Harmonic balancer broke today - TCCoA Forums
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-14-2016, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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Harmonic balancer broke today

I poked around the forum while waiting for a tow and couldn't find much. I have a 97 cougar with 4.6; the pulley on the harmonic balancer fell off today. Looks like the rubber between the pulley and the inner balancer let go, the outer ring fell off. I'm looking for some direction here. Going to have to tackle this over the weekend. Thanks.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-14-2016, 10:57 PM
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Not much to say; replace it with a new one.

I'd avoid a Dorman if possible.

For instance, RockAuto lists the ATP for under $40; all the way up to a Dayco Race Performance for $170.

It's a pain to do, but it's doable.

I'd HIGHLY recommend doing the seal also to keep it from leaking oil when you get done.

Note: Just to think about ... if you're going to do the tensioners, the cam chains, the water pump et al, this is a good time to do it.

Also, while apart, I'd do the oil filter adapter gasket (I mean, you'll have enough off the front to help make it easier.)

But none of that is NECESSARY to do the balancer.

RwP

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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-14-2016, 11:53 PM
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Rent a harmonic balancer puller from a parts store, and pull the fan off the radiator for more space, pull the rubber block plug at the bottom driver side rear of the engine and put a screwdriver through one of the flexplate holes to keep the crank from rotating. It's pretty easy. Install you use the bolt to drive the new balancer back on, you may need to tap it forward a bit with a rubber mallet to get it in the crank threads.

-Matt
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help there. The Chilton manual doesn't explain much. Do I need to replace the bolt? I read some are a stretch type (not sure what it's actually called) and should not be reused.
RalphP: Crankshaft seal? Like this: National 482041N - Oil Seal | O'Reilly Auto Parts
Also, what is the "oil filter adapter gasket"
I'm going to replace the water pump, thanks for reminding me on that one.
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 09:06 AM
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Bolt is reusable as far as I know. Get a LONG wrench, or a 1/2 drive with a pipe on it. It's on there very tightly. The puller gets it off very easily, the big deal is the amount of room you have.

The Oil Filter adapter gasket is a gasket that sits under the part the oil filter bolts to. They get old and are prone to just letting go, leaving lots of oil all over the place. While you're in there, it's a few 13mm bolts, they're on tight, and very hard to reach. Pop them off (after you drain the coolant and oil unless you want a mess), clean up the mating surface, put the new gasket on (they're cheap, felpro are good, you don't have the oil cooler) and button it up.

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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 09:17 AM
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Don't have to replace the water pump with this job unless it's leaking, totally unrelated. That can be done later from above by only removing the upper rad hose on one side, belt, and coolant.

Al

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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by T6Rocket View Post
Don't have to replace the water pump with this job unless it's leaking, totally unrelated. That can be done later from above by only removing the upper rad hose on one side, belt, and coolant.

Al
My thought here is I have no idea how old the water pump is, probably the original, so while I'm in there might as well do that too. I'll see what it all looks like, But since it's easy from above, I would tend to agree with you and hold off.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 11:43 AM
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My thought here is I have no idea how old the water pump is, probably the original, so while I'm in there might as well do that too. I'll see what it all looks like, But since it's easy from above, I would tend to agree with you and hold off.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 12:00 PM
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Agreed. Just look around it to see if there's any coolant streaks running down the timing cover to see if it's been leaking from the water pump weep hole, if not it's fine. Same with timing stuff, those are half million mile components(these have the good tensioners and guides, unlike the later Tupperware ones of the 2000s). Definitely not a while you're there task on a Modular. Ralph is accustomed to ye olde tyme 5.0s

-Matt
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, you just saved me a couple bucks and some time....
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 02:39 PM
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Agreed. Just look around it to see if there's any coolant streaks running down the timing cover to see if it's been leaking from the water pump weep hole, if not it's fine. Same with timing stuff, those are half million mile components(these have the good tensioners and guides, unlike the later Tupperware ones of the 2000s). Definitely not a while you're there task on a Modular. Ralph is accustomed to ye olde tyme 5.0s
The reason to plan on it at the same time is to avoid having to remove the radiator AGAIN *grins*

And you plan on it and the timing chains at the same time since you get to remove the HB to get to the timing chain cover to get to the timing chain.

But it's not necessary, no.

RwP

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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 05:13 PM
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You don't have to remove the Radiator, the balancer puller clears it with room to spare just removing the electric fan assembly.

-Matt
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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Rent a harmonic balancer puller from a parts store, and pull the fan off the radiator for more space, pull the rubber block plug at the bottom driver side rear of the engine and put a screwdriver through one of the flexplate holes to keep the crank from rotating. It's pretty easy. Install you use the bolt to drive the new balancer back on, you may need to tap it forward a bit with a rubber mallet to get it in the crank threads.
where is the block plug? Do I get to it from underneath or above. I'm not able to find it yet.
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 05:50 PM
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Underneath

-Matt
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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Found it. Got the HB replaced. going to put the rest of the car back together tomorrow. Thanks all.
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 10:28 PM
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You don't have to remove the Radiator, the balancer puller clears it with room to spare just removing the electric fan assembly.
That's good to know on the 4.6.

Alas, for fat fingered me *grins* that's not true on the 5.0HO; not even sure it'd be true on the 3.8.

(Isn't even true for the 3.9 in my Dakota!)

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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-16-2016, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
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A pic just to show you the room you have.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2016-09-15 19.25.53.jpg (3.19 MB, 17 views)
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-16-2016, 05:13 PM
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The radiator is easy to do if you had to pull it anyways, to segue off topic, since I think OP has got his car about done.
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-17-2016, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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She is done. Put her back together last night, even replaced a set of hinge pins on the DS door. I'll take her for a test drive later today just to make sure. Thanks for all the help.
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-18-2016, 12:38 PM
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Where did you purchase your hinges?

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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-18-2016, 02:09 PM
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Where did you purchase your hinges?
The PINS are available from Dorman; there are two sets, one is for a single hinge and has part number 38438, the other is for a DOOR (two sets), and has part number 703-270 . Both can be had at most auto parts stores or at a lot of the mail order places *cough*RockAuto*cough*

He mentioned the hinge pins, not the hinges.

There's a good write up at MN12tech.com - I THINK it's also posted here, but don't have an easy link to it here.

If you're doing the lower hinge pins also (and those wear faster than the upper!), then you can also get the roller kit; it's Dorman 38350 .

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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-18-2016, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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I picked up the pins from O'Reilly Auto Parts. A warning.... I picked up some online that used a lock nut instead of a C-clip. Stay away from those; there is not enough room to tighten the nut
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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-18-2016, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-20-2016, 11:33 AM
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Back on topic, this thread made me aware of the Dayco Race Performance 8-rib harmonic balancer. Appreciate that lead, and I ordered one for my car. Previously I only knew about the Innovators West unit, which is crazy big money. The Dayco cost less than half as much!

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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-20-2016, 04:25 PM
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To get back off topic. Those numbers in that article are still good?

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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-20-2016, 06:34 PM
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If the Ford numbers aren't good anymore, the current Dorman numbers are 38438 (for one hinge) and 703-270 (for two hinges; think for a door) for the pin and bushings; 38445 for the door striker; and if you really want to be complete, they list 38350 for the lower hinge detent roller (turns out my door not staying open was due to the bottom hinge being wallowed out; when I replace it in a few, I'll probably go ahead and replace the detent roller also. But it also looks like it's not THAT bad a shape for the OEM one.)

(Just found on Dorman Products - Home Page by querying them for my 1991; should be the same for any year, but feel free to double check the part numbers there.)

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