what to upgrade, replace during head swap and with what??? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-18-2003, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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what to upgrade, replace during head swap and with what???

I'm pulling my engine ('96 4.6L Romeo) out to swap heads (renegade NPI's) and headers (kooks) in a couple of weeks.

The car has 113,000mi, but due to our plastic intake manifold, Ford rebuilt or replaced the block at 30k, so the engine has about 83,000mi. Due to a second manifold crack, I now have the upgrade manifold.

Eventually I plan to either rebuild the bottom end or buy a built short block (renegade) and may go with either max compression N/A or, more likely, low compression and max SC boost, but that's down the road. For now I'm gonna run N/A with massaged NPI's and PI cams...

For this head/header swap, I intend to use ARP head studs, a one-piece crank sprocket and steel pulse wheel.

My question is:

While the engine is down and apart, are there other parts I should upgrade/replace now, or should I wait until I do the bottom end???

I'm thinking:

timing chains???
timing sprockets???
water pump???
oil pump???

I assume the above will bolt on to the new short block??? Should I do all, or some of the above?? is there more I should consider??? why??? and do I replace with OEM or is there something better out there???

Please don't tell me to scrap the NPI heads and go with PI's.. that decision (for better or worse) is already made and the heads are on the way. NPI's fit into the "grand plan."

I just want to know what else I should consider doing while the engine is on the stand... It may be some time before I do the bottom end... unless, of course it gives out sooner....

All input will be appreciated, some may be acted upon, some shelved for now, some may even be ignored, but if you have experiences/opinions I'd like to hear them...

thanks

96 GoldBird

'96 T-Bird LX 4.6L Alive & well & living in S. Florida

N/A:
Renegade NPI heads/Comp Cams; OEM intake manifold; Bolt-ons
245 rwhp; 13.713 @ 99.35 (Commerce, GA - November 2003)


BLOWN: Renegade NPI heads; Renegade shortblock; Intercooled T-Trim; some other stuff
Pump Gas Numbers - 547 rwhp / 525 ft.lbs; Best Time - 11.388 @ 118.68 (Commerce, GA - November 2007)
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-18-2003, 11:07 AM
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Definitely chains and chain guides it's cheap insurance while you/we have it apart.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-18-2003, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by timb
Definitely chains and chain guides it's cheap insurance while you/we have it apart.
I guess we can talk about it tonite (weather permitting)... any reason to go with Melling or some other aftermarket.. or go with OEM??? or does Ford make a racing variety or Cobra (2V) variety???

96 GoldBird

'96 T-Bird LX 4.6L Alive & well & living in S. Florida

N/A:
Renegade NPI heads/Comp Cams; OEM intake manifold; Bolt-ons
245 rwhp; 13.713 @ 99.35 (Commerce, GA - November 2003)


BLOWN: Renegade NPI heads; Renegade shortblock; Intercooled T-Trim; some other stuff
Pump Gas Numbers - 547 rwhp / 525 ft.lbs; Best Time - 11.388 @ 118.68 (Commerce, GA - November 2007)
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-18-2003, 12:30 PM
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That is best posed to someone like DrFrankencougie but I think he uses OEM

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-18-2003, 12:33 PM
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you already have a 190 pump right? why not go to 255 if you plan on putting an air compressor in. and higher volume pump...and Mk8 pan if and when you plan to pull the block. also, Rieth here in Boynton supposedly makes a modified pickup tube...my cell phone is in the car right now and im really liking the AC so ill give ya the number tonite at da track..

joseph




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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-18-2003, 01:29 PM
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No one else probally feels the same, but I would get a new crank bolt too (I got an ARP). I've seen quite a few people shred them (including myself), and even if it is a grade 8.8 bolt, you never know.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-18-2003, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by NRL
No one else probally feels the same, but I would get a new crank bolt too (I got an ARP). I've seen quite a few people shred them (including myself), and even if it is a grade 8.8 bolt, you never know.
Thanks I was just cruising Modular Performance and saw the ARP crank bolt...

What about the chains, sprockets, tensioners, oil/water pump??? yes, no, maybe??? upgrade, OEM, aftermarket.. ???

Obviously I'll look the stuff over to see any visible problems and replace accordingly, but with what????

96 GoldBird

'96 T-Bird LX 4.6L Alive & well & living in S. Florida

N/A:
Renegade NPI heads/Comp Cams; OEM intake manifold; Bolt-ons
245 rwhp; 13.713 @ 99.35 (Commerce, GA - November 2003)


BLOWN: Renegade NPI heads; Renegade shortblock; Intercooled T-Trim; some other stuff
Pump Gas Numbers - 547 rwhp / 525 ft.lbs; Best Time - 11.388 @ 118.68 (Commerce, GA - November 2007)
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-18-2003, 02:57 PM
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Well it just depends, you gotta look at it to really tell. My chains had 182,000 miles on them, and they wern't stretched at all, but that doesn't mean they wern't weakened. I had to upgrade my tensioners because 96 heads use a differerent type then the 94s, but the ones I took off the 94 were pretty much shot. Cam sprockets should be fine. The pulse wheel and crank sprocket are your call. If your gonna be getting a build shortblock in the future, your gonna end up buying that stuff again for that, so its your call. Water and oil pump don't need to be replaced.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-18-2003, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
What about the chains, sprockets, tensioners, oil/water pump??? yes, no, maybe??? upgrade, OEM, aftermarket.. ???
Replace the chains, tensioners, and guides while you have it apart. Cheap insurance.

Sprockets should be fine. Oil pump should be fine too. If you have Renegade build you a short block, have Jim toss in a Cobra Oil Pump when you do that then. Water pump can be done whenever, so don't bother now.

I'd also replace all the gaskets just for the sake of while it's apart, go ahead and do it. Even if most of the are reusable.

OEM will be fine for what you'll be doing, even with more power down the road. 90% of my engine is OEM.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-18-2003, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 96 GoldBird
I just want to know what else I should consider doing while the engine is on the stand... It may be some time before I do the bottom end... unless, of course it gives out sooner....
thanks
Since it might be some time until you take the motor to the next level, why not take the oil pan off to inspect/freshen the bottom. Spending a few hundred how on say ... new rod bearings and/or piston rings, maybe even a piston is, IMHO ...
1: Cheap insurance your motor will last until the next step.
2: Gives you an idea of how well your motor has, or has not been holding up.
3: Allows your motor to perform at it's best.
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