  
Old 06-23-2014, 05:48 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Tucson AZ
Age: 49
Posts: 3,726
I grabbed a couple of those at the you pull it junk yard, and installed it when I did the intake on my 2000 Grand Marquis. It allows water (and coolant) to flow through the unsealed bell housing and leak out the inspection cover.

I also found quite a bit of non liquid bits in the valley of my car, and I am sure the small stones would have just been crushed and not cause any issues, but why wonder about it. I broke mine blindly trying to drag out some accumulated junk and a dropped bolt.

--
97 Mark VIII LSC/Silver/Gray leather
97 Cougar 4.6 Sport/White Opalescent Tricoat Metallic /Gray leather down but not out?
89 Cougar LS 3.8/Oxford White/Gray velour/HG need replaced AGAIN
00 Grand Marquis LS/Vibrant White/Gray velour
63 Falcon 302/black and rust/shed isn't moving
82 F-150/Oxford White/dumb VV carb doesn't pass emissions
Bangster is offline  
Old 06-23-2014, 07:29 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
Chris_Murder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 5,404
Send a message via AIM to Chris_Murder
My $0.02 your making a big deal about nothing. None of mine have those anymore with no issues. Gorilla or Duct tape would work just as well if your that freaked out about it. Or make a rubber one out of some tape as a mold and RTV. I'm willing to bet your vehicle is missing more important functioning items then that dust cover, like the skid plates that all mn12's initially came with for increase cooling that are long gone on < 90% of remaining mn12s. They do help but are impossible to find and truth be told the mn12s will live without them. Same story on that dust cover. This to me is a trivial as the factory battery terminal cable covers and the engine covers and air silencers that were on the fn10. Are you going to cover the spark plug wires in plastic conduit and route them under the alternator too? How about the factory fibermat battery sleeve are you going to install one of those? I mean really these are the kind of details that enthusiasts of these cars tend to accept as there are better ways around this and/or unimportant.

-1996 Pearl White Thunderbird 4.6 Sport 4v with many mods:
Current Best: 13.583 @ 103.74 10/2014.
227hp/241tq measured on calibrated mustang dyno, tested at full vehicle simulation with inertia enabled, no number skewing.
-2001 White Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.8 V10, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG KO2's, Bilstein 7100 Remote Reservoir Race Bypass Shocks, 6" Spring lift, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, FlowMaster Exhaust
Amber_Murder's Daily Driver.
-2005 White GMC Sierra 3500 6.6 Duramax, Dually, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG Commercial T/A's, Rancho RS9000XL Shocks, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, Banks Monster Exhaust
Chris_Murder's Daily Driver.

Last edited by Chris_Murder; 06-23-2014 at 07:38 PM.
Chris_Murder is offline  
Old 06-23-2014, 10:13 PM
Humble MN12 Genius
Super Moderator
 
XR7-4.6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Roselle IL
Posts: 16,539
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to XR7-4.6
Nothing's going to get into the transmission from that plug, the converter is completely sealed and the input seal at the trans is on the opposite side of the plug. Oh and it's a seal, a much more substantial one at that than the loose fitting plastic plug in the valley.


And again, Aluminum block 4.6s have a hole there as well with NO cover from the factory

-Matt
XR7-4.6 is offline  
Old 06-23-2014, 11:07 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Fayettenam, NC
Posts: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Nothing's going to get into the transmission from that plug, the converter is completely sealed and the input seal at the trans is on the opposite side of the plug. Oh and it's a seal, a much more substantial one at that than the loose fitting plastic plug in the valley.


And again, Aluminum block 4.6s have a hole there as well with NO cover from the factory
Nice to know, when i originally did my Pi Intake swap, i broke this stupid thing and i was like "Ehh, if it breaks that easily, guess i didnt need it "
Dr Skye is offline  
Old 06-24-2014, 04:29 AM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 408
Ok, the consensus is that I'm overreacting.
Fine. Left unexplained is why the Ford engineers put one there if it isn't important. Unreasonable orders came down from suits at HQ? To prevent litigation? So the engineers would sleep better at night? Bragging rights (yeah? Well, MY engine design has a valley plug and yours doesn't! So there! haaaa)?
It can't be seen with the manifold on, so I'm pretty sure it wasn't added for aesthetics.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_Murder View Post
Gorilla or Duct tape would work just as well if your that freaked out about it.
Even in tame dry environments duct tape's adhesive turns into dust in short order and at 98.6°F it turns into gooey mush (don't ask).
I've used various brands of this kind of tape on a lot of things over the years and learned to only use it for very temporary applications.

Anyway, the idea here is not to seal the hole, but to allow fluid to drain while not allowing solid debris to enter. It's molded plastic and evidently was designed to fit loosely enough to allow a slow drain.

Quote:
I'm willing to bet your vehicle is missing more important functioning items then that dust cover,
I guess it depends on how one defines "important functioning". I've had this car since new in '96 and can say that the only parts missing are:
  • TPS harness connector outer shell
  • plastic locking clip on one side of an ignition coil harness connector
  • plastic locking clip on the temp gauge harness connector
  • plastic locking clip on the a/c compressor harness connector
  • a few plastic harness anchors on doors (from window motor repair jobs)
  • evap solenoid harness/tube anchors
  • several upper bumper fascia fasteners
  • the valley plug (and of course the manifold for now)
With very few exceptions, the car is stock. I haven't even deleted the air silencer or fender-cowl insulators (sound deadening pads).

I installed a NOS mega fuse sliding cover not long ago after I broke a chunk off the original during an oil change; ordered 2 just in case it ever happened again.

The point is I do my best to keep the car whole, and thinking about this plug missing would bug me.

Quote:
Are you going to cover the spark plug wires in plastic conduit and route them under the alternator too?
Why not? Split loom tubing is cheap and I have some here already. And it only takes a few minutes to remove and reinstall the alt. I was also considering upgrading to a high output alt anyway; might be a good time to change plug wires. There may be a functional advantage to placing them above the alt that I'm not aware of, but the stock configuration has worked well for me since '96.

Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Nothing's going to get into the transmission from that plug
Can't crud potentially make its way into flexplate teeth and thereby grind in the starter/flexplate gear mesh? Ok, so maybe leaves won't pose a serious problem vs. steel (petioles, though? hmmm), and I don't anticipate river rocks getting into my valley anytime soon, but I did find a plastic cap in the valley that I didn't remember losing.

Quote:
And again, Aluminum block 4.6s have a hole there as well with NO cover from the factory
Do they have a different kind of anti-debris scheme in the bell housing which can't be seen from the valley? How large/small is the hole in the Al block?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Skye View Post
i broke this stupid thing and i was like "Ehh, if it breaks that easily, guess i didnt need it "
I was like, "Oh $#!+ I broke it! The engineers must have put it there for a good reason. "
Torque is offline  
Old 06-24-2014, 05:04 AM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
Chris_Murder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 5,404
Send a message via AIM to Chris_Murder
It's your car do what makes you happy, but now I have to know... do you have the factory ends on your battery cables with the factory cable covers? How about the fibermat battery sleeve blanket? Factory skid plate/air director? I'd love to see a picture of the skid plate if anyone still actually has one or better yet a part number if anyone knows it or has it. Does it eat you up at night having damaged locking clips on the harness or would it eat you up more if you replaced them because it wouldn't be factory? Are you one of those guys that likes factory overspray on classic cars?

-1996 Pearl White Thunderbird 4.6 Sport 4v with many mods:
Current Best: 13.583 @ 103.74 10/2014.
227hp/241tq measured on calibrated mustang dyno, tested at full vehicle simulation with inertia enabled, no number skewing.
-2001 White Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.8 V10, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG KO2's, Bilstein 7100 Remote Reservoir Race Bypass Shocks, 6" Spring lift, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, FlowMaster Exhaust
Amber_Murder's Daily Driver.
-2005 White GMC Sierra 3500 6.6 Duramax, Dually, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG Commercial T/A's, Rancho RS9000XL Shocks, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, Banks Monster Exhaust
Chris_Murder's Daily Driver.

Last edited by Chris_Murder; 06-24-2014 at 05:11 AM.
Chris_Murder is offline  
Old 06-24-2014, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 408
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_Murder View Post
do you have the factory ends on your battery cables with the factory cable covers?
The black plastic snap covers with the hole in the top? Those are still present and accounted for. The split loom tubing is still on the positive cable. I did replace the terminal on the negative cable, though.

Quote:
How about the fibermat battery sleeve blanket?
The heat shield that slides down over the top? Don't have it. But then there wasn't one there when I bought the car; maybe the dealer removed it. This car is I believe an early '96 (it came with a '95 type tranny pan; I know, because the '96 filter wouldn't fit so I had to go back for a '95 just to finish the fluid change the first time I did it).
If the battery shield was supposed to be on the early '96, well then add that to the list of items not present -- I don't consider it MIA since it wasn't on the car when I bought it new off the lot.

Quote:
Factory skid plate/air director?
Are you referring to the bumper valance panel? Mine still has that and the radiator air deflector panel that goes behind it.

I can post pics of the parts in question if it's really so incredible that a '96 still has them. Frankly, I find it incredible that most of these cars don't still have them. Do people throw them in the trash after they remove them? Don't bother checking up on mechanics to see that they've reinstalled everything? I'm guessing this is mostly a problem with multi-owner vehicles, where many different hands have done many different things to them.

Quote:
Does it eat you up at night having damaged locking clips on the harness or would it eat you up more if you replaced them because it wouldn't be factory?
Oh c'mon now. Not having OEM harness "T" anchors (the ones taped into the harness) doesn't bother me, because I secured those points via other means. Those anchors can be ordered, though, they're available just like the Christmas tree fasteners that hold up the valance panel (I bought a bag of 50 of those suckers because they get destroyed so often during oil changes, etc.).
Apples vs. oranges here -- one (the plug) is [ostensibly] meant to protect a critical piece of machinery; the other (T anchor) is, from what I can tell, mostly meant to prevent annoying rattles.

I never said the car shouldn't be touched after it rolls off the factory floor. I did say I try to keep it whole and OEM, which means using new OEM replacements when available and practicable.
I simply haven't yet run into many parts that I couldn't obtain replacements for. That's one thing I like about Fords. If OEM isn't available (or priced for the sane), usually an aftermarket equivalent is. Am I going to spend $300 on an OEM suspension part when I can use a $60 Moog equivalent (or better) instead? No, because I don't have money to burn (I'd be driving a collection of brand new, expensive vehicles if I did).
I've had vehicles before that you couldn't get a simple part for if it meant saving your life -- this was before the internet, though, and parts hunting was a great deal more difficult back then.

Quote:
Are you one of those guys that likes factory overspray on classic cars?
Overspray is not good. Oversprayers should work on their masking skills.
Mine does need new paint, though, and obviously it can't literally have new factory paint. I'll try to find a pro to apply clear that's at least as tough as factory -- may need airplane paint, but... Why bother with the hassle of disassembly, prep and downtime just to shoot it with a cheap finish that will last 2 years?


Now back on topic, here's the deal with the plug folks:
I called a helpful Ford parts guy who confirmed the eBay listing I linked to is wrong.
The F3AZ-6C070-AA is indeed the UPPER block (valley rear) hole plug.
The F65Z-6C070-AB is the LOWER block inspection hole plug.
Also, the "5" in the part number indicates half year (i.e., F65 = 1996.5).

I called Autozone, O'reilly, Advance and Napa. None of them had a cross for the OEM number and none of them had ever seen any generic valley hole plugs. I thought with the number of vehicles using the same blocks, surely aftermarket plugs of various dimensions would be on the market, but apparently NOT. Yeah yeah, I know I know.. you're saying "Gee, maybe the reason why they're not readily available aftermarket is because... they're NOT NEEDED!" Maybe not, maybe so. At any rate, 5 bucks isn't much for peace of mind -- not ordering off eBay, btw, and will probably order other parts to make shipping cost per item more reasonable.

I'll post pics of the OEM part when I get it, along with dimensions. Maybe that info will come in handy if/when someone else wants to replace theirs (quite unnecessarily I'm sure!).

Last edited by Torque; 06-25-2014 at 09:45 AM. Reason: air deflector description
Torque is offline  
Old 06-24-2014, 07:22 PM
Humble MN12 Genius
Super Moderator
 
XR7-4.6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Roselle IL
Posts: 16,539
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to XR7-4.6
I like factory overspray on classic cars

-Matt
XR7-4.6 is offline  
Old 07-08-2014, 02:25 AM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 408
The part arrived. There's misinformation out there that this plug is made of rubber (as in a typical cable grommet) which dries up and becomes brittle.
It's definitely plastic, thin-walled and flexible enough when new to pop it in.

I'm glad I went ahead and ordered it, as I'm experiencing a profound sense of relief now that my AZ hole is properly plugged.

The fit is snug all around, confirmed by flicking the outer lip with a fingernail on the top, sides and bottom.
This is obviously not designed to drain fluid from the valley at any significant rate. A burst heater tube or otherwise major leak would take a long time to drain around this plug, especially when new. However, the design of the inner lip suggests that the bottom (flat edge) may be intended to take in coolant, albeit very slowly.

Now, as promised, more than you ever wanted to know about my AZ hole and plug:

Torque is offline  
Old 07-08-2014, 12:29 PM
Moderator &amp;amp; Teksid Whore
Super Moderator
 
guitar maestro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Laredo, Texas
Age: 39
Posts: 11,961
Send a message via MSN to guitar maestro Send a message via Yahoo to guitar maestro
We don't need to know about your obsession with having your azhole plugged with some kind of plastic, man. This is a family oriented forum! jk

Now you can finally put this to rest.
guitar maestro is offline  
Old 07-08-2014, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 408
Yup, on to bigger and better things -- like finishing the actual PI intake swap.

Unless someone has a question about this one part that wasn't answered by the slideshow post or disagrees with something I've posted about it, it's a done deal as far as I'm concerned and I wouldn't whine about the thread being closed at this point.
Oh wait a sec, can we go back and edit posts within a closed thread? I may need to fix something Photobucket screws up (e.g., if they ditch their slideshow during another "upgrade").
Torque is offline  
Old 07-08-2014, 01:52 PM
Moderator &amp;amp; Teksid Whore
Super Moderator
 
guitar maestro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Laredo, Texas
Age: 39
Posts: 11,961
Send a message via MSN to guitar maestro Send a message via Yahoo to guitar maestro
yea you should be able to, just can't reply. PI intake swap can be done in one afternoon, so git er dun. People have been doing PI intake swaps for more than a decade without so much of a worry about part #s as you are. Just called up my parts source, and ordered the parts from the correct year/platform, done. Nothing to it really.
guitar maestro is offline  
 

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the TCCoA Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Thread Tools



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome