Where to attach lift chains... - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-17-2003, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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Where to attach lift chains...

I'm preparing to re-install my engine with transmission attached. The Helms CD says there are special lift brackets that attach to each side of the head and that the chains should be attached there. I've seen the holes for these brackets on the heads and wondered what they are for. There are two of them, and they appear to be about 12-15mm in size. The intake and exhaust manifolds are installed on the engine, as is the wiring harness.

Is this the only way the engine should be lifted with all that weight on it? Is there another "safe" place to mount or attach chains for this operation? If I do use the brackets, will the two bolts on each aluminum head be strong enough to support the engine weight plus the transmission.?

Thanks...I'm waiting with trepidation about this install.....

Glen "RustyUL" Weldon

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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-17-2003, 09:15 AM
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Can't help you with where, but I know the lift brackets aren't available from Ford. I talked a while ago to Dan when he was at FiveStar and he said the brackets aren't available.

Good luck and let us know!

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-17-2003, 09:20 AM
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This topic has been discussed before.

Have you tried a search for this yet ?

I'm kinda busy right now, but will try and help later..................

I know Big Scott (Dr. Frankencougie) can answer this one.

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-17-2003, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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R.T.,

Yes, I did a search. Apparently, I don't know how to fine tune the search engine. I did come up with many threads, but none of them seemed very relevent.

A post from Dr. Frankencougie did come up, but it didn't specify where or how to lift the engine.

D.D.94,

I didn't want to buy the brackets anyway. I'm going to take some measurements off my engine and make a set from 1/4 steel plate. I work in a manufacturing facility and we have a toolroom, so I have access to steel, torch, and milling machines, and I know how to use them.

Thanks for your replies....

Glen "RustyUL" Weldon

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-17-2003, 09:33 AM
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Here is a response from Leland Jaboson, that was posted in the old TCCOA forums


"Yup theyre rotunda partz, and at 230 bucks a set (when I checked 6 months ago)youre better off just hooking a couple of bolts to a chain on a diagonal and hoisting her out.... lol "

EDIT: Here's another one from Jason Houston - old TCCOA forums

Well I did pull mine but I didn;t replace it with another one...... Put the same one back in. Really it should be the same any SOHC engine has all the same connections. For your info i pulled mine out, it sat in the garage for about a year, Wasn;t going to put it back in, doing lots of different mods to the car and was going to go with a new 99+ engine or a DOHC engine of some sort. But We sold our house and the car had to be out of the garage!!!! So in about 3 days had it all back together running like it always had been.... Remember this was a year later, all wires had been removed all parts were on the shelves of my garage, only an empty shell car no engine or tranny in it....

Oh yeah BTW did i mention that i did finish one of my mods to the Car before I had to hurrily put it back together......... I did manage to put a t-45 in it.

But thats another story.....

The only thing I had was an engine hoist and a floor jack.... me and a Buddy


Just some tips..... I always fine it easier to remove the engine and tranny all it once, but that is due to my limitations of the car being stuck on the ground, If I had a lift or a Pit I would keep the tranny in, in my case it all had to go anyhow..... Radiator has to go of course, i also removed all the front clip accesories.... Be sure to remove all the wires to avoid having the engine swinging in the air and have one wire holding it to the car...... I had this happen at a bad time, actuall just took a pair of snips and cut it immediately, easier to splice it back later..... but just becarfull.... One last thing if you pull both at the same time do yourself a favor and take the top starter bolt OFF once you get it all pulled out... it is a Pain in the A$$ to get to when everything is in the car.. Not hard if yo got two people with flashlights and a 3 foot extension.... i have that but you get my point

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Last edited by Rolling-Thunder; 07-17-2003 at 09:38 AM.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-17-2003, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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I'm just concerned about lifting the entire weight of the tranny and completely assembled engine, suspended by one bolt threaded into each aluminum head. I would feel much more comfortable with a steel bracket attached to each head with two bolts and lifting with that. They would look something like this:


Solid model created with Solidworks 2003

Glen "RustyUL" Weldon

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-17-2003, 10:22 AM
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Never go under it, Use a high quality hoist, leveler and chains and be very careful.

-Scott
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-17-2003, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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Only one problem with that Dr., My intake is installed, which is one of the primary reasons for installing the engine w/tranny attached. I can't get to the upper two bellhousing bolts with the manifold attached and the tranny in the car! Also, the EGR valve, IAC valve, DPFE sensor and manifold tube are already attached and would get in the way.

Have you ever used the brackets attached to the heads as the Helms CD suggests?
(I just re-read this post...it sounds sarcastic. I assure you I'm not trying to be sarcastic. I realize you have much more experience at this than I do!)

Glen "RustyUL" Weldon

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-17-2003, 10:33 AM
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I don't like to install the intake till after I drop the motor in because the chains can damage the intake. I have not used the plates.

-Scott
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-17-2003, 11:50 AM
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Why not take the intake back off then put it back on once the motor is in? Otherwise looks like your going to have to chance it.

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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-17-2003, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
I can't get to the upper two bellhousing bolts with the manifold attached and the tranny in the car! Also, the EGR valve, IAC valve, DPFE sensor and manifold tube are already attached and would get in the way.
As I said...I do have a good reason!

I've just finished the drawing for the bracket to send to the shop. It's 4 7/16 wide by 6 tall an 1/4 thick (I would have preffered 3/8...but none available) with a full radius at one end with a 1 1/2 hole in the center for the hook attachment. Also has two 5/8 holes 1 15/16 apart at the bottom. These holes are for the M12 x 1.5 x 20 bolts that screw into the head at the left front and right rear. (I've studied up over lunch and did some measuring!)

It looks as though there will be about 3/4 - 1" of washers required behind the bracket to make it bolt in level. This lenght would have to be added to the bolt length to make it about 40mm long. Looks like it will work like a champ!

Here's the drawing....


Glen "RustyUL" Weldon

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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-18-2003, 12:19 AM
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I havent pulled an engine out lately and not out a tbird. (maybe a couple old 4 bangers.. haha) but when you make this bracket, and use it, you are going to have to make sure those holes are level with each other and that nothing about those holes sticks out past the bracket. If that made sense. And that theres room for that bracket. If not, that bracket isnt going to sit flush up against the engine causing some problems. Also, you might want to make a template/sample out of some cardboard and try to bolt up on it to make sure those measurements are going to work perfect. It would be sad if you had them made without testing cheap prototype first and be off by 1/16" and those screws striping out the threads or binding or whatever. And to also make sure nothing is in the way like i explained up above. Just reminding you. I am sure you already plan to do that.

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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-18-2003, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
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Well, thanks for the advice. I wasn't going to have them made, I was going to (did) make them myself.

It is required to put washers between the head and the bracket to make sure you are tightening the bracket perpendicular to the axis of the bolt. The requires the use of a longer bolt than specified in the Ford manual.....about 40mm long instead of 20. The brackets fit just fine, but I may have to bend them upward to fit inside the engine compartment when chains are attached, but I won't know this until I start to install the engine.

Glen "RustyUL" Weldon

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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-30-2003, 05:37 PM
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Here's a shot of a new 4.6 with what I assume are lift brackets.



BTW How are you doing with the swap? I am planning a swap later this month.

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Last edited by bigbird; 08-30-2003 at 05:43 PM.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-30-2003, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
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It wasn't a swap, just a rebuild. Engine has been in the car for about a month...maybe a bit less. Got about 2000+ miles on it so far. Purrs like a kitten. Waiting for the tranny cooler to arrive.

Yeah, those brackets look like they would certainly do the job! Mine weren't that elaborate...explains the high dealer price!

My brackets worked great, but I got the hole spacing wrong on the drawing. I have it way too narrow. I would say the brackets are the way to go. Everything else just gets in the way! Make sure you remove them before you run the car. The clearances between the engine bay and engine are small and one of the brackets was vibrating on the shock tower. It caused all sorts of problems with rough idle....probably ground issues...I don't know. Went away when I removed the bracket.

Using a leveler like in the Frankencougie photo would be a great help. I didn't have one! Good luck

Glen "RustyUL" Weldon

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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-31-2003, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by rustyul
My brackets worked great, but I got the hole spacing wrong on the drawing. I have it way too narrow.

I made some brackets and used the hole spacing from your drawing and it fits great. I discovered that the thread size on the GT engine is 14 mm, not 12. Haven't checked the tbird yet. I bought a folding crane/engine hoist for 199.00 CDN and it has a leveller with it. Should make the job somewhat easier.

T-bird is gone:
2005 Black Mustang GT, Whipple HO kit 11# boost, with 48# inectors, JDM Tune, SpyderShaft, Fays2 Watt's Link. 436RWHP/412RWTQ. Best so far [email protected] on 255/50 18 NittoE. Need MT streets.

Last edited by bigbird; 10-01-2003 at 09:51 PM.
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