Originally Posted by Mr.Thunderbird
Ok, I've had my 95 Tbird 4.6 for a little more than a year. It's my weekend toy. I'm not into drag racing or racing anyone really, but what I am into is hugging the curves of the Blue Ridge Parkway or the curves of West Virginia's byways. So far the car is pretty much all I need, but I do want a few things.
1) Trans gets mushy and whinny when it gets hot. In shop now for repairs and B&M Shift kit for the Street/strip mod. Suggestions on a shifter for this application. On most mountain roads I hold the trans in 2 and run rpms from 2 to 3500.
2) Change to stiffer neoprene sway bar bushings front and back for a flatter turn.
3) Shed some weight. Any help here is appreciated. I am already planning to remove the rear seats and light weight carpet the area.
The engine is stock 88,000 miles running good. I swapped out the 195 degree thermostat for a 180. I hooked up a 40 amp relay at the battery direct into the hi side of the cooling fan. The computer won't turn on the fan until 195 so I use the cooling fan override switch in the ashtray to keep it super cool in mountain curves or city traffic.
I opened up the air filter box by removing the horn/silencer for direct cool air induction. K&N filter. I noticed a power increase with the Royal Purple HPS 5w20 that I now use. That's it so for for the engine. Original plugs will be changed soon.
Not looking for a rocket, but if any of you guys know of any inexpensive tricks or mods, I'd be really interested to hear.
That's about it. Like I said, I don't race, but I do like to straighten out a curve or two a few times a summer.
Not aware of any aftermarket shifters for the 4r70W, since you can select all four gears already. The Jmod would have been a better, cheaper alternative than the B&M, but run what you brung.
I would also run a 0w30 oil vs the 5w20. I prefer the lubrication of the 30 weight oil over the 20, the only reason Ford switched to 5w20 was to get .5mpg improvement.
A transmission cooler would be a good idea, plate style, up in front of the AC Condenser. Make sure your transmission guy puts real Mercon V in.
For corner carving, here's what I've got. I wouldn't call it "cheap" but here's what I recommend...
Brakes. Either go with the PBR swap (1999-2004 Mustang GT calipers on our rotors, a little grinding, and they work beautifully. For even more braking, swap over to 13" Mustang Cobra calipers and rotors. You'll need to re-drill the rotors for our bolt pattern, or extend the holes 1/8", but it's easy. For the Cobras, get the rear caliper relocation brackets and do the cobra rear rotors too.
Suspension... Vortgland springs, Tokiko Blues or Monroe GR-2 shocks, shock/strut tower braces front and rear, Super Coupe or Addco front and rear anti-sway bars. Do not get the "biggest" Addco units, as they are overkill and add way too much stiffness, which will pull a wheel up in cornering, reducing overall traction. Get something apporximating the 1989 SC sway bars. Bushings, bushings, bushings! Replace any worn bushings with good ones. Good alignment too.
Then get a traction lok rear end, mark 8 aluminum diff housing, and 3.73:1 gears, and a one piece aluminum driveshaft.
PI heads, intake, and cams will wake the motor up, along with a tune.
97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com
, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.