Oil pan replacement - dropping K memeber - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-30-2003, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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Oil pan replacement - dropping K memeber

Ok, I cant find any definate instructions.
How hard is it to drop the K-member.
Whats hard, K-member or engine pull.
I'm ticked because now I cant drive my Cougar, the leak got worse when i brush the rust off and was going to JB Weld it.

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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-30-2003, 02:43 PM
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I have to pull the motor with my toy so I can not give you an answer there. However, I say get a mark VIII Oil Pan.

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-30-2003, 02:49 PM
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I beleive you need some female torx sockets to remove the K-member. You should do any front suspension work at the same time.




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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-30-2003, 02:51 PM
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I've researched both lifting and dropping and I think the easiest way would be to drop the "K" Member.

Here's why I say that: To lift the engine, you have to disconnect almost all the connections. The radiator, power steering, A/C, etc. lines have to be disconnected along with some wiring.

To drop the “K” Member, all you should have to disconnect is the power steering lines to the rack. (And while it out, put in an Addco sway bar. ) I don’t know about the suspension setup as I’ve researched this to coincide with a new suspension anyway. (Sorry)

But, I’ve never done either, so this is only an opinion. Someone should be able to chime in and let us know which way is best.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-30-2003, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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My suspension's pretty good. I'm gonna leave that go.
What am I looking at for a time frame to drop the K-member, switch pans and put it back together.
Also what's a good spot to put a support beam to hold the engine up.
Between the fenders? Also where should I hook the beam to to support the motor. I've pulled older motors before but not a newer motor with so much aluminum.

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-30-2003, 03:10 PM
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I have one of those support beams from Harbor Freight and I had planned on hooking it up to where the alternator mounts. But I wanted to put some type of swivel so it wouldn't put the tabs in a bind.

Where I planned to put the cross brace is just on the inside of the fenders. With the hood up, it would be where the fenders mount.

But again, that is just my plan. I haven't actually done it yet. This idea might not be the best way to go.

If you do your's let me know how it went.

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-30-2003, 03:50 PM
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When JT and I did my rod bearings we used a piece of wood and a jack by the tranny end of the motor to help it out...removed the alternator and hooked up the engine hoist there to hold the motor up.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-30-2003, 03:52 PM
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Oh and before you start get an E18 inverted torx bit for the k-member bolts. I recommend getting it before you start since they don't ever seem to be the easiest things to find.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-30-2003, 05:12 PM
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I need to drop mine for the header install and I'm so not looking foward to doing that JOB. I was never a big fan of having the fenders support the weight so I say do it the hoist way like C explained.

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-30-2003, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I'm not looking forward to this either.
E18 inv. torx, torque, and strandard sockets/wrenches and other standard tools are all ill need right? No other special crap.
Now about the Mark pan. Is it aluminum? What has to be modified to make it fit. I've heard something about the power steering or tranny lines or something, but havnt got a definate answer.
Oh, and will I need an alignment after it's put back together?
Sorry for all the questions, but I havn't dropped any subframes before.

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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-30-2003, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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I dont know how good of an idea this is, but my dad kinda thinks I should do it.
Would it be safe to weld a piece of metal over the pan, (the hole is on the bottom).
Of course I would get as much oil out as I could, but would it cause problems or be dangerous to weld it on the vehicle. I will not trust JB-Weld but it seems to me that if it's safe that a welded patch would be the cheapest way to go. (covered with POR-15 of course)
any opinions appreciated.

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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-01-2003, 06:45 AM
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Sure, weld it on. When it does not work and your oil pours out all over the ground while going down the road at 70 MPH please do not think of us. Wouldn't it be better to do it right? If you must weld it then take the pan off and clean it first! I still think a new pan is the best choice.

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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-01-2003, 07:23 AM
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I say screw it and just use some duct tape

Seriously, if you don't feel comfortable doing this job then have a shop do it for you.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-01-2003, 07:48 AM
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A 12 point 9/16th socket works fine if you can't get the right socket for the eight engine cradle bolts.

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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-01-2003, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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It's not the comfort part, I feel confident I can do it.
But I don't wanna
Well, i figured if I could clean it up real good and have a nice patch TIG'ed over it and some POR15 over it it would be fine.
My dad just thought I should do it that way.
He was checking shops already but I told him I'm doing it.
I guess i'm, in for some fun.

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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-02-2003, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, when I'm taking the steering stuff apart (tie-rod ends and such) do I need any new fasteners (torque-to-yield stuff) or is all the old stuff fine
also where would I get a seal for the power steering line, my chilton's said something about it.
Last question (hopefully) what am I gonna have to do to bleed the air out of the power steering after I put it back together.

My dad seemed insistent on me taking the easy route and patching it so i had to ask. I told him I'm not getting a used pan and I'm not repairing it. He also called up a couple shots about it. I'm not dumping an extra $250 into this.
I just ordered the pan from fordparts.com so hopefully itll get here soon (with July 4th weekedn and all)

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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-02-2003, 04:47 PM
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it's just one bolt to take out and you're done with the steering part.

the seal you are talking about is a must because your old one WILL be trashed. It's like a dollar or so from Ford..i'll look up the part number..I wrote it down somewhere.

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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-02-2003, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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Cool, thanks
do you think I could leave the upper controlarms and struts connected, it doesn't look like I need That much room. I guess I'll find out though.

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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-02-2003, 10:05 PM
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I'd hate to be the front end tech doing the alignment on that puppy when it gets back together! Tell me more about this seal....is it the seal that goes between the power steering pump and the line that goes to the rack & pinion?

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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-03-2003, 12:22 AM
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Yes that's exactly what the seal is for....you can't miss it it's a little white piece of plastic that I stuck on hot water to soften up so it would fit on. Cake.

I had to take the front shocks off because the kmember wouldn't slide out with them on. It's two bolts to take those out...probably the easier part.
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post #21 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-03-2003, 12:30 AM Thread Starter
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I'm gonna try leaving them connected. I' should only have to lower the sub. about 4-6 inches, I'm hoping the suspension will give enough, but if it don't off they come.

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post #22 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-04-2003, 05:07 AM
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please take pictures
and tell us how it goes
ill will be doing a pan gasket here in the future

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post #23 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-05-2003, 11:03 AM
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Seal part number:
*388898*S-$1.03 from Ford
It takes approx 1 hour to drop the K-member,and it's not really bad at all.The only things that needs to be removed are the PS hoses,and the 1 bolt that retains the PS line to the radiator support.Disconnect the PS cooler hose,and the hose that threads into the PS pump,and you're ready to drop it.
Feel lucky?Then use the wrong tool for the job,and try a 9/16" socket..otherwise..just order the E-18 socket.I picked mine up from mytoolstore.com..
$8 for the socket.
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