Yanking my Mark VIII, where should I cut the harness - TCCoA Forums
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2017, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
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Yanking my Mark VIII, where should I cut the harness

I'm going to be pulling the motor in the coming weeks for an install into my 94 tbird. Where should I cut the harness to maintain as much as possible and what things not bolted directly to the motor should be brought with it? I am going to use the tbird ecu/harness and griffen radiator.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2017, 12:46 PM
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Why cut it? Just disconnect them. With the Tbird EEC harness it will be easier to modify the stock Tbird harness than it would to make the Mark harness work, which has a different location for the main connector.

Remember the Thermostat housing assembly. That's probably the easiest part to forget when pulling a 4V
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2017, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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Are you saying disconnect the bulkhead plug or each sensor? I plan to use the bird harness and new I needed to extend a couple. Just thought it would be faster to cut
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2017, 02:09 PM
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Yes, disconnect the bulk connector and all of the sensors, it's not as hard as it looks and you won't save much time by simply cutting. Having the complete uncut harness to use will help you lay out the modified one.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2017, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by coggonobrien View Post
I'm going to be pulling the motor in the coming weeks for an install into my 94 tbird. Where should I cut the harness to maintain as much as possible and what things not bolted directly to the motor should be brought with it? I am going to use the tbird ecu/harness and griffen radiator.

Thanks!
I wouldn't cut anything just disconnect the engine harness at the plug. Also you probably wanna keep the fuel lines intact they may come in handy.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2017, 06:17 PM
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Cutting won't save you any time, and will cause more issues as you're trying to lay things out as posted above. Just unplug everything, it's easy.

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2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2017, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulldog View Post
I wouldn't cut anything just disconnect the engine harness at the plug. Also you probably wanna keep the fuel lines intact they may come in handy.
How far back on the fuel line?
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2017, 06:32 PM
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The filter area, there are disconnects for the vapor and return lines along side it

-Matt
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2017, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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Is the fuel system different on the mark?
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2017, 06:47 PM
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They're both return systems, AFAIK the lines between the filter and tank are identical so it'll be plug and play.

What intake manifold will you be using?

-Matt
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2017, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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Leaning towards 99 to 02 cobra for centrifugal charger options
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2017, 07:02 PM
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In that case you may me better off using 96-98 Cobra fuel rails and 96/97 V8 fuel lines

-Matt
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2017, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry I meant 96 to 98 manifold
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-19-2017, 08:08 AM
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Yea I dunno about that when I did mine years ago I used a 98 mark manifold.

I did exactly what Matt said and just used the front sections of fuel lines.

If you are going to put a supercharger on it anyway. I would just build my fuel system while the engine is out it's gonna be a lot easier to run all of the lines and get your regulator mounted.
But I do understand that is a cost permitting type thing lines and fittings are expensive.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-25-2017, 03:31 AM
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I'm going to be pulling the motor in the coming weeks for an install into my 94 tbird. Where should I cut the harness to maintain as much as possible and what things not bolted directly to the motor should be brought with it? I am going to use the tbird ecu/harness and griffen radiator.

Thanks!
coggonobrien let me know how you like that radiator I thought about getting the whole group of stuff they offer.


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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-25-2017, 05:59 AM Thread Starter
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I like mine, I've had it for probably 13 years now.
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-26-2017, 03:08 PM
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My suggestions:

Get the throttle cable, the exhaust manifolds, and the motor mounts.

Airbox and tube, and the sensors in them.

Take the oil pressure switch/sensor out and throw it away. It's opposite of ours; shorted with NO pressure.

Don't allow anyone to pick up the engine by the coolant crossover.

Get the TC, if the mileage is low on the mark. it makes a cheap spare.

The radiator Fan is a good score; I hope to be selling a driver for it soon.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-27-2017, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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What are the proper lift points? My plan is to yank the motor and transmission together. I will be cutting fenders/radiator support and anything else in the way since the since the car is getting scrapped anyway.
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-27-2017, 12:57 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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There are two 12mm bolt holes on the side of the heads that fit two factory brackets.

I have used the 8mm bolts at the front and rear of the valley, and a load leveller, but if you break one off, you'll hate life.

If you're cutting everything away, I wouldn't lift it out.

Brace the engine cradle/subframe in place, unbolt it from the chassis (6 or 8 E-torx bolts), and use the puller to lift the car body off the engine/wheels/transmission.
You can roll it on the wheels using a tranny jack as the third leg, iirc.

Look at Matt's thread; he used spacers on the bolts to drop the engine a bit, and I believe there are pix of them.


These are the brackets:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7005/6...ca830ab6bf.jpg

They're the lower two brackets; the other tool is for a 3.8l engine.

That's from here:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...=142820&page=2

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.


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Truth Isn't Truth. - Rudy Giuliani, 2018 Award winner, “Most Outrageous Diversion” by MSNBC for this quote

Last edited by Grog6; 08-27-2017 at 01:03 PM.
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