Main thing about PI head swaps is the bump in compression you get. A little bit better power but not really worth the effort. PI intake and PI cams that are properly degreed and with a tune will get you the best bang for buck. And they have aftermarket NPI cams thatll bump up power even more.
Before that though, a better torque converter and 3.73 rear gears will wake up the car more. 3700lbs so they need what help they can get to start moving from a stand still.
Another thing. PI intakes and cams make the most difference above 5000rpm. Youll need a stamped trigger wheel, single piece crank timing gear, and an 11in Torque Converter (so youd need a better TC anyway). Reason why is because the cast wheels can fly apart, the two piece gears walk, and the TC balloons and presses into a bunch of things that shouldnt be pressed into. None of these things are good.
Welcome to TCCoA!
First: Stacie, 1996 Tbird LX, mild build NPI engine, PI cams and intake, Long tube headers, Jmod.
Second: Ellie, 1989 Tbird SC, r̶e̶s̶t̶o̶r̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶b̶e̶ ̶n̶e̶w̶ ̶d̶a̶i̶l̶y̶. off the deep end
Third: 1997 Dodge Ram 1500, thirsty daily.
Fourth: 1990 Tbird SC, GT40 5.0 mated to m5r2, BBK long tubes, motor out the hood, drift car.